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#1 2006-06-03 06:10:17

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

When you bespeak, do you acct for the fit of the coat while sitting

I read once somewhere -- maybe it was Flusser or Boyer or one of the others Keers perhaps, that
one should always judge the fit of a jacket that you've bespoken, by how it fits when you sit at a chair?

I don't know why this stuck with me, but I'd used it as a test on some of the bespoke suits I'd gotten
in the past.  I wondered if this was a reasonable rule-of-thumb or just some dubious info. I'd picked up
(or perhaps imagined) along the way?

I posted on this a few years ago and I recall Darren Beaman mentioning that he had cut some jackets for
those whose primary task is sitting at a desk whilst being seen (such as TV personalities and other TV news people),
but that was as far as his response (as I recall) went.

Thoughts?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#2 2006-06-03 18:07:22

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: When you bespeak, do you acct for the fit of the coat while sitting


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#3 2006-06-04 06:24:03

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: When you bespeak, do you acct for the fit of the coat while sitting


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#4 2006-06-04 09:33:19

Lord Copper
Member
Posts: 107

Re: When you bespeak, do you acct for the fit of the coat while sitting

The horse is necessary to ensure that the skirt of the jacket properly falls over the equestrian's seat when he's mounted -- especially so that the rear vent does on splay open from being too closely tailored.  It might also be useful in ensuring that the sleeves and shoulders allow full movement when the customer/hunter is moving between the different seats required for trotting, cantering galloping and, especially, jumping.

 
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