I think the safe bet is matching the lapel texture, which Ive been known to do.  I think if you want to look less prepackaged and more old boy, you'd wear the faille or grosgrain one.

You will also bring all the anal nerds out who will need to point out that they should match which might provide you with some amusement.


Recently, Ive developed an appetite for the square charvet look, and it's a dashed good thing I bought a black satin one on sale years ago because the charvet bow tie prices are out of line. I wish I had gotten a grosgrain one.

Somehow the Carrot and Gibbs one looks better quality but that could just be a trick of better photography. I also like it's thicker shape, Im dead against the tight, perfect bow tie for black tie.

Ive also been meaning to call Budd and get a sized one made. Wait, was there another place that custom made sized bow ties in England? Seems I had a link.

My old black tie is in the now unfashionable shawl lapel style & I have a ratty old bow to go with it that is a quite narrow-ish butterfly (sounds odd I know. It has the shape of a bufferfly but the proportions of a batswing. It's vintage Hawes & Curtis.) The proportions of tie & lapel seem to be right. Not that I've ever worn it much...