Hey all! I'm a long-time lurker, first time poster. I love this place and it has been a wealth of both information and eye candy. I'm a 33-year-old journalist and playwright living in Washington, D.C.
Though I'm not a trad/ivy purist, I'm not a WASP (Irish Catholic, oops.) and I went to NYU (how anti-ivy can you get?), I've always been such a fan of the style for its ease and consistency (Also, I'm a bit of a clothes horse).
With that said, I have a question.
I recently picked up a mid-70s (based on the union label design) Brooks camel hair, glen plaid sport jacket. It's soft shoulder, 3r2 and undarted. I absolutely love it and I picked it up for $8. (Incidentally, a big, floppy Boss jacket from the early '90s was marked $30. There are things in life I'll never understand.)
Now for my question. What makes a sack jacket? Is it purely construction or does it have to do with material? Can a camel hair, glen plaid jacket be considered a sack jacket because of the soft shoulder, 3r2 and undarted construction?
I've read up on the history of the BB No. 1 and all that, but I'm more interested in the sack jacket of the 50s-60s trad style. Thanks in advance for the help. I really love learning about the nuanced histories of the things I love and trad style is right up there with Eugene O'Neill and pre-CBS strats.
Hi McDermott and welcome. Most suits and sports coats are darted at the front or cut so that they come in at the waist slightly. A sack jacket is a straight cut coat with little or no waist supression so that the cloth drapes from the shoulders when it is worn. When it is buttoned up and laid flat the sides under the arms will be straight and parallel. I'm not aware that the type of cloth makes any difference to it being a sack jacket, it's all about the cut. There are, of course, people on here who will be able to tell you far more about this than I could!
Best wishes on your ivy clothing adventures.
The fabric/pattern has nothing to do with whether or not the jacket is a "sack" jacket, as the term "sack" simply refers to the cut of it and the other idiosyncrasies: lack of front darts, subtle or no waist suppression (as Woof stated, though this doesn't mean that the jacket is at all baggy), 3 button front that rolls to two, and natural shoulders. There are of course other attributes like a rear "hook" vent or 2 button cuffs that further signify an "Ivy" jacket, but they don't make sack jackets sack jackets.
I hope that helps a little! And by the way, welcome McDermott!
Thank you both, Woof and Bradley! That is exactly what I was looking for. I knew about the construction and details, but I wasn't sure if material was also factor.
And thanks for the warm welcome as well.
I thought McGregor was an American firm, founded by a first generation Jewish immigrant, who made up a Scottish heritage for marketing purposes.
McGregor is an American company but I don't know about the Jewish immigrant/Irish heritage back story.
McGregor was formerly a vegetable farmer in England before moving to the States where he gained fame for the Drizzler.
Well, this has been very educational all around.
can't believe you all don't know about Farmer McGregor ......
McGregor was infact Italian. Brooks bros paid NYC officials to alter documents in an attempt to dumb down Italian Ivy which was gaining a reputation among the East coast middle and upper classes during the 1900s. Don't listen to these people on here Dermott with their filth and lies.
I suppose the main give away that he was telling porkies was the fact it was clan MacGregor and not clan McGregor..from which Rob Roy descended. Although both Mc and Mac are used in Scotland Mac is far more common in use as the trend for surnames was adopted a lot later in Scotland than it was in Ireland, and when the trend did occur it seemed the Scots much favoured the use of Mac than Mc.