Whatever your style of dress.
Here are a couple of mine:
First Jazz record bought. Soft-roll BDs, dark knit ties, Natural Shoulder 'slubby' Mohair or Silk suits, sharp haircuts. I didn't like the suit material and so when I copied the look I used a Medium Grey worsted.
http://www.amazon.com/Bags-Trane-Milt-Jackson-Coltrane/dp/B000002I57
First U.S. film to have a big impression on me.
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0056541/
http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0056541/Ss/0056541/snpauln.jpg?path=gallery&path_key=0056541
Elsewhere in the film are BDs, slimline Ivy suits, cool stuff. From 1962.
So that was how I began. Later on came all the 'up-market' stuff, but all still done with these 'cool' icons in mind.
What were/are your influences?
Miles.
Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-15 05:23:53)
Most important: George Frazier's article " The Art of Wearing Clothes", Esquire, Sept. 1960-read it just before entering college. Also: Walking into Brooks Brothers flagship shop (when Brooks was truly The Brethren) in 1962 and smelling the sweet fragrance of the cedar shoe trees in the Peal shoes; my first bespoke suits from Chipp under the watchful eye of Jim Winston, and my first bespoke shirts from the late and lamented Bowring and Arundel in London.
In the film idiom, the costuming on The Talented Mr. Ripley is simply fantastic. Ann Roth, the costume designer, is fantastic.
Hunting pictures from the 20's through the 60's.
Depression era photographs. How people worked hard to preserve a sense of style and propriety with very meager resources.
Post WWII ivy league and blue collar worker style, both of them equally. I appreciate the tweeds and khakis as much as I appreciate the blue jeans and work boots. The fit and the way men seemed to carry themselves in the proud prosperous years was so much imposing than the weak broken workers of the 80's and early 90's (of my youth) struggling with uncertainty.
And in the last year or so, Allen over at AAAT. Yea, I know, I make fun of him a bit. More than I really should. His use of color and texture is really exciting. The depth of his wardrobe is amazing. Designers like the good Mr. Lauren probably do a better job, but Allen is just a normal guy in a not terribly sartorialy special part of the world that pulls off some amazing stuff. And occasionally falls flat on his face but that's how you know he's really trying. Not just sticking to the old standards. Not his old standards any way, he's expanding beyond what he knows. Sartorially inspiring stuff for anyone who finds themselves in a run and doesn't really know where to go.
I think Allen is in a class of his own. His use of colour is very well worked out.
It's not Ivy League, it's not Americana, it may well be a part of 'Trad' (Not my field of expertise), but what it certainly is is his own look.
Well worked out. Intelligent. Thought over, and presented with style.
He should stand on his own as his style is HIS.
I think his impact should be assessed by the fact that the rules of 'Trad' were altered to accommodate him by our Godfather.
Not an everyday occurrence.
Life is much more simple when we work out the proper names for things - There is the old 'Ivy League' style, there is the new 'Trad' style and within 'Trad' is Allen's own evolution of it all.
All valid styles. Different but good.
One can never have too much style.
And he IS a individual. A big plus point.
Miles.
Last edited by Lord Hillyer (2006-10-15 14:41:54)
Rope!
I have much to say on this.
So why don't I say it?
Do you know 'Swoon', M'Lord?
I posted on it a while back, here where one can do such things.
A remake of the Leopold & Loeb case and a little more 'real'.
I saw 'Giles' from 'Buffy', Anthony Head, play in Rope twice on the London stage in the early 90s (I think). He did it well. He employed a limp. It was on near Leicester Square tube.
M.
I have been reminded that the play was not called Rope.
I have not been reminded what its name was, however.
It made for a good evening.
Even though you knew the story from Hitchcock it was still a nice taut tale.
Punchy.
Grandfather, father, Hitchcock films, Breakfast At Sir Winston Churchills Flem spoon.'s, many films featuring Jimmy Stewart, Metropolitan, Animal House, one or two kids in college, infinite numbers of early to mid 60s films, not all good, often involving people like Tony Randall, Gig Young, and Rock Hudson, and many skinny repp ties, and yes, The Official Preppy Handbook...never would have thought to combine the pink oxford with the old Norwegian sweater without it, nor gotten into club collars.
Last edited by Coolidge (2006-10-15 22:26:41)
Turns out the play of Rope was called Rope after all. I wish my memory was better.
Patrick Hamilton wrote it.
Growing up in CT mainly (summers on Sag Harbor, Weekends at the Wadsworth, Avon Old Farms and Trinity) Ralph Ellison, The Great Gatsby and The Official Preppy Handbook.
So good to see Mr. Ellison's name here.
A Man who should never be Invisible.
Strength & Pride are always Stylish.
http://www.levity.com/corduroy/ellison.htm
Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-16 12:26:46)
Last edited by Lord Hillyer (2006-10-16 15:35:42)
Lord Hillyer, thank you kindly for the above picture ....
Some of my influences include the old booklet that came with the Rolling Stones' High Tides and Green Grass LP (monaural London red label); Jack Lord as Felix Leiter; David Niven; James Coburn; Lee Marvin in The Killers and Point Blank; the supreme George Peppard in Breakfast at T's; Minty Sedgwick and his tweed; Robert Lowell's deshabille; Elliott and Brad Richardson; good old Prof. Archibald Cox; and most importantly to me, a slew of less public people including: my old college chums (ex-Lakeville mafia); an associate prof of HoA/AmStud who sported perfect tan and brown corduroy jackets (he didn't care a whit about his clothes but had perfect taste and the prettiest, nicest wife, just like Olivia Williams from the movie Rushmore); a Locusty pal schooled for a time in Wallingford (skipped college completely but remains king of the hand-me-down ancient 2-buttons-on-the-sleeve Brooks tweeds and, while he has never heard of Alden, knows to get his shell cordovan loafers from Brooks); a prepped-out English teacher who came to our school after years of teaching at RISDE; HA, the late great dean of my residential college who was a history prof and bold tweedmaster par excellence; a trim Japanese Scot who taught in our uni's comp lit dept. and drank Islay, and whose overall J.Pressery was unsurpassed by anybody else I've ever seen (modern honors though to Steedappeal and Dennis of Press Cambridge); my late great civ pro professor, a superb exemplar of how to wear the herringbone tweed suit (ever-so-slightly too loose); a late great federal district judge of my close acquaintance who was the unequalled master of madras, seersucker, loafers with all suits, tan cotton summer suits and all things old-school go-to-hell ('60s Lilly and way beyond); a college drawing master from RISDE who wore the stretched and misshapen Norwegian sweater, frayed, paint-spattered, too-short khakis, and Bean camp mocs the way they were meant to be worn (trashed); my friends from the Andover Shop; so many more, you get the drift. Much love to all of them.
Last edited by stanshall (2006-10-16 18:08:22)
I love the solid blue (wool?) tie with grey flannel on Jimmy Stewart.
Me too.
Good stuff.