Hi padawan, thanks.  Yes, the particular shirts pictured are made from Riva cotton.  I don't know that the considerable difference in quality between Riva and a lesser name is discernable from the pictures, but in any case, they're nice to look at I think.  I have shirts being made by Sr. Siviglia from Testa cloth in the pipeline, as well, however the Riva edges out Testa in terms of silkiness. 

Marc

padawan, not sure of the thread count but will find out. 

Marc

No problem, Cruz, however should we ever walk down the Red Carpet at the Academy Awards, we better coordinate beforehand so we don't wear the same tattersall shirt!

Marc

Very lovely.

But where are the formal shirts?

Hi padawan, Sr. Siviglia is rather unique in that, in addition to being perhaps the finest shirtmaker of his time, his credentials include having been one of the very finest tailors in the world in earlier years, although as a new grandfather, these days he focuses mostly on shirts.  So, he has an especially strong innate ability to properly mold a shirt around the human torso.  His procedures are old-world bespoke which includes a muslin and as many fittings as needed, although his skills and experience facilitate the process.  Sr. Siviglia's daughter, Francesca, is an engineer who combines these abilities with inherent artistic visions that enable her to proficiently assist her father and, perhaps, assume the throne in the future and continue the family legacy.

Marc

From what I have seen on AAAC, Budd is not better than Hilditch et al.

I think that in London, Frank Foster is the best option.

Ronny, I won't speak for Sr. Siviglia, however I can say his philosophy is that in setting out to achieve the cleanest lines, this can only be attained with small stitches and with stitching that has strength to it, which is obtained not just by any sewing machine but with a sewing machine modified by him for his specific techniques.  His buttonholes, similarly, are perfected by this machine rather than by hand stitching.  As a trained tailor, Sr. Siviglia makes a shirt more like a tailor makes a suit, with a softness and comfort that no other shirt I've worn has provided.  My 2 lira is that I would not appreciate hand-stitching in a shirt as it's superfluous and does not result in a long-lasting shirt.  To the contrary, a hand-stitched shirt, of which there are few, if any, that I know of, would diminish the life of the shirt.  I'll concede that doing hand-stitching could offer possible marketing advantages, however it's more of a gimmick, in my opinion.  While Sr. Siviglia's shirts are not *hand-stitched*, they are, importantly, *handmade* in the sense that the hands of artists are making the shirts, from preparing the cloth to cutting the cloth, to measuring and fitting the client, and eventually to the construction and sewing of the shirt. 

Marc

Marc

any idea when Sr. Siviglia will visit Raphael's atelier again?

Last edited by kc (2006-04-05 04:20:10)

thanx Marc

Hi Hermes, thanks for your positive feedback.  Unfortunately, the photos do not capture the engineering and workmanship that goes into the shirt, most notably the construction of the collar.  Sig. Siviglia over the years has developed several innovations in shirt construction which probably should be maintained in confidentiality anyway, however his shirts are almost too nice to wear.  His portfolio of collar designs numbers in the hundreds and that choice, in itself, could take forever, so I opted for a moderate spread as a default mostly for business shirts and a few button downs for casual shirts.  His broader button down is very sharp, however it tends to result in a higher collar stance in order to maintain proportions, which then is too high for my jacket collar.  So the smaller collar works better overall.  Although many Italians have a fascination with the classic Brooks Brothers button down design, I've found that a more compact button down is commonplace in Europe, especially in Italy and France.  I'll try to post some pics when I have a chance. 

Marc

Hi Carl, thanks.  I'll need to get back to you on your lining question as I can't speak to that aspect of the construction of the shirt.

The collar and cuffs are fused, by my choice, though not the only option offered.  I have found with other shirts that a fused collar stays a bit crisper during the course of the day, although others I know owning shirts from Sig. Siviglia that are non-fused say his innovations result in an equally crisp collar and cuffs.

Marc

Nice pics of the Siviglia collar, which is the source of complete fascination and admiration for me.  A very regal collar that is Sig. Siviglia's signature.  A quick anecdote on the beauty of the collar:  A nattily-dressed gentleman who is a client of Sig. Siviglia was awaiting a flight at an airport in Italy.   A complete stranger was standing nearby quietly admiring the shirt, especially the collar, and, not being able to resist, approached the gentleman, gushing that he had never in his life seen a shirt with such a flattering fit and beautiful collar.  Both mens' planes were ready to board, the second man was told the shirtmaker is Mimmo Siviglia and he quickly contacted Sig. Siviglia for details, however he was headed back to New York.  Sig. Siviglia informed the interested man that Raphael, also in New York, is his agent in the US and, several weeks later, that man is now gleefully wearing his shirts from Sig. Siviglia.  My only regret in my newfound love for the singular beauty of Sig. Siviglia's shirts is the dozens of Ascot Chang shirts I own are gathering dust.

Marc