All,
Do you think some suits (the combination of the cut, the fabric, the detailing) will elicit specific emotional responses in others? And do you consciously try to match the suit to a specific emotional response in others? I think FNB often touches upon that, but I haven't found a thread discussing that specifically.
I'm curious what kind of suit you would select if you were trying to create the following type of response:
- Trust (say, small business)
- Affection (from the fairer sex)
- Power (over other males)
- Competence (with peers & hierarchy)
- Etc, etc
Do you think the above would vary from country to country and how so?
Cheers,
JD
Last edited by formby (2009-09-17 06:15:45)
Formby,
Point well taken. I completely agree and in my mind it is so obvious that I didn't specify it when I wrote the post. However, you're correct to reinforce that. With this said, there are probably outfits that are less risky than others. A mid-grey flannel 2 button SB 2-piece suite must be easier to pull than a navy pin stripe DB 3-piece one, no? Also, I've found that good fit gives a lot more assurance than could be reasonably expected.
As a side note, I've always found chalk stripes rather less aggressive than pin stripes, funny how one develops those ideas.
All things being equal though, I'm still interested in whether some attires elicit specific responses. Maybe another way to frame the question would be, what would you wear if you were...:
- the CEO of a large company, meeting with your board about a potential acquisition?
- the entrepreneur-owner of a small firm meeting with potential clients, maybe at a trade show?
- a single guy going to hit the bars Friday evening with your pals directly after work in a large company with business attire rule?
- going to the opening night of the symphony in NY? In a smaller city (say Seattle)?
- interviewing for a mid-level role in a prestigious consulting or banking firm?
- etc, etc.....
Cheers,
JD
P.S.: What does WAYWT stand for?
- Trust (say, small business)
Solid Gray
- Affection (from the fairer sex)
No suit. Velvet jacket.
- Power (over other males)
Navy with big, honking City stripes.
- Competence (with peers & hierarchy)
Gray pinstripe.
- Etc, etc
Everything else.
I think universally people react positively to quality, when they can detect it.
For the Americans, they react more to cloth pattern and color rather than the shape of the suit but that's because they're not trained to see a suit's cut. The only time they notice a suit's cut is when it's exaggerated as with the drape style. The soft shouldered suit with flat lying lapels and moderate shaping (but fitted) is probably the most trusted style here. I say this for the usual professions who standardized suit wear. Some occupations may benefit from a different style or cut. For instance, if you were a curator at an art gallery/museum, the drape style may work as part of the quasi effeminate, cultured mystique.
I think Americans react a lot to color. Dark suits scare them a little, and light suits are for dilettantes. When a light suit is cheap fabric, it is considered something someone who doesn't know better and only wears suits occasionally would choose. Americans like medium colored suits or at least feel most comfortable around them
Truthfully, I only notice a few stand outs and when men are wearing cheap looking, ill fitting junk.
Thanks for giving it a shot. Interesting play.
I don't know for sure. Being a French expat to the US, I probably have some of the cultural referents wrong.
With this said, I would think that to inspire trust (the entrepreneur at a trade show), then I, like you, would have selected a grey SB notched lapel. My first choice would have been flannel, and I would stick to a white or blue shirt with a quiet-ish tie, maybe a navy grenadine, or a rep block stripe, or on the other side of the spectrum a good quality printed silk.
For the CEO, I could have gone the DB road instead of the SB 3-piece, but it could go both ways. For me a SB 3-piece is more festive, ceremonial, rather than business, but again I could see it both ways. Definitely agree with the navy, but I would have said pin stripes. I would have put a rather aggressive / assertive shirt, but it would really be a personal preference thing. CEOs have the power, they don't need to wear it on their sleeves. Of course they can do whatever they want. I have seen Fortune 10 CEOs wear plain, quality OTR stuff, and the CFO & other #2's wear oversized Cartier watches & full bespoke... The company culture does matter.
Not sure about the single guy. I would have changed the shirt from business to something else, maybe like those Acorn Noble shirting with the satin stripe on dark field.
For an opening night, I think a navy or midnight SB peak lapel, but 2 -piece, would work fine. Something colorful in the tie & pocket square department would be in order. For a less conservative city, something more fantasy would work - velvet, silk, whatever.
Love that sketch, particularly the decoupling of money and class in the UK that is so often missed by outside observers.
The small business owner at a trade fair (specifically food producer) is one I can relate to. With international fairs the challenge is to work out whether you can get more mileage out of the national or trade stereotype. Sometimes wearing a SBPL navy pinstripe, bengal stripe shirt, well polished oxford shoes and playing the English gent will work best, other times a tweed jacket and cords playing to the artisan producer look is the way to go. For a national show I would go for the artisan look because while people think they are looking for an authentic image they are looking for something that conforms to their stereotype of the role.
The CEO is an interesting because you need to project several different values. I would probably go for a very dark navy chalk striped DB suit in a military cut to emphasise authority and inspire confidence. Pair that with a plain striped shirt, dark maroon tie and black oxford shoes.
Hitting the bars? In New York simply swapping my tie for a florid Duchamp (there is a wide range to chose from ) with the top button undone and the tie slightly loosened. Then play up the Austin Powers / English angle works well.
Last edited by formby (2009-09-18 11:45:34)