This post will be a bit of a tease as I've been crazy busy as of late and won't likely get around to posting any pictures until next week, but I just got my five pockets in the mail this morning and I love them! They're a much hipper looking trouser than LVC for the c. '64 SoCal groove; they're more simple and streamlined, ie. no rivets, patches, ornamental stitching, etc. They're also a better fit (still very tapered but slightly less so than LVC) and they feel like a much lighter weight cotton, which I suppose makes sense for the tropical climate they're intended. Levi's look and feel more like jeans, they're heavier and more rugged to the touch. I'm not sure whether that's a good or bad thing nor how the construction will hold up, but the Yellow Rat five-pockets still feel pretty solid. They're also a much longer finish than the LVC's. In fact, I'm not sure why they bothered to hem them at all as they'll definitely need to be shortened, unless you're Andre the Giant, but I like that they give you the option to cut to your preference. Now I must admit that I'm considering ordering a second pair in a size 33. I purchased a 32 and the measurements are near perfect (certainly more ideal than even the original LVC reissues!) but the thought of an extra half inch in the rise has been gnawing at me all weekend. Most everyone on the forum, with the possible exception of our resident Brubeckian Hitman who I don't really see sporting the look anyway, would surely be satisfied with the measurements. I'd have considered them ideal only a couple of years ago, but really an extra half inch would seal the deal for me and I worry a bit about laundering; were they to lose a quarter inch, they'd fall below the border for me. I think I'm going to give the 33 a try and then return one of the two pairs. The in-and-outseam between the 32 and 33 are identical. The ankles are a half inch wider which might even work better (I'm undecided and want to compare) but I wonder how easy it would be to nip and tuck the bedford cotton cloth at the waist? Anyhow, quick summary: they're very close to what I would consider the perfect five-pockets. They aren't a replacement for classic Levi's sta-prest in look or fit, but they definitely fill a niche that I was looking to plug. I can't think of a better match for popovers, cvo's, shades and sunshine. I'll be giving them a good workout this summer.
thanks Ollie for the report, I like the look of Yellow Rat's stuff as mentioned elsewhere and am well sorted with tons of pairs of vintage 519s but still would like to Rat out a bit so I might try them! summer is a coming in, something we can all be thankful for, Wingnut!
cheers ollie
someone needs to design them a proper website
http://yellowrat.blogspot.co.uk
Last edited by Oliver (2015-03-31 11:43:32)
Oliver, what is the rear rise on those 32's that you ordered? I'd definitely consider a pair if the rear rise was adequate enough. I tried a pair of the recent LVC 519's and the rear rise is disappointingly short.
Rear rise looks to be just shy of 15" which is close to perfect. 16" would really be ideal and come to think of it, the original LVC's came up a bit closer if memory serves. I just wish the front rise came up to 12". The 33's should solve that but I'll have to have them altered in the waist and thighs through ankles which I'm not looking forward to. I'll decide whether or not to proceed once they show up.
Last edited by Oliver (2015-03-31 12:44:53)
I just measured and unless I'm doing something wrong, I got 11.5" on the front rise, which is far better than LVC - old or new. Strangely, they doesn't feel that high though. They're obviously pre-shrunk so I don't expect much if any shrinkage but I'm going to hand wash in cold water and air dry to be safe. The actual measurements are reading more impressively in real life than the website's chart.
Last edited by Bradley (2015-03-31 13:06:57)
If the LVC bedfords are the typical five-pockets, the measurements fall short of Yellow Rat. See the size chart for current production here: http://www.endclothing.co.uk/sale/levi-s-vintage-clothing-519-bedford-pant-51860-0016.html
I used to own the original 519's and liked them a lot but the rise was still only 11.25" on the first reissues so these still fare slightly better. I also dig the non-riveted understated look of the Yellow Rats more. No ornamental stitching on the rear pockets (which also aren't as large as the LVCs) they're a more subdued look which I think is a lot cooler. The measurements still fall a touch short of what I like but in all fairness, the guy claims they're a near identical replica of the 1963 White Levi's in fit, so I'm guessing the cut was similar even back then. I'd just prefer an extra half an inch. I think the 33's should solve that without compromising in other areas.
I'm a bit confused by the sizing chart for those YR 5 pockets - e.g. Size 33 shows a waist size of 35", size 34 waist size 36" etc.....
woof, 32 buttoned measures approx. 16.5" to 16.75" (laying flat) with stretch to about 17". That would be roughly 33 doubled.
I'd take that size chart with a grain of salt. As you can see by my pic with the measuring tape, the rise appears to be well above the stated measurement on the website. I would guess that size 33 is closer to a 34" waist, based on the measurements of the size 32. They seem to fit pretty true to size. Not sure I'd put too much weight towards the accuracy of the numbers on the website.
I was also told over the phone that the sizes jump incrementally by 0.5 of an inch.
If 32 measures 16.5" than 33" should measure 17" (with at least a half inch stretch due to the nature of the fabric).
17" x 2 = 34"
So waist would seem to measure one inch above the tagged size.
EDIT: I re-measured from the rear seam to side seam (rather than just folding in half and running the tape across the side) and 32 measures a solid 17" so 32 = 34.
By that logic...
33 = 35"
34 = 36"
35 = 37"
36 = 38"
Makes sense to me; what's your issue with those numbers?
Last edited by Oliver (2015-03-31 15:21:12)
No issue just trying to gauge what size I would need. Thanks for the info Oli, really helpful as ever.
Ugh, I'm a rock in a hard place with these pants! I want to try them out, but I have a 30" waist and I know that the rise of the 30's will be far too short. Might be worth it to try the 32's and if the rise is adequate, just bring in the waist.
It still bewilders me that there are SO few sources for casual pants - be it 5 pockets or something else - with a high rise and tapered leg.
Also, Oliver, what was the measurement of the leg opening at the hem of your 32's?
The only thing I don't understand is why the rise fluctuates from size to size rather than remaining constant. Only negative point against these pants. If the size 33-34 rise were standard across the board, these would be thee five pockets to own and a forum favourite/classic for sure!