I think 2 inch cuffs on a tapered leg doesnt really look right..great for fuller trousers but not those...the rest of the trouser isnt bad
Those do look good. Rise is flattering, but not so high you'd necessarily get noticed to much for it.
I'm pretty happy with my JS Chinos in most terms. Rise is around 12 on the pair I've only had dry cleaned/ aired and spot washed and the shrinkage on the pair I've beat up more have only had half inche shrinkage on the rise. I had them shortened, re-tapered, cuffed and a buckle put on the back. The rise could be maybe just that bit higher, the fabric is also pretty lightweight but has held up ok. Total cost on the pair I had altered was £94 (69 for chinos, 25 on alterations) which is ok for something that is nearly there.
Well done,Tommy. Not a bad at all. Especially, considering I paid £139 for the Duckheads at John Simons.
They look decent to me, but he needs to learn how to wear them. The trousers in the ad are tapered and look perfect with cuffs, so I don't think cuffs are the problem.
I keep looking at O'Connells trousers but at $200-$300 + shipping + import duties, excellent as they are, they just don't stack up for me. If you can find a good tailor, as this guy has done, you can have some made to your specs or have a favourite pair copied for less than those prices.
I like 1 3/4" cuffs, it's only slightly less but, as we know, small amounts can make a difference with these details.
I agree the cuffs are too wide, but overall I think they look good. I'm happy with spending $125 (happier when they were $99) on the O'C's chinos at this point though. I fretted over trousers for so long and did all this experimenting and alterations and man I just got sick of it. So even though the O'C's may not be completely perfect, they satiate my desires adequately enough.
personally, think they don't taper enough, so the cuffs look a little off.
it says they finish with a 17" hem whereas the illustration is probably about a 15" hem
Hi all, Pedro here, aka The Hogtown Rake. Really happy to read everyone's thoughts on the pants. Funny thing is, no one on Ivy-Style or my site is breaking down the particulars, which I hoped people would. You're my kind of crowd.
I agree with the consensus here, on the cuffs. 1 3/4" would have been better. But these pants really were an experiment. I think next time an angled fly seam for more fabric up top, a bit more ease in the thigh, slightly more tapered, slightly smaller cuffs. That said, I'm happy with them. And very happy they've started a few conversations. Bring back the full rise, I say!
Just a shame we have to go to such lengths (please excuse the pun).
Welcome HTR,
I really like the cloth you chose. Very versatile shade.
Did you start out from scratch or did you have your tailor alter an existing pattern?
Last edited by Chief Brody (2016-03-04 13:29:21)
Thanks, it's a nice, heavy cotton, very classic. The tailor I used has done some casual pants but in truth, they used a dress pant pattern for these with my specific alterations. For instance, there's an extra tab in the waistband, which is ok for lightweight worsted, but too bulky for cotton. I also think that's why they didn't think of angling the fly seam. Next time.
Welcome, Hogtown. I've been a staunch proponent of the natural-waist rise on here for years now. I was quite obsessed with this particular facet of dress for some time. We have threads dedicated to it. Poke around the forum.
I had one pair of natural-waist flannels made by that company Luxire. The fit and construction was pretty good but I made the mistake of selecting what must have been the heaviest flannel they offered. They were so heavy that they were practically unwearable in my climate. They may be an option if you continue forward with the custom tailoring. They have a copy option where you send them a pair of pants and they copy the pattern. I haven't tried that and it seems people have had mixed success doing it. I'm not really recommending Luxire, just letting you know about them in case you were unaware.
Scroll down on this example of the "twill chinos" and you can see how you can also specify almost every point of the construction, from pleats, to pockets, to rise.
http://custom.luxire.com/collections/pants/products/sr_206_beige-cream-twill-chinos
You mind me asking what your custom pants cost, Pedro?
Thanks for the thorough and detailed advice, Yuca. Great advice on the belt - subtle but could have a big impact. And I know that I could be much more traditional but I'm enjoying my wardrobe, just wearing what's fun (within reason, of course). Believe, sometimes I go "full Ivy" but sometimes I'm a rebel.
And Worried Man, the pants ran about $300 (I bought the cloth separately, don't remember exactly how much, it was a while ago).
Last edited by Yuca (2016-03-04 14:56:36)
Nice certainly but a different aesthetic to the ones in the ad, which are more my cup of tea.
1.5 cuff or bust, if you're hitching a ride in my truck.