For those who are interested in superfines, Harrisons have a new bunch called Multi Millionaire - 10 oz cashmere/vicuna suitings.  Some of the stripes are really gorgeous and the cloth has more guts than even some super 100s and 120s.  It demands the best tailor and hands you can find.

A note on H. Lesser's fabrics.

People constantly bandy the idea that they make the "best"  without examining what that is. H. Lesser doesnt make anything, they order from the mills. Their claim to fame is that the ingredients are the very best and that the finish they ask for on the fabric is that old city of london, ultra-matte one. Additionally, the distributor of their cloth in the USA seems to mark it up a lot more  than do other distributors for other merchants; which to American minds adds to the sense of the "best".

I like Lesser's it's true but I like a lot of cloths and I have a sizeable wardrobe. I do not mind that it makes you look older but the average client of my tailor is much older and frankly they dont want that old fashioned look. No one ever orders Lesser's there. They want Scabal, Holland and Sherry, Dormeuil, loro Piana. To those who know what theyre messing with, if you still like that Tory look from the past, then do pick Lesser's. But you cannot compare Lessers cloth to Scabal and say that Lesser's is better. That's like comparing a beautifully made horse buggy to a lexus and saying the buggy is better.

So word up as a service to men who havent gotten a lot of custom garments yet, you may want to consider the finish on your suit fabric as an element of how people will view you. In the USA, unlike London, youth is an every day concern. If you want to look contemporary, then consider Harrisons, Dormeuil, Scabal, Loro, H&S (Although stay tuned to whether they start making this cloth in Asia).

I see these retro guys on these boards and they love these 16oz suits. i think that's wonderful. I also think it's a disservice to make the average person think they need to slip into those weights. There are exceptions, if you run an antique book store and youre a bit eccentric, then a 16oz flannel might add to the ambience. But for those reading these MBs if you work in a mainstream company, and you want to look nice but not outlandish, Id stick with the super 100s and 120s from the better merchants who have moved into the modern era. The modern era contains a bit more sheen and fineness to its cloth and it's ready to go for your needs.

The Lessers takes a trained eye to appreciate and some confidence to wear because it makes a statement, even if it's a silent one. Sometimes I like to make it, and sometimes I like the more updated cloth. In what situations? Well, I keep writing about it. Suffice to say that Lessers is not right for the American personality unless he is in a retro profession or he is really a conoisseur of clothes.

It is interesting to note that even lessers are starting to update themselves. This new book of 120s and cashmere that they make is a step in the direction of the contemporary. They may be finding a way to marry the past with the present.

I generally like both Harrisons and Smith more than I like Lesser.  I know that this is sacriledge around the various MBs, but at this level it is mostly personal choice.  Don't let anybody tell you that there is only one really great cloth supplier out there.