Bopster, chest and waist are measured by the underarm darts, otherwise you're basically measuring the rear of the jacket which would have no bearing on the chest at all. The side seams don't fall anywhere near the underarms so it's not a true reflection of the chest. In order to measure up the chest and waist, you follow the above - at least that's been my rule of thumb. The actual side seams obviously run along the back side of the jacket and that's probably where the confusion lies. These wouldn't ever run parallel as the very nature of jacket construction would make that impossible. I suppose I might've been misusing the term "side seam" in this context but just assumed you knew what I was referencing. The reason the pocket is only half showing is because I was following the dart or seam; technically the same thing. It's the partameter for sizing the chest/waist as it serves as the border for the front canvas of the jacket. When people talk about pinching at the waist, as the OP mentioned, this is generally where the alteration would be done and I was simply warning to stay away from that and work from the back (rear seams) so that you don't mess with the waist and the front canvas drapes like a proper sack. Hope that clarifies!

/\  that sport coat is a real beaut Ollie!  what's its story?

/\  heh heh I meant: who's the maker?  I dig it.

Fine dinnertime threads Oli.  Hope you had a good time and the in-laws didn't break you down too much.

Nice Oli, I stayed at the Argonaut last year and used to walk past the Buena Vista most evenings.

Oliver, you've been killing it lately. I'm a sucker for a Pendleton. In these last photos, am I correct in assuming that's a full suit?

Quite tasty! I guessed suit because the buttons appear to be tonal but that's a great, classic getup.

I'll have to look them up.

I do like the tonal look. My blazer has brass buttons, which are my preference. They're vintage though, and are quite subdued (I tried and failed to take a picture for reference). The brass buttons on some of my Pendleton sport coats are so dark they look closer to copper than brass.

I think metal buttons (especially on a sport coat, where they are less expected) are great for some vintage flair. But I can't imagine anyone actually liking the flashiness of most modern brass buttons.

Sweatshirt info?