By Taki Theodoracopulos (National Review, 1995)
I RECENTLY attended a London party in honor of a political writer, for which the invitation stipulated black tie. Having put on my finest, I arrived at my host's rather grand house to be met by as many as twenty young men wearing sweaters and jeans. At the start, I felt embarrassed for the few among them I knew, but after a while it dawned on me: I was the one out of place. England, alas, has taken a page out of Hollywood and David Geffen. No one with serious political or artistic aspirations believes that wearing a necktie is the proper thing to do.
But before I go on, a word or two about slobbism. They say that the rich are getting richer and the poor poorer, but as in everything the "cultural elite" of the Left tells us, nothing could be further from the truth. The rich are getting poorer, as far as I'm concerned, because they try to look so poor. Everywhere one looks, there are people with horrible haircuts who think wearing sweat suits is okay at whatever age and size they happen to be.
In America, slobbism has been elevated to the realm of political correctness. Film stars such as Daryl Hannah and Michelle Pfeiffer always look like the proverbial things the cat dragged in, while such male stars as Dustin Hoffman and Al Pacino have made of deliberate drabness a political statement. We may be multi-millionaires, with tens of cars in our garages, houses all over the globe, private planes and yachts, but we're one with the common man.
The rot really set in during the Six-ties, that decade for which we are still paying a hell of a price. The "let it all hang out" ethos has stayed with these pushing-fifty slobs, and there's a lot more hanging out nowadays. Ironically, the people who regard themselves as a cut above--journalists, artists, film and television people--actually look down on those who dress to beautify. The War Hero in the White House is, of course, the best example. As a modern politician, he is so anxious to be personally loved by voters, he has forgotten what public life is all about. He has arrogantly adopted a private manner in public with little sense of the dignity of his office. If one loses all idea of the dignity of public life, one loses the idea of its point. Talking about one's underwear on television may be acceptable to Oprah Winfrey, but in reality it is a sickness of a people who have gorged on too many afternoon television programs.
Back in 1971, as slobbism was starting to go mainstream, I met the beautiful actress Jennifer O'Neill at a dinner. I wore an Anderson & Sheppard double-breasted blue suit, with black shoes and a white shirt. When I was introduced to her, I rose and shook hands. She looked startled, then began to laugh.
"Why so formal?" she asked.
"Because I'm not from Hollywood," I answered--although, mind you, I was not completely right. Gary Cooper, Clark Gable, Van Heflin, Fred Astaire were wonderful examples of pedigreed dressing, and I would have been proud to dress as they did.
Nowadays, male suits are regarded as a buttoned-up form of dressing. Those in "creative" professions wear anything but the traditional suit, preferring shapeless forms and baggy pants. The younger generation refers to those of us who dress properly as "Suits," meaning repressive and boring. For my part, I find their contrived dishevelment stultifying, extremely conforming, and utterly predictable.
A beautifully cut traditional suit is a symbol of respect for one's self, also of power and good taste. There is nothing that gives me more pleasure than going into my closet and picking out a fine, light linen suit during the summer, or a light striped flannel in winter. The double-breasted suits I prefer are shapely, shadowing the torso. I dress for status rather than function, and the added pleasure comes when I go into one of those nightclubs full of people dressed in "grunge," or whatever the expensive rags they wear today are called. That is the only time my age and weight do not stand out among the young and the thin. In fact, that's the only time I feel superior.
Yes, I suspect the '60s were the time of when things started to fall apart, so to speak, but the '60s was also the time when traditional and "hip" could still go together; you could wear a Tommy Nutter suit while driving a two-toned Mercedes-Benz 280SE coupe. Now, that's impossible as a cultural ethos.
Last edited by Incroyable (2006-11-13 00:20:32)
Interesting article, Marc. Back when Taki wrote that it was almost dangerous to wear a suit, a sure sign that the wearer was unhip, square, uncool, the kiss of death for any up-and-comer in society as well as the arts.
But I think things are changing. And that's the upside. The downside, and I could very well be wrong, is that The Suit has now become the new status symbol, certainly in places like New York City.
The problem is cost is equated with quality, the reigning styles, designers and tailors equated with good taste (as it was in the go-go '80s). There's a lack of creativity and fundamental knowledge. Flipping through the channels last night I caught Glenn Beck, the new mouthy talk show guy on one of the cable channels, in the middle of a rant about the elections. What he had to say about politics wasn't very interesting, but his attire was riveting. He'd switched from the T-shirt/jacket or open collar shirt/jacket ensemble to a full-on suit treatment that was hypnotic because it was so bad.
But you could see he was trying for a kind of nattiness. Striped jacket, striped shirt, and a Rep tie or at least a tie with a pattern, and pocket square. Gotta give him kudos for trying, but, man, was he way off. The stripes of the shirt and jacket were of almost equal width, so there was no balance, and the tie, rather than complementing the insane verticality of the jacket and shirt, clashed loudly, almost as if he or his wardrobe person had suffered some kind of neurological fit when they were putting all this together.
He's kind of chubby, too, but instead of a suit with a lot of drape, like the attractive types worn by a rather hefty Jay Leno, he had on one that was of a tighter fit, so it pulled at the buttons, creating shadows and the stuffed-sausage look. How could he go so very wrong?