Does anyone have any ideas on who makes a genuine drape suit? Especially for the rtw market?
Also any opinions or photos of drape suits and why they do or do not work today as a suit?
Are there any people of substance who wear this model of suit?
I dont want to necessarily dominate this thread, id rather hear people's impressions even if youre not an "expert" please feel free to give our opinions about this style, and indeed any style which you might think is better or worse.
Drapes look nicer on curtain rods hanging in the living room. Admittedly, talk about "drape" is mostly confined to the message board fora community as few men in the outside world genuinely care to adopt a look originated three-quarters of a century ago by a rather obscure tailor in England. Similarly, few men have an over-powering desire to wear Zoot suits, which were sort of an Americanized adaptation. A properly-made suit will allow for ample room in the chest and shoulder blade areas for the purpose of freedom of movement of one's arms and shoulders. Anything more is excess cloth and unattractive, at least in my view, in that it doesn't flatter the human form.
I don't care either way. But I've enjoyed the discussion here:http://styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=23678
which I found very civil, despite a few cackles here and there. The one picture that I saw posted here of a current drape style I didn't like. It enveloped the wearer.
Another discussion of drape, referencing this board as well as styleforum.
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6265
Having struggled through that LL link, I'm still confused. In fact, I've always been confused about "drape suits". The LL guys seem a bit YES/NO about it too. Is it a construction style? Is it a feeling one gets wearing a bespoke suit? So what IS a drape suit? Just a copy of everything the Duke wore?
Late at night when the sweats come on and the voices have their strongest grip, I wonder if the "drape suit" is clever marketing foisted on buyers of bespoke suits by artisans. I suspect most men would look as good in a properly adjusted BB #1 sack as they would in a $5,000 bespoke drape suit.
How do people stay awake reading the LL threads? The pompousness of the posters is only surpassed by their meaningless long winded diatribes. If you do not own a drape suit, you can not comment on it. Please. Lets apply that to all things, movies cars etc. And what is all this movement that people are doing which they cannot do in a more form fitting suit? My jackets have no drape, yet I am able to grap onto a subway pole, hail a taxi, tie my shoes etc with the jacket buttoned. Are these gentlemen using shovels or pick axes in their daily line of work?
FNB, to answer your question, don't know, don't care.
Last edited by edmorel (2006-11-06 10:57:06)
I think that both threads are interesting. Good and bad drape on both. Another alternative to be sure, but not the only alternative.
As contributions by non-experts were solicited, I shall contribute what meager thoughts I have. It seems remarkable that this elusive "drape" cannot even be adequately described, unless I missed something on the SF thread. Whatever it is, it appears to be very hard do well, or even passably; thus, it has small utility for those who do not, as FNB noted, live in a fitting room. It also appears that if one even hopes to obtain the perfect drape, one must be as thin as a stick, if not as gaunt as an ascetic who survives on crusts and tepid tea. The garments displayed that all agreed were properly "draped" were as affected as a Zoot Suit, another observation of FNB's, and about as useful. In sum, I believe FNB summed the matter up well: whatever its antique virtue, "drape" has seen its day. However, the thread was qute interesting.
But what do I know?
Last edited by Voltaire's Bastard (2006-11-06 12:37:40)
A properly fitting jacket is comfortable and moves with the body, regardless of being a "drape" cut or not. Assuming the jacket is well tailored, drape is just a styling feature that works well for some builds and can be executed nicely using relatively hefty fabrics. In my case, having a large chest I find the drape style incompatible with my build. Select the style you find most appealing on you, which may not be what others claim to be more elegant by default or to have better pedigree.
After reading that LL thingy, I get a feeling some of these guys who like the drape are not interested in a true exchange of ideas.
Last edited by Voltaire's Bastard (2006-11-06 13:45:05)
Last edited by Voltaire's Bastard (2006-11-06 13:44:32)
Fortunately, the StyleForum thread has cleared up my confusion. Illustrations are really worth a thousand words. But it seems to me that the "drape suit" is actually a "suit with drape characteristics", since the focus of the drape is the upper chest just to either side of the armholes. Does the drape affect more than that? The photos posted by iammatt(?) on StyleForum suggest that the suit is rather ordinary in shape, except for the drape.
I think we can look to Joe Jackson for the definitive statement on drape, in his song, "Shape in a Drape"...
There's a guy going round the town
You got to check what he is puttin' down
Just one look you know the story is great
He's the guy the chicks love
And the cats can't hate
He's a shape in a drape
A shape in a drape
He's a shape in a drape
And you can dig that he is stookin'
Now some say he's a clipster and a tailor's toad
And he could hype a miserman for all his gold
Some say he's a hipster and some say nix
But everyone's solid when he gets his kicks
He's a shape in a drape
A shape in a drape
He's a shape in a drape
And he is sure alive and kickin'
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2006-11-06 17:47:22)
Ironically, the "extra cloth" and "freedom of movement" arguments used FOR the drape suit are exactly the same arguments used FOR sack suits. But the sort of person who would seek out a drape suit seems to be the sort of person who might toss paint on a sack suit, at least literarily.
I have always wondered how Anderson's inherited the "DRAPE" from Scholte. Is there some sort of story to know?
At the risk of committing MB heresy, Scholte was overrated. I had the opportunity to inspect the Duke's Scholte-made clothes up close and personal at Sothebys some years ago and was really underwhelmed by what I had seen, especially the crude, poorly executed, uneven stitching, devoid of any artistry. My own tailor would never accept such sub-standard workmanship. The whole drape thing is much ado about nothing, really. In fact, filling the chest and blade areas with excessive cloth in order to create the illusion of fullness and muscularity is kind of amateurish. Achieving the same effects with proper balance, and without having the client swimming in cloth, is far more challenging, requiring an elevated level of tailoring skills.
Edit: http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9E01EFDE153DF935A35751C0A96E958260&sec=&pagewanted=print
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2006-11-06 23:56:40)