Roll is a factor of collar length, collar rigidity, and also the button-down collar button placement.
Not placket button placement.
For instance, you could have a short collar that's also very rigid, but you could move the collar buttons up to force a roll.
^
Likewise
Very interesting!
I've actually moved all of my collar point buttons up .872 on my shirts to really hit the roll sweet spot.*
*Here Worried Man attempts to inject his own brand of stupid comedy into the discussion.
Last edited by Bop (2016-01-15 01:01:33)
Another thing to throw into the 'collar' mix.
It's not just about the collar being lined, it's wether the lining is fused or not.
Some vintage Sero's have a lined collar but it's unfused and the collar rolls beautifully.
One of these days I'll stop by Brooks to take a look, but I think David Mercer still has my money.
^
Mine too. Just no-nonsense, quality shirts with lovely fabrics and attentive service to boot.
My late 50's Brooks OCBD has a relatively short collar. Anyhow, a taste test is in order, complete with measurements among various vintages. Poor photos as always. Look for it late next week.
(My suspicions at this point: Brooks has retained the colors that sell well. White, blue, blue stripe,pink. The stripes in aqua, yellow, and purple may be a seasonal offering. Scooping these up during a sale may be the best way to go. If these retro shirts don't sell well over the next year or two, would Brooks axe the shirt altogether? If that's the case, all roads lead to Mercer.)
A review has just been posted on Ivy Style. Your mileage may vary.
Last edited by farrago (2016-01-15 09:22:03)
Last edited by Yuca (2016-01-16 02:38:51)
We have all focused quite rightly on the collar but equally important for me is the fit.
What is a Madison Fit ? Does this mean the end of the traditional fit ?
No billow and I'm out .
If I interpreted the IS article there are different fits. I suppose there is a billowing fit as many Americans need a billow... Overweight etc. Let's see what Farrago finds out... For me they are too expensive anyway. US made or not...
I bought some Madison fit 'non iron' shirts in Brooks for the office because they are easy to look after and I didn't want to wear my vintage Makers in the workplace. The salesman described the Madison as being slightly less fulsome than the Traditional fit which weren't in stock at the branch where I was. There is still plenty of material and I find it necessary to execute a military tuck, but the shirt presents a cleaner profile when worn i.e. billow rather than super billow. I quite like the look of them and I like the fact that I'm not constantly fiddling about re-tucking and trying to get a neat look, although some of that may due to the non iron cloth which has a higher friction coefficient and is less prone to coming untucked, if you know what I mean.
However here's an odd thing....I compared measurements of the Madison fit shirts with some of my old Makers (6 & 7 buttoners). On a size 16/33 the Makers measured between 23"- 24" across the waist, a couple of old Brooks shirts that were labelled 'Traditional Fit' were 23.5". The Madisons came out at a respectable 24" which surprised me because, as stated above, I find them quite different to wear.
Anyway don't let the Madison fit put you off if you feel you would like to splash out on one of these shirts.