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#26 2012-05-31 14:34:59
- noblesurfer
- Ivy Explorer
- Posts: 191
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Carpu is this the kind of thing you mean: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi … 500wt_1108?
Looks ridiculously short and imbalanced, kind of like the jackets James Brown wore on stage in the early 60's.
#27 2012-05-31 14:59:34
- One For Bop
- Mr. Ivy
- From: time to time.
- Posts: 1464
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Not really displayed in the best way, too big for the bust, and it looks like its pegged, love the soft shoulder with a bit of roping, in fact, I think i love Italian tailoring more than Ivy, but everything else I do like about Ivy.
''By hurling yourself into the abyss you discover its a feather bed.”
#28 2012-05-31 16:40:08
- carpu65
- Member
- Posts: 934
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
noblesurfer wrote:
Carpu is this the kind of thing you mean: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi … 500wt_1108?
Looks ridiculously short and imbalanced, kind of like the jackets James Brown wore on stage in the early 60's.
Yes,is this.
And this is Gaetano Savini,the Brioni great chief ,with a normal Brioni Italian suit.
#29 2012-05-31 21:54:02
- Goodyear welt
- Ivyist At Large
- Posts: 1388
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
carpu65 wrote:
Goodyear welt wrote:
I'd say more mid Italian than mid Atlantic with the Conduit suit.
Absolutley not.
In Italy in 50s and 60s the style was three buttons coats (and often also double breasted,especially in 50s).
Two buttons were little worn (had two moments of relative glory in 1959 and in 1962,especially in Milan,but not broke the domain of three buttons) .
The so called "continental" suit is only an American interpretation of some things that Brioni have make for foreign market.
Brioni did that in 54 didn't they? I should have said mid continental. Its a great looking suit where ever the influence came from.
Too high above the waist was the badge of the hopeless nerd/engineering student. High waters were also not cool, the right length is the right length and you either grasp it, have the eye, or you don't.
The Horses mouth. 2014
#30 2012-06-01 06:09:40
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Three button suits and jackets might have been most popular ca. 1960, but that was the same in the UK and the USA...
But there were also two button coats. It was also a modern style at the time. Check Marcello:
and a sketch comparing Ivy and "Continental" US styles:
From Sports Illustrated, January, 1959.
Ivy Style Suit a favorite today from Madison Avenue to Market Street, has three buttons, unfitted shape, flap pockets, notch lapels, center vent. For many American men, it is the only way to dress and has been since their fathers’ day. They are not very likely to change their minds in the near future.
Continental suit jacket is about one inch shorter — in the Italian manner: has darts to give custom fit look at waist — ala Bond Street. It has two (sometimes three) buttons, peak lapels, side vents, slanting flapless pockets, an unpadded, more forward shoulder, is worn with neat, spread collar shirt.
http://theselvedgeyard.wordpress.com/20 … ivy-style/
Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2012-06-01 06:13:54)
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#31 2012-06-01 09:40:28
- carpu65
- Member
- Posts: 934
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
The "continental" model and the two buttons that Mastroianni wear in "La dolce vita" are completely different.
Mastroianni's coat is classic,notched lapels,with classic cut ,and not slanting, pockets.
The length of coat and the width of trousers is also in the classic range.
The coat are not "continental" in anyway.
#32 2012-06-02 03:33:53
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
You're right. Marcello looks great!
I guess, the "continental" sketch is a little exaggerated. The text just mentions that it's "about one inch shorter".
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#33 2012-06-02 20:32:34
- carpu65
- Member
- Posts: 934
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
I think that the "continental"suit temple was Petrocelli,in California.
Sy Devore in Los Angeles sewed great bespoke "continental" suit too.
Nothing wrong with continental coat and trousers,but is not "Italian".
Caesar Romero,the man in the Petrocelli suit:
#34 2012-06-02 21:51:09
- Oliver
- Member
- From: San Francisco, CA
- Posts: 1058
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Is that a single button?
This is the look I was describing earlier, perhaps a bit more structure in the shoulders though.
#35 2012-06-04 03:16:32
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Back on topic, some more JFK photos:
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#36 2012-06-04 03:31:10
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 83
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
/\ Great style !
#37 2012-06-04 03:39:01
- The Woolster
- Ivy Antenna
- Posts: 1110
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Is that a great big hole on his shetland there? I feel much better wearing my beater stuff now..
#38 2012-06-04 06:57:40
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Yes, looks like a hole. Great, isn't it?
Here's an on-duty pic, the cover of the book:
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#39 2012-06-04 09:16:22
- One For Bop
- Mr. Ivy
- From: time to time.
- Posts: 1464
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Bullet hole?
''By hurling yourself into the abyss you discover its a feather bed.”
#40 2012-06-04 09:18:12
- Liam Mac
- Ivy Avenger
- From: Beyond!
- Posts: 4789
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Too soon!
"You've gotta get up close like this and - bada-BING! - you blow their brains all over your nice Ivy League suit."
suits/jackets 36/37S. waist 29-30. shirts 14.5/15 32.
#41 2012-06-06 08:43:18
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Oliver wrote:
On the dicsussion of American versus UK and Continental stylings (nothing to do with Kennedy) where does the single button closure fall in?
.
IT'S AMERICAN!
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#42 2012-06-14 08:30:08
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Not an Ivy suit but a well made one button:
Probably not exactly what you're looking for, Oliver, but isn't it great?
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#43 2012-06-14 10:13:02
- carpu65
- Member
- Posts: 934
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
I call it "Sydevoresque" suit (from the "tailor of the stars" Sy Devore).
Sy cut many of these type of suit for Jerry Lewis,in 60s.
Is an interesting silhouette and infinitely better of that those ugly skinny things in ourdays.
If you prefer can call it "continental",but is not Italian at all.
is from the Grand-Duchy of Sydevoria.
#45 2012-06-20 07:01:43
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
one more JFK
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#46 2012-06-20 07:13:20
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2012-06-20 07:19:38)
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#47 2012-06-22 06:12:01
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4567
Re: The Kennedys - A Nourmand, Shaw & Marsh production !
Re: one button suits:
Marvin
a suit at Hardy & Johnson:
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"