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#76 2009-09-24 03:53:43

Suitedbooted2000
Member
Posts: 577

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

woow, I'm enjoying this.







I think there as bit of a Mod revival in Hertford (which is a surprise, believe me). I keep seeing young blokes in Button down Ginger check shirt, desert boots and jeans (there where a bit too tight but we all got to start some where).








It coming back so maybe the be an Ivy revival too

 

#77 2009-09-24 03:57:06

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Aye. It's all food for your essay, Alex.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2009-09-24 03:57:52)

 

#78 2009-09-24 04:34:22

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

This is great, guys.  So much to digest and will post again later.

 

#79 2009-09-24 05:07:52

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#80 2009-09-24 05:54:13

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#81 2009-09-24 06:14:17

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Sticking with shoes I wanted to come back on the Desert Boot first.

My clear recollection is that Desert Boots were not part of the hard mod / skinhead / suedehead look from around 1969 – early 70s.  But, I am talking about my experience of London and the South East.

Now Solatios.  Don't they now seem shrouded in mystery?   There was a shop in my home town which I believe was part of a small chain, called Mintz and Davis.  It existed from around the early 60s until??.  My first Solatios were from there. They were brown lace up in a kind of Norwegian style but with a slimmer Italian look and feel.  I suspect they were not made in Italy.  My next pair (which incidentally I was criticised by my mates for getting as they saw them as already dated in early 1970) were based on the same style but were black with a basket weave vamp.  They were much slimmer than those depicted either over on MC or in the drawing above.  I remember very clearly travelling to a shop (a sister shop of the above mentioned?) in either East or West Ham in the spring of 1970 to buy them.

Royals - I was talking to John Simons a couple of months ago when I bought a pair of Florsheim Imperial Longwing Burgundy brogues.  I asked him to compare the Florsheim, the current Royal Brogue by Loakes (which, of course he also stocks) and the Royals of the late 60s.  Good old John gave very good value as usual.  First he dismissed the current offering from Loake as 'embarrassing really' - certainly when compared to the Florsheim in terms of quality and overall finish.  He produced from his cupboard an original burgundy Royal and pointed out the one continuous piece of leather on the 'waist' of the shoe where the new Loake has two pieces joined.  I asked him again if Loakes made the old Royals and he replied that they were made by the company that made shoes for Timpsons.  I think Russell has mentioned this before....

Loafers - I recall that Lotus shoes made a good loafer and in this pic from 1971 (AAAC piece) I am pretty sure that's the make of mine.  I got them in Brewer Street from a shop called either Anglo-Continental or Anglo-American - anyone know?  The shop was almost opposite the Squire Shop.  The photo is not good enough to reveal the basket weave on the vamp. 

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57062&highlight=skinhead+smooth

Belts - No belts for me back then.  Trousers were generally 'self-supporting' or held up by braces (which I hated actually).  Even when trousers started coming with belt loops as standard issue there was a reluctance I recall to adopt belts.

 

#82 2009-09-24 06:15:34

Chris_H
Ivy Original
From: Watford
Posts: 1666

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Last edited by Chris_H (2009-09-24 06:19:11)


https://www.facebook.com/groups/hardyandjohnson/

 

#83 2009-09-24 06:19:58

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

The current Bass 'Kiltie' fringe and tassel loafer.  Cordovan?  Not for £85!  But it reminds me that burgundy Royals were marketed as 'Cordovan' colour.

http://www.oipolloi.com/store/BassWeejun-LaytonShoeBurgundy-3877.html

 

#84 2009-09-24 07:23:49

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Last edited by Alex Roest (2009-09-24 07:24:32)

 

#85 2009-09-24 08:52:05

heikki k
The Ivyist's Ivyist
Posts: 1442

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#86 2009-09-24 11:52:22

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

What about trousers?

Khakis/ Chinos were not that common in London, only bought by a few Ivy purists - at least that's what I got from reading older threads here...

So I guess it was mainly Levi's Sta Prest (and copies or similar styles), along with blue jeans and needlecord jeans. Levi's 505 (with a zip-fly) might have been more popular, or rather more easly available than 501s at the time I read. Other types were Lee Rider and Wrangler.

Denim was usually blue, I suppose, but maybe black or white was seen as well? I guess, at that time they were always bought in a dark indigo, but from what I read, it must have been cool to get a faded look very quickly, so kids probably bleached them or got other ways to make them look worn. Were they always shrink to fit, and was it common to take them to the bathtub?

Cords probably tan, olive and shades of brown, cut like a 5-pocket jeans.

Sta Prest were probably usually very light colours, white, off-white/beige, light grey/stone, ice blue, airforce blue, maybe black as well. Nowadays there's a check version. No idea if this goes back to an older model. And I read about Two-Tone Tonik versions, but maybe this was just confused with suit trousers. There were also cord versions with that permanent crease...


Did I forget something? Or am I wrong about something?

Were Chinos more common than I thought? What about wide wale corduroy, or grey flannel trousers?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#87 2009-09-24 11:54:44

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Sta-Prest were introduced in 1964, I read somewhere. What about the popularity of Chinos with London modernists before that time?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#88 2009-09-24 12:02:43

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Oh, and about the cut: I think in the early 60s the fashion for trouser bottoms was between 14" and 17", late 60s, early 70s it was rather 18" up to 20". 20" sounds like flared already... That's at least what I got from the Richard Barnes Book about Mods, and from Nick Knight's book on Skinheads...

So Sta-Prest trousers came with wider trouser bottoms at the end of 60s, too?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#89 2009-09-29 09:53:32

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

weren't the Solatios/Crossovers more of a 70s shoe rather than 60s?

Never thought of them as anything "mod" related, more of a skinhead-suedehead shoe.  Personally I think they're ghastly but I understand it's part of the "original heritage" tho imo not everything "authentic and original" needs to revived, and maybe some things are better left in the past.  I know on a UK skinhead forum I post on (mostly traditional styled skins) one fella is working on trying to have them remade for forum members, as he is in contact with the factory and has even met the fella that designed the original Solatio.  He's also doing a reissue of the Hawkins Astronaut boots that are made to original specs for forumites, in the original dark brown color with 11 eyelets.

since the US mod scene was brought up briefly....I remember it quite well in the 80s, I originally got into 2Tone via mod kids at my school when I was 13 or so, back in '83.  It was really big until about 86ish.  But I was never a "mod" and if anything the only label I've ever adopted was "skinhead".  There was quite a bit of mod-hatred among local skins back then, and it wasnt uncommon to see skins beating down mods and trying to steal their scooters.

 

#90 2009-10-07 05:08:14

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

A bit of a delay in responding - been on a short city break to Dubrovnik.  Not much Ivy style there!

http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_skinhead.php

I don't know this site but if you scroll down to the discussion and down to 'Some fashion memories of ....' there is reference to the 'light Solatio' as being worn in the 60s.  This accords with my own experience.  The 60s Solatio was indeed light and based on an Italian design.  The later ones seem to have conformed to the basic 70s model of chunkiness (and extreme ugliness IMO) and it would be a crime against footwear to revive them!!

Last edited by Brideshead (2009-10-07 05:10:54)

 

#91 2009-10-07 05:23:55

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Yes, I was thinking about this... There's an illustration on the first page of the fashion pages in the Nick Knight book that shows some Continental type of loafers, and it says they wore French or Italian. Maybe something lightweight, with a higher vamp?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#92 2009-10-25 09:58:43

loempiavreter
New member
Posts: 8

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Last edited by loempiavreter (2009-10-25 10:06:15)

 

#93 2009-10-26 02:34:52

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

^ A very nice debut to the forum, Sir - Welcome!

Best -

Jim

 

#94 2009-10-26 05:38:16

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Yeah good work Loem... er lowempre... er Lowell... We will have to give this cat a nickname...

 

#95 2009-10-26 06:25:56

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#96 2009-11-06 13:29:16

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Loem...good to see you here.  This is "maximum" Jason from UKS, the fella that sent you the loafers. cheers

 

#97 2009-11-08 14:54:39

baxta59
Member
Posts: 117

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#98 2009-11-08 14:58:30

baxta59
Member
Posts: 117

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#99 2009-11-09 14:09:35

loempiavreter
New member
Posts: 8

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#100 2009-11-09 14:43:40

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Welkom Loempiavreter. Hmmm loempia's.

 
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