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#1 2010-08-02 04:00:58

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Loving The Alien

This is a word that has cropped up just recently, around distinctively American shoes and clothing.  So distinctive, in fact, that it is off the radar.  Team saddle bucks with dark jeans, Russell Street-style, and you are perhaps venturing into Jesmond's world too - or are the eyes drawn to the feet first?  The button-down collar is worn by just about everyone - but with a Brooks roll?  I think not.  Flat and lifeless, Lauren-style (or lack of).  The roll remains IMO alien, unnoticed by the average neb with his rugger-bugger attire and puddle over the Reeboks.  Thus is purity maintained.  I was taught by a master to always allow my stuff to take a step back - maybe more than one - and this means 'un-learning' as well as learning.  He taught me more about colour and texture, too.  This is truly Jesmond's area.  Attention to detail, to construction - meaning weave, for example.  I'd like to draw him into this.

 

#2 2010-08-02 05:52:18

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: Loving The Alien

Yes, i think this is about taking things a step further, clotheswise, RRP...


This is all quite timely, because i`ve just received those , recently ordered, wine coloured John Spencer penny loafers .What i like about these loafers is that they are a bit of a `fuck off` statement shoe(!). They do have a nice deep toe box ,in reality, and the reason i like them is because they then free one up to be as  subtle (or , perhaps, not...)  , as one likes, with the clothing stuff worn above.

I suppose i think that they could bring intrinsic and integral interest to ,ostensibly, duller clothes worn in combination up-top...

The deep toe box makes them look hard-core, old-school American ivy league, to my mind. Quite alien to European eyes.Most penny loafers these days seem over-styled or compromised, and wishy-washy in their design, to my eyes.

My thoughts are all a bit of a jumble, regards textural contrasts but , personally speaking, i`ve recently come to like and appreciate
merino wool together with , and in combination with, melton wool, aswell as  with cotton corduroy and with chambray and suede.

Watching The Sand Pebbles for the first time, recently, i noticed that McQueen was wearing a black (at a guess - though could have been `darkest navy`) undershirt, underneath a l/s chambray work shirt.

I believe 1966 has a liking for merino wool undershirts and i think that the undershirt in the film might just have been merino. Merino wool is light and soft and doesn`t it purport to `wick` perspiration and sweat? I suppose ,if this is the case, it might have been deemed very suitable for nautical clothing.

My ribbed , hawick shawl cardigan is also merino lambswool and i think it goes really well with the soft texture of blue chambray workshirts.

I think naval, dark navy melton wool peacoats might look good , combined with very fine gauge merino wool jumpers and merino wool trousers, and shiny black `smooth`s` (to offset any surfeit of `texture`).

john smedley `bower`: http://images.figleaves.com/product/290x371/r700314-p700770-front.jpg

I`ve got a camel colour corduroy buffercoat and this has a melton wool collar; i think it might look good with a `midnight` blue  merino rollneck.

I know it`s more Americana than ivy but i have an old lee `stormrider` denim jacket; they have that blanket lining and a corduroy collar. I like this with a thicker gauge , black ribbed, merino rollneck underneath, and with blue cotton 501`s and desert boots.

I bought a Peter Storm fisherman sweater in `french navy`, stretchy  merino lambswool, a few years back.I like this with muddy brown , Levi`s corduroy (cotton mix...) jeans and nubby brown suede playboy boots.

Sadly, they don`t make those Peter Storm fisherman sweaters anymore.

When it comes to shetlands, i like the dyed solid coloured Anderson Everest`s with slim tapered dark grey `Filson whipcord pants` and black smooth`s or `gibsons`.

I have these: http://www.rakuten.co.jp/georges2/cabinet/514-04.jpg

Maybe worn with a sized- up (for cool , slouchy fit) O`Connell`s cord sack jacket...

Merino wool seems to me to be a texture which somehow seems to be quite fitting for night wear. I think it`s because it has that decadent, slinky quality.It seems to go well with softer and silkier textured sportcoats.

Last edited by jesmond (2010-08-02 05:59:31)

 

#3 2010-08-02 06:42:12

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: Loving The Alien

Thank you, Jesmond.  This is all about 'keeping our eye on the ball', lest we end up wearing grey shoes.  You dig?

 

#4 2010-08-02 06:57:25

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: Loving The Alien

Merino has its 'followers' on here.  I wish I could find more that I would want to wear; it does have a good texture, and, as Kingstonian pointed out, is not going to set you back like cashmere. 
I tried the Lee Rider jacket myself during the early autumn of 2007, but couldn't seem to pull it off.  The same went for a nice plaid Pendleton jacket with poppers - absolutely 1950s - which I ended up moving on, too.

 

#5 2010-08-02 12:47:16

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: Loving The Alien

 

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