jesmond wrote:
heikki k wrote:
wouldn't that constant learning and knowing that one is never ready but one must learn -attitude be a big part of the mighty thing called 'suss'?
I`d say so Heikki.I love the fascination that comes from constantly learning new things and from re-appraising my own current and former perceptions or ways of looking at things.I like it when others can make me look at things , looks , attitudes or clothing items anew.Constant re-vigoration...The beauty of it is that there really are no rights or wrongs.If there are rules , then maybe those rules just need to be broken.
exactly so. in my - sort of - humorous-ish question i meant just the above. nor being a great writer neither english i find putting my thoughts on paper (or the www if you like) rather hard.
the style councillor wrote:
'Suss' or 'Clued Up' cannot be taught or coached. You either have it or you don't. It's has simple as that. Substitute 'Suss' for confidence, and your half way there. If you haven't got the confidence to stride outside of your front door after earlier peacockin in front of your mirror in the look you have perceived to be the dogs gonads, how the hell can you expect the uneducated eye not to mock? To surmise, it's down to you. You should know what works, if you don't, then you may as well join the masses and buy yourself a track suit and a pair of reebok classics, or some baggy arsed americanised garb, a suit from George at Asda complete with shirt and tie and big cumbersome buckle shoes or head for Sloane St and hit Gucci, Armani, D & G etc and get fleeced for poor quality but top quality marketing/branding.
well put. i especially like tha last sentence with the pun on 'high fashion / branded' items. here i see a lot of clueless well-of people who pay top euro at the local armani etc retailer and think they've got style. those people have got fu--k all, huge credit card limits or fat wallets, nothing else.
the style councillor wrote:
Ahhhhhh, I do believe I have found a kindred spirit, jesmond! What looks ok on someone else might not be my cup of tea, [i.e. the brogues ballinger thread] and I will say so, but that's not to say I expect that person to stop wearing them on my, or anybody else's say so! My outlook is this: If you like, you buy - you wear? The problems arise [IMO] when you put yourself on public forums but then whinge if and when the flack flies. if you don't like the flack, don't post your pics [complete with your clock] for all the world to see and then take the comments all so precious and personal?
For instance, today, I have just been to a business meeting with a very, very wealthy man in a knitted short sleeved three buttoned [grey with red & black piping] limited edition Fred Perry, a pair of black Giorgio Armani needle cords sat flush [no puckering at all in the leg, my pet hate!] on top of my Oxblood Russell & Bromley tassled loafers [£65 in the sale] with blood red pantherella socks. My outfit definetly cost more than his cheap off the peg ill fitted suit, shirt, tie and shoes, but that's another argument for a different day] Now I don't give a flying you know what if he didn't like my attire and I don't get the contract because of it. What you see is what you get and I make no excuses for it. I do not bow or scrape before any man. In fact, I would rather swing from a tree than have someone dictate to me what I should wear [you are free to comment all you like about my sartorial eloquence, but it will make not a jot of difference to me or change my mind], because once they start on your clothing they are effectively telling you how to live. I know full well who I am and what I've got, and no one will change that.
Forgot to add the polarised black Ray Ban aviators to today's garb :-)
Russell_Street wrote:
Only London has Suss. Only London has the concept & the attitude.
Suss is a stone-cold hard evaluation of everything which never stops. It's a ruthless and never ending process which gives London its edge.
An example: Some American will tell you that Alden are the "Gold Standard" of loafers to which a Londoner will reply "Well how good can they be if somebody like you knows about them and is promoting them?"
Adolpho Dominguez was hip in London until Robert Elms was heard to drop his name. R.E. is fine, but if he's talking about A.D. then A.D. is over.
True. Very true. But then it sometimes works the other way.
For instance, I bought some really nice A.D. sneakers the other day. Because I could and they suited me.
A.D is lauded by Elmsy, drops like a hot spud for few years. Then when he's left it alone for a bit you can sometimes have a rethink.
One of the elements of suss I always think is the idea of keeping the squares guessing. For example, I wonder whether, with Baracuta positioning itself and dopes wearing them, the G9 will become a bit overdone and the sort of thing the sussed walk away from.
Last edited by SubtleCool (2008-08-26 12:47:06)
Only London has Suss. Only London has the concept & the attitude.
Suss is a stone-cold hard evaluation of everything which never stops. It's a ruthless and never ending process which gives London its edge.
An example: Some American will tell you that Alden are the "Gold Standard" of loafers to which a Londoner will reply "Well how good can they be if somebody like you knows about them and is promoting them?"
Adolpho Dominguez was hip in London until Robert Elms was heard to drop his name. R.E. is fine, but if he's talking about A.D. then A.D. is over.
Wear Kenwoods & don't take any crap from anybody and you'll be Sussed for this week.
Next weeks rules will be strictly on a 'need to know' basis.
- I'll need to ask Chris_H & John Gall what they are.
Stay Sharp -
Jim wink
Can't let this go without adding my two penneth :-)
1/Only London has Suss - What a load of unadulterated, sycophantic bollox.
2/ Robert Elms is fine - No he isn't, he's just another Cling - On in a long list of Cling - On's whose wrote some shyte books yet because he's got a public platform he's lauded by the SUSSLESS has some sort of expert.
3/ A plant pot in a Baracuta will always be a plant pot in a Baracuta, end of.
Can a mod who always goe for safe accepted mod-choices a la Smedley, tailored strides, Tootal, DNA Groove be consider Sussed?
absolute beginner wrote:
Can a mod who always goe for safe accepted mod-choices a la Smedley, tailored strides, Tootal, DNA Groove be consider Sussed?
Obviously that's very subjective. I'd say the above is a bit lazy ( if that'd be a fair comment ) and at least only sussed in a traditionalist way. Real suss, IMHO mind you, has always been about moving forward and giving a classic look a contemporary twist. I'd venture to state that the essence of Mod is just that: constantly updating that classic style in order to try and stay ahead ![]()
absolute beginner wrote:
Can a mod who always goe for safe accepted mod-choices a la Smedley, tailored strides, Tootal, DNA Groove be consider Sussed?
:-) Like your style AB, unfortunately I do not class myself as a mod, seeing as I take from my Suede, Skin & smooth days and put it all into today's melting pot, plus the fact that you only got a glimpse of a couple of day's of my wardrobe. Horses for courses old boy!
the style councillor wrote:
:-) Like your style AB, unfortunately I do not class myself as a mod, seeing as I take from my Suede, Skin & smooth days and put it all into today's melting pot, plus the fact that you only got a glimpse of a couple of day's of my wardrobe. Horses for courses old boy!
Thanks SC. Would'nt go so far as to say unfortunate, I thought your stuff sounded ok.
The melting pot theory is ok but all too often you end up dimissing your origins (not a bad thing for some!) and end up with bland goo.
Not saying that about anyone in particular mind just a broad generalisation.
col
Basically I think 'suss' has very little to do with 'Mod' as such because after all that was just a ( 60s ) concept. I've mentioned in the past I can't take that whole 'lifestyle' attitude seriously from anyone over, say, 25 for that matter calling themselves Mods ( or whatever ). It's just a hobby slightly outside of the ordinary I find, nothing too special really. I love the whole idea of Mod mind you, but it should be read in spirit and not to the letter, that's where the true clued up thing would appear now wouldn't it ?
No offence meant to anyone, but that's always been how I see it....
Alex Roest wrote:
Basically I think 'suss' has very little to do with 'Mod' as such because after all that was just a ( 60s ) concept. ... I love the whole idea of Mod mind you, but it should be read in spirit and not to the letter, that's where the true clued up thing would appear now wouldn't it ?...
Not my scene since my teens either its often just a pretty crude demonstration of lower class spending power (lots of bitchy cash register looks if you know what I mean) plus everything has to be new which often looks cheap.
absolute beginner wrote:
Not my scene since my teens either its often just a pretty crude demonstration of lower class spending power (lots of bitchy cash register looks if you know what I mean) plus everything has to be new which often looks cheap.
that's a nice way of putting it ! One thing that springs to mind is the preference for ( bespoke, with all the details they found in the book "Mods!" ) mohair suits among these circles. Basically that was the uniform of the Hard Mods from the East End of London ( in midnight blue mostly I believe ) during the mid 60s, once Mod had become established. The originators apparently were more fond of wearing combinations. I can see the sense in that as it opens lots of opportunities to use ones imagination and that sort of thing can still be applied today, with a bit of suss, but it's not necessarily called Mod. Cheers,
Alex
Last edited by Alex Roest (2008-08-27 07:49:13)
absolute beginner wrote:
Alex Roest wrote:
Basically I think 'suss' has very little to do with 'Mod' as such because after all that was just a ( 60s ) concept. ... I love the whole idea of Mod mind you, but it should be read in spirit and not to the letter, that's where the true clued up thing would appear now wouldn't it ?...
Not my scene since my teens either its often just a pretty crude demonstration of lower class spending power (lots of bitchy cash register looks if you know what I mean) plus everything has to be new which often looks cheap.
Go on then, AB, i'll have a bite. Name me one cultural movement in this country that's not been started by those little rascals, the lower classes, come on, I'm all ears.
Last edited by the style councillor (2008-08-27 11:19:04)
How about Fogeyism ?
Or Sloane Rangerism ?
Or Modernists, the essence of UK IL, which started as a middle class movement in the late 50's when MC was MC.
Or Beatniks
Can someone lighten up this thread!!!
RH
There's a place for suits and there's a place for combinations. There always was and there always will be. Apart from that, as far as I know, there was a certain fad in the late 60s for getting two suits made in different shades that went together... Tailors offered bargain prices for two suits, as they do nowadays. So, especially if you were short on money, you went for these options and you got two suits + two combinations at a bargain price...
You know, most mods and skins were working class kids or came from a working class background. It's not like the phantasies some guys have nowadays, these were kids and they weren't that affluent. Tailor made suits were always expensive and most would pay by hire purchase. I also read that a lot of the older faces sold their suits very quickly in order to keep up with the fashions. Midnight blue was indeed the most popular choice, along with other shades of navy and lighter blues. It was probably that popular because especially in the late 60s suits were almost exclusively worn as a smart dress evening choice for nightclubbing. You rarely wore a suit for the pub or for the terraces. That would have been too flash.
Midnight blue or petrol blue is a very smart option at the club. Charcoal grey wasn't that popular, you rather wore a lighter grey, sharkskin, airforce grey, pearl grey or something if it had to be a shade of grey. Two tone tonik in the weirdest shots were very popular, like bottle greeen and burgundy. Apart from mohair, tropical wools were popular, also cotton poplin suits in fawn and olive, seersucker suits, madras jackets and a lot of other stuff. But my point is, that you didn't have to have all these things! You made some choice and you wore this as long as it was fahionable...
Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2008-08-27 17:16:49)
I remember blue worsted suits on mods and side vents on the suits. Before that I seem to recall centre vents were the standard.
I do not remember blue mohair suits. They were mostly light greys. Tans and chocolate browns (not mohair) were also popular in the late 60s
Richmond Hill wrote:
Or Modernists, the essence of UK IL, which started as a middle class movement in the late 50's when MC was MC.
Or Beatniks
Can someone lighten up this thread!!!
RH
Modernists were middle class? What utter tosh. And WTF gives a monkeys about Beatniks, since when were they influential, apart to plums like Dylan Jones, etc.
the style councillor wrote:
Modernists were middle class? What utter tosh. And WTF gives a monkeys about Beatniks, since when were they influential, apart to plums like Dylan Jones, etc.
SC, Suggest that you start researching the subject of Modernists. I don't have to. Also Beatniks I don't follow the link between Beatniks and Dylan Jones, perhaps I will research that one myself!!!
RH
Modernists were arguably the most influential subculture since WW2, I'd agree on that. The point I was trying to make though was that just trying to emulate them is missing the very point, most of those ageing revivalists/traditionalists are pretty dogmatic IMO, whereas the idea of Modernism should be a mere inspirational factor which could/should be interpreted in very different ways.
Also, as I've mentioned before, you couldn't be more original than going back to the deepest root of Modernism : The Ivy League style. Dressing like that might still be 'Mod' in the true sense, when given that contemporary and individual twist. I wouldn't call it that ( the M word that is ) personally, but that too is besides the point really ![]()
^ Tasty banter, Lads!
I have much to catch up on...
... And my belated welcome to Mr. Absolute Beginner - AB are you aware that I came home to an email asking if you were me? These thing happen ...
Best -
Jim
the style councillor wrote:
Can't let this go without adding my two penneth :-)
1/Only London has Suss - What a load of unadulterated, sycophantic bollox.
2/ Robert Elms is fine - No he isn't, he's just another Cling - On in a long list of Cling - On's whose wrote some shyte books yet because he's got a public platform he's lauded by the SUSSLESS has some sort of expert.
3/ A plant pot in a Baracuta will always be a plant pot in a Baracuta, end of.
1/ I think Suss is a London word - Probably I'm wrong as I'm very bad with slang. My Northern chums use the word 'Nous' which I think is similar in some way (maybe?)
2/ Cling is now my word of the day. I think RE has his schtick & makes a nice living from it. I can't see him & me ever going drinking though.
3/ Can't argue with that!
Best -
J.
RH, don't need to do any research, my old fella and uncles [Bow born & bred] were there from the start.
the style councillor wrote:
RH, don't need to do any research, my old fella and uncles [Bow born & bred] were there from the start.
Sounds like the beginning of an interetsing post SC!
col
SC, So, your "old fella and uncles " represents every Modernist?
I am generalising, and talking about Modernists, not Mods. late 1950's
I know this quote comes from Wikipedia, but there is more from more reliable sources, if you care to look.
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While several historians and cultural theorists have argued that mods had originated from working class families, including Hebdige,[17] Mary Anne Long argues that they were mistaken in making assumption, which she argues that Dick Hebdige and others made due to their structuralist ideology. She claims that "first hand accounts and contemporary theorists point to the Jewish upper-working or middle-class of London’s East End and suburbs". Long cites an interview with Steve Sparks, who claims that he was "one of the original mods, one of the real Wardour Street mods. Not the post-commercialized mods". He argues that "Mod has been much misunderstood... as this working-class, scooter-riding precursor of skinheads." Sparks claims that before mod was commercialized, it was essentially an extension of the beatniks. "It comes from ‘modernist’, it was to do with modern jazz and to do with Sartre" and existentialism. [18]
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