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#1 2010-06-29 08:05:21

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

For 'English' read 'British'.  I've no beef with the rest of the UK. 
Back in my pre-John Simons days, when I went from what I thought of as 'prep' to 'smart mod', I lived in Bladen, Powe, Hardy, Magee etc. and wore Loakes more than anything.  I wore a decent, expensive crombie and carried a pre-war umbrella with wooden tip and silver band.  I even fussed over my hair a good deal. 
I had a depressing time this morning, looking over the tat in the high street - albeit with no intention to buy.  Secondhand, I saw once again some of the good old English names, and felt pretty confident the stuff wasn't run up by non-unionised Chinese workers suffering mental and physical intimidation.  We must care about where our clothing comes from, just as do our food.  I tend to dislike English shirts, with the exception of Viyella, and will never cease to want to buy Brooks old stuff.  But, for outerwear, jackets and knitwear - and probably shoes - might not English now be preferable?  So long as the shoulders aren't stupidly padded etc. etc. names like Rodex make a nice addition to the wardrobe.
In a way, I suppose I'm lucky.  I'm passed fifty now and I've got pretty much everything I want besides a 21, a plain grey 100 per cent cotton sweatshirt and a second pair of Dexter bucks.  It's the younger lads I feel sorry for, like Colin.  I can sense his frustration.
Also, of course, I want to avoid the 'mutton dressed as lamb' thing.
I think Kingstonian, Chris H and Brideshead might have interesting comments to make here, on shoes and general tailoring.  This is not a revolt against Ivy, only a suggestion.

 

#2 2010-06-29 08:29:11

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

Please cross-reference to GGs contribution on the John Simons' thread.  I've been brooding over this just lately, thinking about past remarks on Alan Paine, J.M. Weston, Viyella, Grenfell etc. then handling and eyeing some of the just too colourful and artificial American-made gear.  Bright orlon and acrylic.

 

#3 2010-06-29 09:18:17

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

I am lazy, so I had to be forced off the High Street. Saxone always had leather shoes. Then when they went M&S had at least a  few. Now nobody does, so you have to go looking for them and open you wallet a bit more than for the High Street.

Other things occupy your thoughts apart from clothes as you age - but  you still want to look half decent.

Northampton suits me as I have a sister in the town and I like supporting an English craft in a small way.

The danger with English stuff is that if you buy the whole kit and and caboodle you can look like a stereotype - right down to your silly tie with pheasants on. So pick wisely.

The other guys are more enthusiastic than me and will have their own take on it.

It was really annoying at work when a loud North American woman said no ties for a group photo. I had to insist that I would be wearing a tie. I really hate that 'suit and no tie' image that business folk think gives them an approachable, man of the people image.

 

#4 2010-06-29 11:24:02

adam!
The Future
Posts: 608

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

Scottish shetland(Andersons?), bespoke flannels or slim sta-prest from jumpthegun, good vintage shirts are easy enough to find in LDN...find one and have it copied, Loake royals or some kind of loafer. All English(British...) and could give you "the look".

Coats are a bit funny though...raincoats, not too hard, but wool ones are a bit hard.

 

#5 2010-06-29 12:28:48

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1365

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

Indeed. I went round the shops today to kill some time with my mates, and I realised truly how bad the high street stuff is. There is charm in clothes that are well-made (it's the old cliché, but it is true - getting better with age as you wear them). I really try and get stuff which is made in USA or UK where I can.

I have real trouble getting decent stuff to fit me (tall and slim). Getting a proper collar roll in oxford cotton in a slim fit for me is near impossible. I would have to go to London to try and pick up something second hand, but I can rarely get there. Milton Keynes or Birmingham are very limited at best (I might post up in the for sale thread for shirts, in fact!).

I DO have a dark navy gloverall duffle coat, which may not go down too well with everyone here. I think it helps give a nice english (re)take on the look.

But what I would do to pick up some proper, well-made wingtips, shirts, madras shorts, trousers and ultimately a sack suit! The list of what I can't get is almost endless. Thanks to the people on here for helping me to start to get a decent wardrobe together.

 

#6 2010-06-29 13:43:33

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

 

#7 2010-06-30 02:16:17

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

 

#8 2010-06-30 02:23:42

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

 

#9 2010-06-30 02:41:28

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

Having had time now to reflect upon yesterday's shopping expedition - to Nottingham - the balance is tipping in the direction of 'Celia's', specialising in vintage, top quality English menswear.  Enough wool in there to cover a whole flock of sheep.  The 'Americana' is beginning to look tired in comparison, although the golf jackets by London Fog are still appealing.  Desert boots by Roamer - not for me - I once had a pair - Johnny Simons had a little tear in his eye.  The style has improved a little bit, however, and they are inexpensive.  For the younger lad, worn with jeans or cords, okay.  But the English leather shoes are top.  There was a pair in a cabinet I almost pulled out my debit card for, and the only thing holding me back was the thought of my wife murdering me...

 

#10 2010-06-30 03:24:16

Chris_H
Ivy Original
From: Watford
Posts: 1666

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

Worthwhile British-made clothing in my wardrobe:
Knitwear:
Lochcarron: cashmere cardigan
Smedley: various polo shirts and cardigans in sea island cotton and merrino wool
McAdam: shetland crew
Shoes:
C&J Harvard loafers and a couple of pairs of suede chukkas, also Alfred Sargent and Sanders chukkas
Tailoring:
Three jackets and a suit from George;
Vintage Hawkes & Sons Covert coat in cashmere (with a royal warrant for George V on the label) from JS.

I've not bought from M&S lately, but I've got varoius 5-pocket jeans and cashmere crew-necks from a few years back that are ok.

Since the late 80's I've bought mostly in the US whilst on holiday, also in the last 10 years US vintage stuff from ebay really.


https://www.facebook.com/groups/hardyandjohnson/

 

#11 2010-06-30 03:29:05

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

 

#12 2010-06-30 04:19:08

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

I've got some Roamers! Cheap & cheerful - That's me!

 

#13 2010-06-30 10:42:39

adam!
The Future
Posts: 608

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

Roamers are real horrors. Might aswell get clarks - atleast they have the heritage!

Everything can be found vintage in LDN. Sacks, trousers vespke, shirts vintage and wingtips english from strutton ground or blackmans. Patch madras shorts by murrays toggery shop in one brick lane store.....prep yah, but so rare in LDN that they're beyond cool!

 

#14 2010-07-01 00:59:32

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

You don't like the distinctive 'Donkey's Hoof' profile of Roamers?  wink

 

#15 2010-07-01 01:58:28

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

Not as bad as they used to be, but still not good enough.

 

#16 2010-07-01 08:46:35

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

They need leg irons above them to really set them off!

 

#17 2010-07-01 09:39:36

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

There was a very soft, very dark brown, flecked Harris Tweed jacket in 'Celia's'.  Would have bought that had it fitted.

 

#18 2010-07-07 05:33:58

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

I wonder if Chris, Kingstonian etc. know of any decent, old-fashioned menswear shops in and around London?  I used to like Smalleys in Nottingham, but they keep such odd hours.  Good for knitted ties.

 

#19 2010-07-07 07:28:19

Cardinals5
Member
Posts: 383

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

British goods have a sizeable presence in my closet - mostly outerwear, sweaters, ties, a couple of odd jackets.  Love British shoes, but I'm a confirmed Alden, AE, Florsheim, Hanover, Nettleton type.  Are/were there any British makers of ocbds with a great collar roll?  I see many on this forum favor Sero, Gant, BB, Gitman(?) etc., but was wondering about British button-downs.

 

#20 2010-07-07 07:33:34

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

 

#21 2010-07-07 07:37:54

Cardinals5
Member
Posts: 383

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

 

#22 2010-07-07 07:40:03

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

I can go through several hundred shirts during a morning or afternoon and find nothing worth wearing.  Not even borderline really.  It's really got to be 100% cotton, made in the USA, England, France or Italy for me to even look it over.  I much prefer to travel and see Stuart, Sero, Blacker, Arrow, Van Heusen etc. and even then nothing is guaranteed.

 

#23 2010-07-07 07:42:12

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

 

#24 2010-07-07 07:43:51

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

English charity shops are stuffed full of Ben Sherman.  He has a lot to answer for.

 

#25 2010-07-07 07:50:08

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: English: Might This Be the Way to Move Forward?

Smedley is still rated over here.  Mostly polo shirts in sea island cotton.  Their merino is also good.  I used to live close to their mills.

 
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