the hunt for great bits of clothing is definately satisying - perhaps more satisfying finding them in obscure locations than the really cheap deal you can often get. An ebay has its place when needed.

Having said that, its frustrating when you don't have a whole load of stuff already and you're just trying to get lots of bits together.

The guys on here having been great, helping me out with various items.

I can point anyone interested in the right direction.

Of the UK "Ivy" brands, Gant is trying to get back to its roots but it is very expensive. Polo RL is charging more for poorer quality. The best value stuff is in the golf range. Hilfiger and Timberland are a joke. Sebago is slowly being destroyed by its new owners.

The Brooks store in Regent Street had some US-made OBCDs earlier in the year at £79. They appear to have gone. All the shirts (except the £150 Thom Browne rip-offs) are Malaysian and there are only a few button downs. And it does not accept the AAAC discount card!

There was a time when M&S offered good quality and value OBCDs and chinos. Everything that I have bought from M&S in recent years has been binned after a few washes or given to the charity stores.

The Weejun was coming up with some interesting NOS Manhattan shirts for awhile, very good, so long as you could cope with 60% cotton and 40% polyester material. And had a 16" neck, as per my very good self. And very cost effective, a top gentlemen in the league of our most excellently mannered Shamrockmonkey.

The truth is that most brands, if not all, have sold out to the cheapest cheeriest material and cut imaginable. All that's left for the true seeker, is small family firms or deadstock.