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#1 2006-05-18 14:27:02

vonzippa
Member
Posts: 11

Planning Haberdashery?

Hi Members,

I am considering opening a Gentlemen's Haberdashery.  My initial plan is not to offer Suits and Shirts - my thoughts being that if I would bring in Kiton or Oxxford, in my mind I could not justify the price over Bespoke.  So my plan is to bring in Bespoke tailors to my shop maybe two or three times a year.

The items in my shop would consists of John Lobb shoes, Drakes 50 ounce silk ties, Pantherella socks, Zemmerli underwear, Avon Celli cashmere, fine pocket squares, Briggs brief cases, Briggs & Mario Talarico Umbrellas, Catherine Zedah belts & buckles, AG denim, selection of antique cufflinks and watches, classic shaving supplies/colognes, Omas fountain pens, maybe some fine luggage.

Location will be in Houston.  What do you guys think?  Not so much that "will it work?"  Just the concept.

Thanks for the feedback,

 

#2 2006-05-18 15:46:09

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: Planning Haberdashery?

A web store with those products would be interesting, if you could get the lines. I doubt that a single metro market would have the sales to cover retail overheads. That's why Sulka, Dunhill and most of the rest have disappeared.

Consider adding MTM shirts and travelling to various cities as you get established, perhaps with a visiting tailor. Have the shirts made in a low cost country. You should make more margin on them than on the rest of the items combined.


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#3 2006-05-18 22:00:39

maximus
Member
Posts: 265

Re: Planning Haberdashery?

Wouldnt it be better to do it all online? No rent to pay, no employees.


I shall commission a suit:

So let it Bespoken
So let it be done!

 

#4 2006-05-19 11:26:05

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: Planning Haberdashery?

The cost and staff levels of an online store are about the same as for a retail operation. The money goes for different things.

What you get is access to a potentially larger number of customers, so long as what you are selling translates to the web.

Things that translate best are items that are purchased repeatedly, that don't need to be fitted first, and/or where a color match isn't critical. Underwear, hose, shaving supplies, etc.


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#5 2006-05-20 01:26:14

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Planning Haberdashery?

One aspect that hasn't been mentioned here, but I think has been in the past successful to my favorite mens shops is that the shop is a destination or place to hang out.  It isn't just about clothing (though invariably one ends up buying at least something).  A place to shoot the shit, talk culture and politics or sports, etc.  If you make it a place where people go -- a sort of "scene" to catch up with aquaintances, etc., I think that can be in no small part one factor to success.  For example (though there are many), look at the link Grayson posted on Sy Devore's.  Devore had a barber shop, etc.  The place was a meeting ground for people.  A place to socialize.  Hell, maybe you could have a shoe shine guy on saturdays.  I also like the old places because you could drop by with your coat for a professional "pressing" of it -- gratis.  Almost invariably, I'd pick up a little something. I also like places that stock little things like laces, polish, collar stays, etc.  Gives me an excuse to go there and sometimes I'd see a tie that I wanted.  Or something else that'd catch me eye.

I have no idea if your plan (esp. the brands you'd want to stock) will work.  Even though I can usually afford more of the high-end stuff, I tend to be satisfied with majer or corbin (of old) trousers, Troy shirts, Talbott ties, mid-level suits, etc.  I think there's probably more of a market for high-middle than Lobb and Co.  But, considering that the old-school shops (less Press and a few others)  that survive in NYC are pretty up there, maybe I'm wrong.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#6 2006-05-20 17:24:13

bwep
Member
Posts: 13

Re: Planning Haberdashery?

I understand what Mr Grayson states with the Gambert shirtings, however, one of the oldest custom shirtmakers happens to be in Houston:  Hamilton Shirts.  I have been extremely pleased with their offerings for what it is worth.  They come highly recommended by several other bespoke shirtmakers.

 

#7 2006-05-20 21:07:56

padawan
Member
From: NYC
Posts: 100

Re: Planning Haberdashery?

A couple of things about being a condouit to bespoke tailors:

First, make sure that you - by adding an extra layer of cost - provide some service that cannot be had by going straight to a bespoke tailor.

That brings on the second point that there is little you can do to make it worth while for someone to go to your store rather than going to the tailor's shop.  I know that some people are, for instance, reluctant to go to Jon Green precisely because he's a stylist rather than a tailor.  Same goes with Flusser...

 

#8 2006-06-12 23:19:37

jsprowls9
Member
From: Denver, CO
Posts: 250

Re: Planning Haberdashery?

 

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