Thats a stunning bit of work Farrago...Thanks . Love that Hellio uni stripe^^^^
Last edited by Leer R. (2016-01-23 09:13:51)
A rigorous endeavor, Farrago. But, what do these findings tell us? Seems the new shirt is yet another iteration of what seems to have always been sort of a moving target?
I think that's the point... There is no "definitive" Makers shirt. They always shifted a bit... and differed. If you see in that context... you get another view on it
Great stuff farrago - many thanks. I'm looking forward to studying in depth. But what about your instinctive impression of the latest shirts? Back to the old school or a hybrid of the old and the new?
Last edited by Yuca (2016-01-23 11:20:56)
I agree. The shirring and the medium weight cloth... billow inclusive but with narrow shoulders. and the wide box pleat... Alltogether with a pretty distinctive Roll. That's it...
My odd, random thoughts.
~ I have always rated BB's oxford cloth to be the best. Better than Mercer's.
~ The last run of lined heavyweights seems to be inducing a bit of nostalgia on the other boards. I would have liked Brooks to have made an unlined version of this shirt, using the heavier cloth. (If anyone is having a sudden bout of nostalgia, pm me.)
~ The 2016 shirt seems to be a hybrid, what with the 7 button front and the 23 1/2" chest. The weight has dropped. If you wore one, I don't think it would disappoint you.
~ As Leer points out, the dimensions have changed one way or another over the years. A definitive version is relative to any given era.
~ For some reason, I think the Head Bean Counter imposed his will. "Lose the pocket and keep the gussets. Or vice versa. You can't have both at that price point."
~ I think these will sell well during the sales.
~ I foresee Brooks reducing the number of choices and offering one or two seasonal choices to go with the basic white, blue, blue stripe, and pink.
To answer most of Yuca's concerns, the following details are the same: cuff button placement, shirring, a narrow shoulder with a single box pleat.
I'll try to take a photo of me wearing the new shirt.
You still haven't said anything about the taste!
So it appears these really are in the tradition - the only odd thing being the hybrid of a 1990s placket, a weight and collar length of any post 60s shirts, and the gussets and lack of chest pocket of a proper old school 50s and earlier shirt. Odd but still appealing. I strongly suspect I would wear one.
Question: the billow is based on the width at the waist area, i.e. just below the penultimate button. Are there any variances on these measurements? If you don't have time to measure them all then a contrast with the 60s Brooks and the new ones would be interesting please. A strong taper could be disastrous.
Last edited by Yuca (2016-01-24 01:58:25)
Yuca, I looked at the area of the billow. All of the shirts measured +/- 23". The latest model is tighter through the chest, but the measurement towards the waist has not been reduced.
If you have a chance, could you please post some fit pics with the various shirts and maybe a Mercer button down thrown in for good measure? I somehow managed to scheme a corporate acct with Brooks some years back that gets me something like 15-20% year-round discounts. I've never really made much use of it but I could maybe see an order for some plain white ocbds in my future... Could you post a few comparison pics of collar roll, cuffs and back pleat just to get a better idea of these new shirts? Thanks for the in-depth analysis btw; great work!!
That said, the trimmed down shilouette doesn't really jive with me. It's the one big disappointment with regards to the specs you've posted.
Out of curiosity, any chance you could provide shoulder seam and/or armhole measurements? I would find it interesting to see what differences there are (if any).
Last edited by farrago (2016-01-25 08:05:47)
Looks pretty good.
That does look pretty good! I may add some white ocbds to my list during the next sale.
Nice. I shall await the sales...
I thought I was an enthusiast, but this is some seriously advanced shit right here
We're just getting warmed up.
Thanks again for the shots Farrago. You wear it well. Looks good. I guess I'll just go ahead and accept that I'll probably get one sooner or later.