Film Noir Buff Style Forum / Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

fxh · 2012-01-18 01:13:05

meister wrote:
The_Shooman wrote:
John starts stitching my bespoke shoe in two weeks time so i'm damn excited about that.

Mr X is also going to teach me how to handwelt and stitch on soles by hand, so on Friday l will have to pop out and buy some leather, welts, an awl and other equipment. l'm soooo damn excited doods.
Can't wait to see snaps of you on the tools. You could strip down that fxh Florsheim and rewelt it for practice.

I can pick up more Imperials and other long wings for around $50 a pair if you need good shoes to practice on..

The_Shooman · 2012-01-18 02:11:19

meister wrote:
The_Shooman wrote:
John starts stitching my bespoke shoe in two weeks time so i'm damn excited about that.

Mr X is also going to teach me how to handwelt and stitch on soles by hand, so on Friday l will have to pop out and buy some leather, welts, an awl and other equipment. l'm soooo damn excited doods.
Can't wait to see snaps of you on the tools. You could strip down that fxh Florsheim and rewelt it for practice.

l am, l am. l'm gonna pop it on my last, use a belt to hold the bugger, and then stitch that fucker like no-bodies business. l'll also do a hand carved feather and stitch a new welt on.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2012-01-18 02:13:02)

The_Shooman · 2012-01-18 02:13:58

fxh wrote:
meister wrote:
The_Shooman wrote:
John starts stitching my bespoke shoe in two weeks time so i'm damn excited about that.

Mr X is also going to teach me how to handwelt and stitch on soles by hand, so on Friday l will have to pop out and buy some leather, welts, an awl and other equipment. l'm soooo damn excited doods.
Can't wait to see snaps of you on the tools. You could strip down that fxh Florsheim and rewelt it for practice.
I can pick up more Imperials and other long wings for around $50 a pair if you need good shoes to practice on..

l'll keep it in mind, i'll probably need to take you up on that.

fxh · 2012-01-18 03:39:46

280 is for stretching shoes to ease a bunion or knobbly bit.

281 is an elephant goad - as recommended in NJSs latest book.

meister · 2012-01-21 03:42:13

DWF from SF:

http://the-shoe-snob.blogspot.com/

Last edited by meister (2012-01-21 03:42:24)

NJS · 2012-01-21 04:08:17

fxh wrote:
http://www.greatplanestrading.com/HUMV/HUMV211r.jpg

280 is for stretching shoes to ease a bunion or knobbly bit.

281 is an elephant goad - as recommended in NJSs latest book.

??? News to me!!!

meister · 2012-01-22 06:51:37

http://www.styleforum.net/t/283836/part … st_5127239

Interview with LA shoemaker Raul Ojeda

Last edited by meister (2012-01-22 06:52:08)

The_Shooman · 2012-01-22 20:15:25

l speak to the Herringbone salesmen and they tell me that the Crocket & Jones aren't selling well because people balk at the prices. lt makes me sad how society has been cheapened by the made-in-China mentality, everyone wants to skimp on everything so we have food (imported and factory made) and material items not much better than sh*t.

l feel like offering to work there on weekends for free just so they can convert future shoo-junkies.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2012-01-22 20:16:50)

wrigglez · 2012-01-23 06:01:31

god its been to long since ive visited the forum, sounds like you two has an awesome time. i keep going to gigs at the palace theater and every time i walk past american tailors and wish i was there during the day time so i could pop in.
glad to see your still fighting the good shoe fight!

so is your blog up yet or still being worked on shooey?

The_Shooman · 2012-01-23 07:05:13

wrigglez wrote:
god its been to long since ive visited the forum, sounds like you two has an awesome time. i keep going to gigs at the palace theater and every time i walk past american tailors and wish i was there during the day time so i could pop in.
glad to see your still fighting the good shoe fight!

Funny, l was only thinking of you yesterday for the first time in ages. l am glad you called by. l wondered, l wonder how Wriggles was going with his bespoke shoes made by cliff.

so is your blog up yet ?

Yes, l do have the blog with a small amount of material posted, but l need to stop posting here and concentrate on writing stuff for it. Got plenty of good stuff l want to say. .

fxh · 2012-01-23 07:28:08

wrigglez wrote:
god its been to long since ive visited the forum, sounds like you two has an awesome time. i keep going to gigs at the palace theater and every time i walk past american tailors and wish i was there during the day time so i could pop in.
glad to see your still fighting the good shoe fight!

so is your blog up yet or still being worked on shooey?

Wriggly

Good to see you back.

What sort of gigs you going to at The Palace?

Nice place but often dissapointing sound I find.

wrigglez · 2012-01-23 19:34:32

Last one was the living end in September, there a great aussie band to hear live. can’t say I’m much of an acoustic connoisseur tho haha

meister · 2012-01-23 21:23:16

Being fitted for a shoe - 1930s style

http://www.styleforum.net/t/75007/the-a … y-footwear

meister · 2012-01-24 04:39:20

Carreducker shows you how to do handwelting Shooey. http://carreducker.blogspot.com/2010/01 … -year.html

wrigglez · 2012-01-24 05:18:32

fancy that, carreducker use springline too

The_Shooman · 2012-02-04 00:04:54

Some big fat buggers made by local aussie legend Mr X to demonstrate to the workers how to make a shoo properly. :

The Chinese expert pattern maker (he drew the pattern and closed the upper). Mr X could have done it, but he let the Asian fellow do it instead. Mr X did the clicking and making on the two shoos, but the footwear was machine lasted. With my trial bespoke Mr X drew the pattern, clicked the leather, hand lasted it, made it, but got the Chinese bloke [above] to close my upper.

You won't see Alden and Allen Edmonds do work that good. Being a shoemaker of almost 60 years experience will always triumph that of a machine operator working in a shoe factory.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2012-02-04 00:10:32)

The_Shooman · 2012-02-04 00:42:27

lk have just found out that there is another bloke who can stitch welts and soles by hand also. He can't make a shoe from start to finish, but he can stitch and can also `hand last' to perfection. The stitcher works in construction during the daytime and does hand lasting at night occasionally. The problem is that he is tough to get access too because he doesn't speak hardly a word of English (he speaks Turkish) and the factory that he helps would require bribes for me to be able to have access to him. Mr X said it is best to give it a miss.

lt just goes to show you have much talent is still around for making shoes the old way, but it is near impossible to find. There are probably dozens who can do the work, but they are all retired or working in other industries after being sacked so production can move to China and lndia.

The_Shooman · 2012-02-04 09:59:45

The_Shooman wrote:
Some big fat buggers made by local aussie legend Mr X to demonstrate to the workers how to make a shoo properly. :
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/ … 06/073.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/ … 6/0771.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/ … 06/078.jpg

The Chinese expert pattern maker (he drew the pattern and closed the upper). Mr X could have done it, but he let the Asian fellow do it instead. Mr X did the clicking and making on the two shoos, but the footwear was machine lasted. With my trial bespoke Mr X drew the pattern, clicked the leather, hand lasted it, made it, but got the Chinese bloke [above] to close my upper.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/ … 6/0691.jpg

You won't see Alden and Allen Edmonds do work that good. Being a shoemaker of almost 60 years experience will always triumph that of a machine operator working in a shoe factory.

When those shoos were first made they didn't fit the last properly because the pattern was slightly out, but Mr X improved both the last, the design and the pattern and showed them how to use machinery to get clean lines on the shoo. But Mr X does say that they aren't naturals at shoemaking becaase they don't use their common sense to solve problems, they can only copy what you show them. They are great immitators so far when it comes to shoemaking.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2012-02-04 10:01:36)

meister · 2012-02-08 05:28:02

William Lennon (UK) boot factory

Most people here will be familiar with traditional British boot or shoe construction, like the Goodyear or military-style Veldtschoen. William Lennon offer something completely different, a unique construction which goes back to an old German style of boot, made with wooden pegs. Walking around the factory is like a history lesson – one that invokes dozens of names of defunct brands, as the world turns to cheap Chinese or Indian-made footwear. While the company – overseen by Les Lennon, grandson of the founder, and directors Dan Walker and Libs Slattery - is busy, you sense it's a constant struggle sourcing supplies. In the past their rough-out leathers came from Hull; now it comes from Switzerland. Zug grain used to come from the Bridge of Wear Tannery – now it comes from Horween in Chicago, as does nearly all of the waxy, chrome-tanned leather used for the uppers, which previously came from the Fitzroy Tannery in Australia. Sole leather is vegetable tanned, and still comes from a company in Northampton. Commando soles, a staple of British footwear, came from Itshide – a historic company, which apparently went through several owners in the last decade before moving to Bulawayo and ceasing trading. So now Lennon have sourced replacements from Viberg and Corinium. At the same time, this constant change represents an opportunity: Lennon picked up many new customers when they returned to making Shepherds' boots after the last major manufacturer, Tebbutt and Hall, ceased trading.

http://loomstate.blogspot.com.au/2011/1 … leton.html

The_Shooman · 2012-02-08 19:08:09

meister wrote:
William Lennon (UK) boot factory

Most people here will be familiar with traditional British boot or shoe construction, like the Goodyear or military-style Veldtschoen. l

You don't get to see many Veldtschoen constructed shoes around, apparently there is only a few factories that make this certain construction these days. One of the remaining places that do this construction is in New Zealand, and local shoe shop McLoeds are lucky enough to get some of there Veldtschoen constructed shoes.

l think l found a Veldtschoen constructed shoe in the blog above:

fxh · 2012-03-13 06:06:00

Shooey. Im not sure if you saw this. A grant from federal government in 2010 - 2011. It includes your mate the last maker. $6m isn't too bad. Do you know much about it and what's happened?

Mass customisation for the Australian footwear industry.
A consortium consisting of the FMAA; R M Williams Pty Ltd; J Robins Manufacturing Pty Ltd; and, Shoe Lasts Australia Pty Ltd will be formed. They will deliver a project focussed on customised footwear for the Australian market. This will involve developing lean, flexible manufacturing systems, testing the commercial application of footwear scanning technology and biometric data collection and storage. It applies new information technology systems in support of a customised product.
6,245,250

The_Shooman · 2012-03-13 07:55:41

fxh wrote:
Shooey. Im not sure if you saw this. A grant from federal government in 2010 - 2011. It includes your mate the last maker. $6m isn't too bad. Do you know much about it and what's happened?

Mass customisation for the Australian footwear industry.
A consortium consisting of the FMAA; R M Williams Pty Ltd; J Robins Manufacturing Pty Ltd; and, Shoe Lasts Australia Pty Ltd will be formed. They will deliver a project focussed on customised footwear for the Australian market. This will involve developing lean, flexible manufacturing systems, testing the commercial application of footwear scanning technology and biometric data collection and storage. It applies new information technology systems in support of a customised product.
6,245,250

The plan to join forces has been in the pipeline for over 12 months, l am so pleased that it has happened, now the `last' making business and handmade shoos in Australia has a good sound future for quite some time. R.M.W, Bruce Millar and Robins are completely dedicated to keeping manufacturing in Oz.

And WOW!!! lt looks like Bruce's prayers have paid off afterall. A 6 million dollar grant. lncredible!!! Normally the government don't even want to know about Bruce and local footwear manufacturing. Bruce must be over the moon. l'll be seeing Bruce in the near future so l will have a good chat to him about it.

Thanks for passing on the good news, it has made my week.

l have a good interview l will be doing with some special folks at the FMAA in the future. Still got other footwear heavy weights to speak with too. They'll really complete the picture of the footwear industry in Oz. Hopefully in time l will be able to convince the CEO of R.M.W to speak to me also.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2012-03-13 08:00:25)

Horace · 2012-08-29 02:25:41

Ah, it looks as if Melbourne, indeed is a place where one is likely to find shoos. I had thought that Perth & Darwin had the market cornered, but apparently I was wrong.

The_Shooman · 2012-08-29 03:53:03

..

what are you up to Horace? l smell a rat.

The_Shooman · 2012-08-29 04:15:42

l see Bruce Millar tomorrow morning for a fitting for a new bespoke last. l love visiting Bruce at the factory, it is the best fun ever. When l go to Bruce's factory l NEVER EVER wanna leave, l wanna stay there all day and night....even camp out for days if l could. lf l was Bruce l would never wanna leave the factory, i'd stay there forever!

Last edited by The_Shooman (2012-08-29 04:17:49)

#51 2012-01-18 01:13:05

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

meister wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

#52 2012-01-18 02:11:19

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

meister wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

#53 2012-01-18 02:13:58

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

fxh wrote:

meister wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

#54 2012-01-18 03:39:46

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#55 2012-01-21 03:42:13

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#56 2012-01-21 04:08:17

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

fxh wrote:

#57 2012-01-22 06:51:37

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#58 2012-01-22 20:15:25

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#59 2012-01-23 06:01:31

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#60 2012-01-23 07:05:13

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

wrigglez wrote:

#61 2012-01-23 07:28:08

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

wrigglez wrote:

#62 2012-01-23 19:34:32

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#63 2012-01-23 21:23:16

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#64 2012-01-24 04:39:20

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#65 2012-01-24 05:18:32

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#66 2012-02-04 00:04:54

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#67 2012-02-04 00:42:27

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#68 2012-02-04 09:59:45

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

The_Shooman wrote:

#69 2012-02-08 05:28:02

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#70 2012-02-08 19:08:09

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

meister wrote:

#71 2012-03-13 06:06:00

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#72 2012-03-13 07:55:41

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

fxh wrote:

#73 2012-08-29 02:25:41

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#74 2012-08-29 03:53:03

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

#75 2012-08-29 04:15:42

Re: Melbourne shoo scene - bursting with glory once again! Shoo heaven!

Board footer