I can't think of any other item of clothing that I have purchased in so many brands, fits and price points as the plain cotton trouser  - and still not achieved perfection

My ideal is driven by an elusive rise to thigh ratio. I want a higher than hip rise but don't want the thighs to have excessive jodhpur-like cloth.

I typically taper chinos to 15" bottom.

The brands I've purchased, in no specific order, include, Brooks, Bills M2 and M3, Balin of Canada, Duck Head, Orvis, Dockers, Jack Donnelly, Hertl, Lands End, J Press, J Crew, Ralph - Polo and Purple Label, Eddie Bauer,  Meyer, Uniqlo, John Simons and probably others I can't recall.

I appreciate manufacturers are always tinkering with specs - fit, country of origin, pricing – so it's almost impossible to create a meaningful apples for apples review but here goes.

Bills M3 are probably closest to my ideal. They're available in variety of materials from heavier brushed cotton through to lighter tropical weights. The M2 is a bit too baggy for my tastes. I should imagine if you've got longish legs they would look better. The Orvis trousers I purchased were similar and went straight back.

If you're looking for a heavier cloth the Jack Donnelly's are also very good. In the UK you'd get away with wearing them for 9 months of the year.

I have a few John Simons chinos. The latest made in India trouser - with or without buckle back– is very good. A lovely soft handle and ideal for the warmer months.

Worst goes to either Lands End or Ralph Purple label. The LE were so thin they were almost see-through around the crotch. The purple label was far too low rise. Serves me right for purchasing under the influence of white wine.

Polo is too difficult to gauge as they're constantly changing their offer. When they're good they're very good.

Brooks Clark Advantage fit is raved about in certain quarters. I genuinely can't see what the fuss is about. File under OK

I used to get a lot of cotton trousers from J Crew when on holiday. Their factory outlet would sell them off for under $15. The rise was good but the legs needed a fair amount of tailoring. My understanding is the 1040 fit is the one that will appeal to most on here.

My first pair of Dockers were purchased from Bicester Village many years ago. They were parallel in cut. Horrible really. Then a few years ago, on holiday in the States, I came across a heavy twill under the heading Pacific Collection Field Khaki. Fabulous material, not too baggy but the rise wasn't great. I had the rise adjusted and they've been good workhorses. Worth hunting out on Ebay as sadly discontinued.

The Uniqlo were cheap and cheerful. You get what you pay for I suppose. Big plus point was the coin pocket that you don't often find on cheaper trousers. Far better than other cheaper options

Both of the Duck Head models I've purchased are now discontinued. I was exceptionally happy with both pairs but they were polar opposites. The first were purchased from JS. Very heavy, made in the USA, superb quality. The second pair were green badge 98% cotton with a bit of stretch. Ideal to take on holiday to sunnier climes. Always look good straight from the suitcase. Sadly they have no current Uk representation.

So after everything what's my conclusion.

Finding your personal perfect fit might not be possible so my recommendation runs like this.

Focus on the rise, as this appears, during the current obsession with low-rise, difficult but not impossible.

Get a good tailor to adjust the thighs according to your preference.

Finally, and this is the most important thing, go straight back to the shop and get every other colour way in the same fit as in twelve months time what you love will no doubt be changed again.

Last edited by AlveySinger (2023-10-10 07:47:57)