What about US workwear, blue jeans, sweatshirts, wool shirts, workboots etc.?
Did the Ivy Shop sell stuff like this in the 60s, too, or was it more like smart Ivy League gear only and all these other Americana started to become more popular in the 80s at JS?
Maybe Pendleton shirts?
And what about the original American shirts sold at the Ivy Shop?
Oxford shirts, solid and candy stripes, and Madras plaids mainly, I guess, right?
Do you remember particular brands? Troy Shirtmakers Guild, Sero The Purist, Gant, Arrow, Tru-Val Career Club, maybe?
What were the important details? The soft roll, unlined button down collar, the stitching, the fit, was it traditional/ full cut only or were there tapered/ slim cut shirts, too? Did you look for a box pleat, or locker loop etc... were flap pockets, flap and patch pockets, or no pockets prefered, and were there 3BDs, and the shirts did they have a 5 or 6 button front...???
What about other styles, patterns and materials?
Forward point "Tennis" collars, snap tab collars, rounded Club collars, pin-through?
Gingham, boxcheck and Tattersall checks?
pullover button down shirts, maybe?
pinpoint oxford, end-on-end, broadcloth? Linen, Seersucker, Chambray?
Were all the OCBDs and short sleeve Madras all 100% cotton, or were there non-iron/ permanent press shirts, too?
Did you also wear long sleeve Madras shirts, or striped ones?
Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-09-23 02:00:33)
Back to shoes: So Desert Boots weren't fashionable during the skinhead era, but what about low-top bucks, and what about welted/ leather sole chukka boots, or maybe Original-Playboy-style plantation-crepe-sole ones?
And, even if all those things weren't worn by skinheads, were they sold at the Ivy Shop for other customers, older blokes who were into Jazz, or those young urban professionals that John Simons wanted to attract originally?
Just been talking to my mate Paddy who is a font of all skinhead knowledge. He agreed desert boots were worn right through the skinhead period. They were possibly a touch more suedehead but were definitly worn and still are on the scene. 'Astronauts' were worn by people who couldn't afford DM's. What about 'riders' and 'dealers'? Anyone remember them?
My "skinead mates" differ in their opinion about these shoes: One of them definitely thinks of them as a typical mid-sixties-Mod thing, and thus a "no, no!" for skinheads, another one even prefers them to DMs, but he likes to think of himself as a "Hard Mod" rather than a skinhead ... both of them only got second hand knowledge of the "original skinhead" subject, though, but they wear rather "traditional skinhead/ suedehead" clothes, usually rather smart, occasionally with a bit of "football/ casual" stuff such as Incontinence pants trainers etc., but no Oi!/street punk or "bonehead" clobber...
Brideshead and Kingstonian are really reliable on the subject, I guess... Maybe it's also one of those things that were different from one area to another? Your friend is maybe talking about further up North, Beatnik?
I think I have seen pictures from ca. 1970 with some kids sporting longer hair and wearing US parkas among a skinhead crowd, too...
We are talking about what was happening up North here Hank. As I said before there is so much regional variation. This is late 60's through the seventies. In that time we also had 'smooths' and 'brolly boys', more varitions of the original skinhead style. Slang terms for styles and clothes also also vary from region to region. You need to write the book Hank.
Thanks a lot! I'm really interested in all this stuff, and it means a lot to me! There are so many myths and stereotypes about these things because people tend to take everything they read in books for granted...
If I just think about "braces" for example... It's like someone wrote that slim scarlet clip-on braces were popular with original skins, and the next generation takes it for granted that all skinheads only had these scarlet braces back in the day (as if it was the only acceptable item)....
I guess, there were other colours, too.
Did you also wear belts? Or maybe, when wearing a suit, the more traditional wider braces, fastened inside with buttons?
Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-09-23 11:40:25)
I'll have to ask OTP.
^ By the time I was aware of Ben Sherman they were slim fit. They may have been better copies before I knew them.
I always thought genuine, full-fit, US-made shirts were a step up on Ben Shermans. Exclusiveness is a part of that. You could buy Bens anywhere in the UK. Good fabrics too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hugY9CwhfzE
Lou Reed sings about the dealer wearing "PR shoes" (=Puerto Rican shoes)... I suppose these were Cuban heeled Chelsea Boots like the Beatles wore them... but I guess, your friend was talking about the regular heeled Chelseas, just with brogue details... I think these Beatle boots must have been a stone age dated thing at the time of Wigan Casino.
^ Yes, definitely regular heels rather than Cuban.
Staceyboy
^ my Sero shirt has something cryptic like:
SA
3706
5364 15
SANFORIZED
8315A