Before you buy a suit or a shirt and aside from fit, does anyone consider the unique details of a make of suit or shirt and how they make make them stand apart?
RTW Ivy in England being in very limited quantities I usually look first for the cut/style and then see what colours/fabrics are available.
It was this less than ideal process that lead me to shopping trips to the U.S. & getting bespoke/MTM items made up.
Life is easier now with the net.
The Ivy League style is first and foremost a cut, I think. The colours & fabrics follow on.
It's not Ivy unless it's natural shoulder (for me).
t.
Yes, but I was thinking that certain cuts signal certain things to certain people...if you see what im saying?
In Naples does a beautifully made Savile Row suit mark you as well dressed or as someone not playing by local rules.
Does a beautful suit from a NYC tailor mark you as well dressed in London or are you not part of the crowd?
Ahhhhhh - I gotcha.
Thus endeth the lesson.
If I see a Savile Row suit, cutaway collar striped shirt, and brown suede shoes at the Metropolitan Opera, the impression is "well-dressed Londoner". The cosmopolitan milieu of New York and the interest in clothes there encourages a positive impression. In a small Midwestern town, which doesn't positively reinforce the well-dressed, I'd look at the same man and think "fish out of water".
I am not sure anyone in London actually thinks about this kind of thing.
In any city I've been to (except Calcutta), you would be considered well dressed in any cut of suit that fits well, English or Italian, but might not feel comfortable dressed like that in every part of the city.
As for dressing in the country, a city suit is not appropriate, and anyone with a sense of style or pretenses to it know enough to dress for the occasion.
I thinks some details can set you apart, tastefully and subtly, without being associated with a particular place or sending wrong signals. For example, a lapel buttonhole sewn using a special hand technique. Or the seams of a shirt when done very cleanly, they just shine through especially when using lightweight fabrics.