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#1 2009-04-26 05:43:55

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

The Modernist ethos

There is a sense of history, of people and places.  There is perspective.  There is an innate instinct for knowing that this is right and that is wrong.  'Cool' and 'hip' are part of the vocabulary but are not necessarily openly expressed.  To do so would risk devaluation.  John Simons knows this, and Gibson Gardens has referred to it elsewhere.  But John Simons would not venture onto a forum to give his opinion.  Nor would must of the other guys.  They're 'hip'.  They know it, they're easy with it, and that's all that matters. 

Posters like me are playing catch-up.  And we never can.

 

#2 2009-04-26 06:38:07

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: The Modernist ethos

I don't know whether its a specifically English concept - even if many of those it admires are anything but, whether jazz men or architects, furniture designers or painters - but I'd like to hear the continental and American take on it.  My guess is it was always a minority interest and that those who identified themselves, openly or otherwise, as modernists early on underwent subtle changes: possibly within a short period of time during the 1960s: the authentic 'faces'.  'Ivy' might be timeless, and suited to all age groups (so long as the process of selection is intelligent), but it is not static or coy, absorbing style and texture as it goes, borrowing a little from here and there, so that individual 'layering' (my own phrase) is a daily pleasure.  This linking of one aspect to another - clothing, design, literature, architecture, food, music - is well-documented.  It has absolutely nothing to do with the 'cartoon' mods found after l978, and probably little enough to do with the beach fighters of the Beatles era.  It takes Elizabeth David, John Coltrane, Philip Roth, Jean-Paul Belmondo, Snooks Eaglin and Ellsworth Kelly and shakes them up together to create a worldview.  No sharp edges.  But rules.  Yes, rules.

 

#3 2009-04-26 06:53:38

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: The Modernist ethos

This is what I wrote two years ago on "Being A Stylist" :

In my vision a true Stylist is a sartorial explorer first and foremost. There's a nuance to it, but an important one nevertheless. No matter how well dressed one can be in a readily recognisable style, it has little to do with Stylism/Individualism as such. If you look at things from a subcultural point of view that is.

Any straight or defined style should be considered as a starting point rather than the aim should consist of perfectioning that style.
Of course if a 'dresser' feels really at home within their chosen style ( be it Mod or Skinhead or B-Boy ) and they won't ask themselves just exactly how much room they really have to manoeuvre, that's fair enough. If a certain style suits you like that, that's fine. As in remaining true to a cause I mean.

You'll see the occasional guy in the street who stands out like that, but an Individualist he is not. There has to be that mix of tradition and idiosyncrasy to accomplish that. Inventiveness, creativity when it comes to schmutter combined with a bit of an image obsession are most certainly motivators. One could even argue to add a healthy dose of arrogance ( re-f**k you attitude ) to all of that.

The instinctive use of, in a broad sense, formal garments, sportswear and country gear ( perhaps even all at the same time ) and making it work without looking like you're trying too hard. Let alone becoming artificial. That's the eternal challenge for those who seek not to find, but for the sake of it.

It'll sound a bit restless an attitude, but a result will give the Individualist an inner calm that you can almost, but not quite, call religeous. Then again he will know he'll have to move on again soon.

New ideas will come flooding to him from fashion mags, papers, books ( ! ), a detail on a window dummy, a character in a film or someone he has noticed in a club or in the street. Now those will keep him *sharp* as well as ( give him an ) ( on ) edge. It's his reason to be.

The Stylist of course is a Dandy at heart. To counterbalance the foppish connotations surrounding the latter the need for an edge to the Stylist's image arises. How to achieve such a thing is another tricky bit of what he has to accomplish that's not to be underestimated.

For one thing he doesn't want to be mistaken for a cheap villain and furthermore he will have to look hard convincingly, or people will force him into proving what they think he isn't. Now he doesn't want to ruffle his feathers or mess up his appearance for no reason, so subtlety will do the trick once more.

Being too obvious is not what he's about anyway and isn't it true that "anything exaggerated is meaningless" ? So what does he do.....?

In most cases the Stylist will have paid his dues in life, but think about the fact that there's more to him than just looks. Almost as important as the threads he wears are the sounds he listens to, the films he watches and the books he reads.

He'll have studied some of those characters he's come across in a novel or has seen on the screen for sure. Because there's great knowledge to be gained from classic pages and movies alike. Just think of Steve McQueen in "Bullitt" for instance.

He'll be able to value the worth of such characters knowing his stuff when it comes to such matters also. The Stylist is no mean cat by any means. He'll be educated, perhaps ( also ) in a traditional sense, but even more likely in an alternative one. It's all part of his eclectic attitude. The Individualist is an Internationalist as well naturally. How can he not be, given his preference for a deep black urban soundtrack to his life.

Last edited by Alex Roest (2009-04-26 06:54:19)

 

#4 2009-04-26 07:10:13

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: The Modernist ethos

Didn't mean to steal your thunder or crib, Alex, truly! 

You put it better than I ever could, and that is because you are a true stylist.  I especially dig the reference to Steve McQueen there, because which of us has not pondered the boots, right down to the construction and texture of the soles? 
I think you will know what I mean about not having sharp edges.  We may say something is 'faggy' but that does not mean we're homophobic (to use that dreadful expression).  One instinctively goes for the 'external': Jewish, black, gay - because of their 'hip' connotations.  Billy Strayhorn was ultra-'hip' to my way of thinking.  I guess we're 'beats' in a sense, too.  One is also drawn to the Woody Allen/Mike Nichols/Zero Mostel New York 'cool' milieu: partly because it doesn't go around waving flags on St. George's Day!  Are we 'citizens of the world', then, Alex? 
But we also have to know what is phoney:  Fellini, Carnaby Street, 'Cool Britannia', Weller and Hewitt.  'Naff' we'd call them.  People like Michael Caine are 'naff'. 

Sunday afternoon is 'naff'.

 

#5 2009-04-26 07:42:31

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: The Modernist ethos

 

#6 2009-04-26 10:49:41

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: The Modernist ethos

 

#7 2009-04-26 11:43:24

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: The Modernist ethos

As in: 'varda the polony with the naff uriah'.

 

#8 2009-04-27 00:46:56

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: The Modernist ethos

Aye. I don't quite buy the "Not available" story meself, but I quite like the world view it promotes.

Naff - Just pointless, worthless, dross.

Last edited by Just Jim (2009-04-27 00:47:18)

 

#9 2009-04-27 07:17:32

Astridsdad
Member
Posts: 73

Re: The Modernist ethos

Wasn't the word 'naff' invented by the writers of Porridge to give Fletcher something to say that sounded like a swear word but wasn't? Or is that just another urban myth?


p.s. the irony of my profile pic in this thread has not bypassed me.


Bustin' makes me feel good

 

#10 2009-04-27 08:03:00

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: The Modernist ethos

Urban Myth. Naff goes way back.

 

#11 2009-04-27 08:31:14

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: The Modernist ethos

Last edited by 1966 (2009-04-27 08:35:22)

 

#12 2009-04-27 08:41:56

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: The Modernist ethos

Yup. It goes back to Italy & the Comedia Del Arte, if not before, as I understand.

In London there was West End (Theatre Land) Polari which contrasted with the East End Polari which was influenced by the guys on canal boats... if I remember right.

 

#13 2009-04-27 15:18:38

Decline & Fall
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 850

Re: The Modernist ethos

Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-04-27 18:07:30)


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#14 2009-04-27 15:25:34

Decline & Fall
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 850

Re: The Modernist ethos

On a second note, one of your country's best authors of recent decades, J.G. Ballard passes away and nary a mention of him here? What's gone wrong. I bring him up because he arguably belongs with all this modernist stuff.

Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-04-27 15:26:05)


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#15 2009-04-27 15:33:24

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: The Modernist ethos

Ballard was pretty naff, too, D&F.  Sorry, but he was.  Pretentious shite mostly.  To say someone is naff in England does not imply hatred, you know, it's routine.  So Paul Weller, Oasis, Meatloaf, Bryan Adams, Bryan Ferry (for instance) are all naff.  But for different reasons.

 

#16 2009-04-27 16:08:19

Decline & Fall
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 850

Re: The Modernist ethos

I always thought of someone like Samuel Delaney as more pretentious. I don't think Ballard really bought a lot of the theoretical out-there stuff that his New Wave peers were into and just said stuff to piss people off. I think of him as more like Michel Houellebecq, a provocateur. In fact it's hard to imagine Houellebecq w/o Ballard, IMO.

Bryan Adams? That's hilarious. Does he get played a lot over there? It is to my eternal annoyance that he comes from Canada. We have rather restrictive play rules here for our radio stations that require so many Canadian songs per hour and that sort of thing so artists like him, the Guess Who and Rush get an absurd amount of air play. Despite my efforts to avoid the radio, I'm pretty sure that I could sing the lyrics to  "Summer of '69" w/o a cue card.

Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-04-27 18:07:56)


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#17 2009-04-27 16:11:37

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: The Modernist ethos

Well, we're aware of him, put it that way.  My brother-in-law lives in Calgary.  He plays golf.  A good walk spoiled. 

'Blame Can-a-daa!'

 

#18 2009-09-23 14:08:34

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: The Modernist ethos

Bump for that old thread...

You could put the "Macchiato Man rules here", Gibson Gardens...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#19 2010-08-17 04:42:49

Trojan
Member
Posts: 217

Re: The Modernist ethos


Robbo what a fucking wanker you are.

 

#20 2010-08-17 05:26:01

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: The Modernist ethos

 

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