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#1 Yesterday 15:22:54

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 956

A TRIP TO ALL BLUES

Theoretically, I like Kamakura Vintage Ivy shirts a lot. Details, material, price and the fact they are influenced by someone who is the real deal.

It took me three attempts, and a visit to their sadly shuttered Madison Avenue store, to get the right size. And then they change specs and you have to start all over again.

To add to my misery last year they created a new popover spec. I have also tried to work out the new cotton suit specs but again the sizing doesn't quite correspond to Western convention.

So in the knowledge that All Blues carried a healthy range I ventured forth-up north.

I was blown away. For those of us of a certain vintage who remember Russell Street being awash with stock and having to slowly navigate through the chaos so you didn't miss something I would say AB's is exactly the same.

It's a remarkably small shop considering the amount stocked.  There was absolutely loads of goodies on offer. In no specific order I spotted Kamakura seersucker Ivy Jackets, JM Weston choc brown suede loafers, bargain melton wool varsity jackets, Camber Hoodies in grey marl, lots of reasonably priced pullover shirts in heavy Oxford tartans, a pile of pink Vintage Ivy shirts and some very nice William Lockie knitwear at sale prices.

There's lots of Japanese fashion magazines, Ivy Books and considered items dotted around the shop (Brooks velvet slippers) to add visual reference points.

At a guess I don't think they have a stock room, so much of the merchandise is displayed in one area and then piled high in another.

My original quest for info was fulfilled. I won't bore you with this but the sales assistant was very helpful.

The main result of the day was discovering a new brand (to me) - although it's been featured on their website since last year – Keaton Chase.

They have a range of pullover shirts in a number of fabrics. My understanding is that KC only produce a small number of shirts and currently All Blues have them exclusively in the UK. They were originally a USA brand but the name was purchased by a Japanese multi-brand operation. I wanted a soft yellow Oxford pullover featuring a flap pocket. Sadly they didn't have this in my size  but ended up with an Autumnal Stewart tartan. Upon close inspection the shirt finish is very good and the fabric weight feels good. Priced at just over the £115 they appear to be really competitive.

Sadly they don't feature a locker loop or third button but the collar roll, fit and flap pocket more than make up for this.

All Blues don't carry much in the way of tailoring but for shirts, knitwear, sweatshirts and a few unusual items I would recommend a visit.

Leeds is pretty cool city. A lot of the industrial buildings at it centre have been repurposed as bars and restaurants so it would be worth a train excursion up there.

 

#2 Today 02:52:13

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 828

Re: A TRIP TO ALL BLUES

Alvey - (as always) ,Interesting & informative post, did you try the Kamakura Ivy Jackets/trousers ?, if so what was the fit like, I've looked at the KC shirts online and they seem big, did you need to down size or were they true to size, comparable sizing to JS shirts ? , I think I've mentioned before I think JS are missing a trick not stocking some of the fairly obscure Japanese brands, maybe they want to put all their resources into their own brand, and I'm sure you didn't come away with just a shirt !

 

#3 Today 04:00:36

sunra
Member
From: London
Posts: 215

Re: A TRIP TO ALL BLUES

Thanks a lot for all the information.
I wondered if you looked at the Bellief coats?
They have a houndstooth overcoat similar to a John Simon's one. The John Simon's coat I'm sure is spectacular but it is way out of my price range.

 

#4 Today 04:18:43

plastic palm tree
Member
From: London
Posts: 215

Re: A TRIP TO ALL BLUES

As I'm occasionally in Leeds to see friends, I made my second visit last month and had some bits from them over the years.  Definitely leading the way in contemporary Ivy modernism - sourcing new brands and curating those that fit the look.  Dangerous place to spend time as you'll want to buy everything.

I ended up with an olive cotton Kamakura suit, I'd wanted one from J Press but on my last visit to NYC I found theirs a little too stiff (and square).  Sized up from my UK size in both trousers and jacket.

 

#5 Today 12:18:06

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 956

Re: A TRIP TO ALL BLUES

Before I answer the above I just wanted to reiterate something. The level of stock was a bit overwhelming so please forgive me if I can't answer specifics to the detail you need.

^Stax, Yes, I tried on the Kama jacket. I'm a 42" chest in everything I own - withe the exception of some JS offering where I have been told to go up a size due to material thickness.

In Kama  jackets I would suggest sizing down  (40" in my case)  - but even then you would need a local tailor to adjust the blades to get a cleaner chest. drape.
I tried on the cotton suit  jacket but the khaki didn't suit my colouring. The seersucker looked superb.

In KC, I've taken my regular medium size. I would suggest that they're bit more forgiving than the Kama.

^Sunra (cool name by the way)  I think you'll find the coats, whilst listed on the website, are sold out. There was a lovely reversible herringbone tweed/raincoat that I was told was the store owners that was hanging by the changing room.

 

#6 Today 12:33:18

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 956

Re: A TRIP TO ALL BLUES

Other things I have forgotten to mention are Felco Sweatshirts that had the V gusset detail in a rich navy blue.

Some Alden suede tassel loafers.

D C White bold stripe shirts. Again the navy looked good and in my mind would pair nicely with dark denim and a navy sports jacket/blazer.

Kamakura Amatora linen button down was very tempting. Lovely bright white fabric but I didn't have the time to try this on. It lacks the locker loop and third collar button. The collar size  is larger and I was told the fit is roomier than Vintage Ivy

 

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