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#1 2006-06-12 19:48:30

sweetbooness2
Member
Posts: 60

What would your advice be?

A young man posed the following question to me today at the local habadashery. I gave advice, but am far from having the depth of experience and knowledge about such matters as the posters on this forum.

Question: Given a limited budget, and only one area to focus most funds on, would it be better to spend those wardrobe dollars an expensive world class shoe and accessories and a suit of mid-level quality, or vice versa? This particular gentleman had narrowed his choices to the purchase of a BrooksEase suit paired with Edward Greens and Hilditch and Key, or a mtm Hickey Freeman/ Nordstrom label shirt and Allen Edmonds shoes. I estimated the total budget at $1,600.00 to $1,700.00.

My advice was for the former. Frankly, I wish I had begun my sartorial journey with more concentration on the accesorices that set one apart, and truly give a sense of personal style, and the shoe is the foundation of the outfit.

What would your advice be the world class accessory with the mid-level suit or the world class suit with the mid level accessory? I know that Hickey is not world class in the sense of Oxxford/Brioni, but I have always had a soft spot for the brand, since my father wore them many years ago. He by the way, was a man who believed in spending money on the shoe and building upwards from the foundation.

Last edited by sweetbooness2 (2006-06-12 20:34:43)

 

#2 2006-06-12 20:00:06

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: What would your advice be?

If HF has maintained their former level of quality, I think it makes sense to go with the latter option.  Shoe fetishists will protest vehemently, however a suit just covers more real estate, so to speak, and will provide a more far-reaching sartorial expression.  While eyes may glance at your shoes at first sight, a good suit will truly distinguish you in the long run.  Edward Green shoes are certainly handsome,  however they can be very quirky when it comes to fit, and, while expensive, that expense doesn't necessarily correlate to comfort.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#3 2006-06-13 18:17:17

OE
New member
Posts: 4

Re: What would your advice be?

I would think that with $1,600 to spend you could do well all around.  Maybe you won't have a world class suit or world class shoes, but you will can be in the top 5% of all areas.

For example, I got a HF hand-tailored (top of the line) suit from their outlet for $800 + 150 in alterations (working buttonholes and a few other things).  You can get a nice pair of C&J benchgrades for about $400, a Carlo Franco tie for $120, a CEGO custom shirt for $150 and a good pair of socks for $10.  Grant total: $1,630 for a suit, shirt, tie, socks and shoes.  Nothing is really "world class" but it's all near the top as far as quality.

 

#4 2006-06-13 18:46:52

Twin Six
Member
From: WASP in Tokyo
Posts: 1486

Re: What would your advice be?

I would agree with Marc in this case. A good quality suit will look good and wear well for a long time. AE shoes are perfectly respectable and will also last a very long time.

Fit, of course, is paramount, and is easier to achieve in shoes than in a suit. Therefore, I would argue that spending relatively more on a good suit/shirt combo would be likely to get you a better fit and make you appear better put-together than a cheaper alternative.

This said, I pursued the opposite course. I acquired 3 Jos. A. Bank suits for approx. $6 a piece at a thrift shop. They fit reasonably well, and so I spend a great deal more on accessories, knowing I would upgrade my suitings and shirtings as my increasing income allowed.

Nevertheless, if you have the money to spend on a good quality suit that will fit well and be comfortable, better to go for the best you can afford rather than take potluck with cheaper alternatives.

Last edited by Twin Six (2006-06-13 18:48:54)

 

#5 2006-06-13 20:31:22

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: What would your advice be?

I suppose some would advise splurging on accessory pieces since cheap accessories tend to lower the effect of an outfit.

However, since Allen Edmonds are not cheap, that expensive suit route should also work well.


Jukebox Babe

 

#6 2006-06-13 21:10:37

edmorel
Member
Posts: 194

Re: What would your advice be?

Well, I'll have to disagree just becuase I like to disagree, it's the New Yorker in me.  I think nothing sets a man apart more so than a great pair of shoes, pocket square and tie. I have seen many men wearing wonderful suits that no one but the most anal of clothing fetishist would recognize as a great suit. Shoes, on the other hand, quickly make their quality known. I do not like (I actually hate) Allen Edmonds. They are typical American flipper- like shoes. A lot of their models are garish. They may be good quality, but they are absolutely indistinguishable.  A beautiful pair of Crockett and Jones handgrades from plal  (+$400), a wonderful pocket square from Bergdorf's varied collection (+$50) and a Drakes tie (+$100) and a Brooks or Paul Stuart suit on sale for less than $1,000 and he will look like a million bucks. Hickey is very uninspiring and most men are not helped by MTM programs.

 

#7 2006-06-13 21:31:38

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: What would your advice be?

Good suggestion with Crockett.  I had a very positive experience ordering from the US.  Perfect customer service, they even put in steel plates in the toe.  Handgrades are very nice, however their lower-priced collection is nothing to scoff at either.  I think Hickey has since become more contemporary in their style (Not your grandfather's HF) so check them out before dismissing.  MTM might not be  necessary if the store has a good tailor on hand, although so-called cutting fees can often be negotiated away.  Davide Cenci in NYC deeply discounts Drake's neckties during their semi-annual sales and BG also has big sales during the year.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#8 2006-06-13 23:55:10

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: What would your advice be?

I've never had experience with Allen Edmonds although from what can be seen from the website everything tends to look plastic and rather bland. However, I understand they are well-reputed.


Jukebox Babe

 

#9 2006-06-14 01:29:30

Twin Six
Member
From: WASP in Tokyo
Posts: 1486

Re: What would your advice be?

Allen Edmonds shoes are of an extremely rugged construction and could probably survive a nuclear holocaust relatively unscathed. Their designs are all of a traditional round-toed type that strikes me as somewhat lackluster in comparison to their square-toed or chisel-toed English counterparts. Still, I own 5 pairs of wholecuts comprising two models in all the colors offered, and am quite impressed with their level of construction and comfort.

Most AEs are calf, and have a satiny lustre. Their corrected grain shoes are euphemistically called "Polished Cobbler." These I would not presume to vouch for.

I think the thrifty or budget-conscious could get by with one pair of Park Avenues.

All things being relative, thrifty or budget-conscious for me means I begin to trim my purchases at around thirty pairs. The issue is not a surfeit of shoes so much as a dearth of real estate.

 

#10 2006-06-14 06:53:26

sweetbooness2
Member
Posts: 60

Re: What would your advice be?

I agree that the young man in question has a plethora of choices. It would have been better for the store's proprietor to have been on the premises. I am a poor substitute for him, but was much better than the help. As I understand it, he was visiting the area for a couple of days, but lived in Northern Virginia. I know that D.C. has a Saks, and that is where I am assuming the Hilditch goods are. Richmond, Virginia has a Saks, and I was disappointed on my visit. I have purchased Hilditch shirts in years past, and liked them; however, they did not last nearly as long as my staple Gitman Brothers. I have also worn Marol and Brioni, but did not find them as durable as my Gitmans have been, and the Marol was also too trim for my taste.

I could only assume that the young man  was going to Sky Valet for his shoes. I have never visited any clothing stores in D.C., but understand that they have a good selection of Edward Green, J.M. Weston, and Alden. Like other respondents, I wear Allen Edmonds. They are not the must elegant lasts, though I do think the Park Avenue is an exception. I do not own that shoe, but did order a burnished chili Byron yesterday. I do agree that they are a thoroughly acceptable shoe quality wise, and represent a superb value. You can pay more, but not do, within reason,  two or three times better.

As for suits, I should have been more aware. I don't know what it was about BB Brooksease. I did not realize that Brooks was/is having a sale through the end of this month. I think the young man could do well to get a BB Golden Fleece suit for $500.00. These suits are now made from English wool, and I almost purchased one myself at the Richmond, Virginia Brooks, but none was available in a 2 button.

What does an Edward Green shoe run, approximately $900 or so? BB Golden Fleece on sale, Edward Green and Hilditch & Key for $1,600 -$1,700?

Undoubtedly, I posted this question because I knew that gentlemen on this board would be able to provide much more educated/experienced advice. I may be called upon to give my .02 worth again someday.

Last edited by sweetbooness2 (2006-06-14 09:12:25)

 

#11 2006-06-14 08:28:11

edmorel
Member
Posts: 194

Re: What would your advice be?

 

#12 2006-06-14 11:13:38

OE
New member
Posts: 4

Re: What would your advice be?

 

#13 2006-06-14 11:26:53

edmorel
Member
Posts: 194

Re: What would your advice be?

 

#14 2006-06-14 11:59:22

sweetbooness2
Member
Posts: 60

Re: What would your advice be?

I did a search for Carmina on Google. In the LondonLounge forum someone has posted pictures of a visit to the Paris shop. The poster was very impressed, and felt that the leather was better than CJ Handgrade.Yet another maker that I am now aware of through this forum. The shoes I saw seemed to be a better match for the traditionally cut suits like BB, HF, Oxxford etc. than many of the Italian shoes I am familiar with.

I expect the young man in question is shopping at the right time, given the sales at BB, and the assumed Sky Valet visit. With more sage advice than I was able to give, it is possible he could get a Martin Greenfield GF suit, Carmina shoes, a Hilditch shirt(no idea what they retail  for now), and actually stay well under his budget. I do think that Greenfield's suit is of better quality than HF, but am open to hearing other opinions.

I wish he had walked into the shop today. I would have been much more educated, and therefore, more of a sartorial aide.

Last edited by sweetbooness2 (2006-06-14 12:02:35)

 

#15 2006-06-14 12:28:35

OE
New member
Posts: 4

Re: What would your advice be?

 

#16 2006-06-14 12:58:41

edmorel
Member
Posts: 194

Re: What would your advice be?

 

#17 2006-06-14 13:32:51

Tomasso
Member
Posts: 598

Re: What would your advice be?

 

#18 2006-06-14 14:01:36

OE
New member
Posts: 4

Re: What would your advice be?

Last edited by OE (2006-06-14 14:04:23)

 

#19 2006-06-15 12:21:05

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: What would your advice be?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

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