I don't like one button jackets. They look look too feminine.
Panzer, I don't have experience with Mr. Mahon, however my experiences, and those of others I know, with London tailors in general has shown me that the traveling tailor system is inherently flawed and it is inadvisable to get involved with a tailor who is based in the UK and who visits the US. The reason being that proper tailoring is an extremely hands-on, almost intimate, process that, in my opinion, does not lend itself to the tailor traveling back and forth from one country to another over a somewhat lengthy timeframe. Further complications can ensue if the tailor then outsources the making of the suit, a customary practice among London tailors, including Mr. Mahon. Much can be lost in translation, fall through the cracks during the process, and many mistakes can be made and overlooked, intentionally or otherwise. I had been thinking that perhaps the major Savile Row firms might be better at it, until a customer of Raphael brought in a suit made by Poole's asking Raph, "Why doesn't this suit fit right?" Another customer who uses Dege had issues with suits. Yet another customer came to Raphael with a suit made by Douglas Hayward (Yes, that Douglas Hayward, who made suits for actor Michael Caine) that fit so poorly, it needed to be taken apart at the seams, re-fit, and re-constructed, in order to fit properly. I saw that suit and was appalled at the poor construction. The lining was not even made properly. These unfortunate results all have one common thread: The tailors were all in London and made the suits through the visiting process. It just hasn't worked for me and others. Maybe it would work for you, but why chance it at such costs?
Marc
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2006-12-13 17:05:52)
Yes, and I would add that one should support the local "industry" as far as possible.
EDIT: As the regards the one-button - It is the hardest SB style for a tailor to pull off successfully, as there are no visual distractions to hide an incorrest button placement (which I find is exactly 2cm above the lowest point of my 12th rib).
Last edited by Hermes (2006-04-07 12:53:05)
Hi Cruz, speaking of balance in another thread I think, the coat Joe made had serious balance problems. The best way I can describe it is that the sides of the coat were cut too wide and so when I button the coat, there's way too much cloth in the center of the coat and it pops out by the lapels. The damndest thing because Joe really was extremely meticulous and took his time to make the suit. No rush job. I believe it took a year to finish. And, I'm out $4K. Unfortunately, it would require too much fixing to repair the coat. So, I now say "no mas" to London tailors.
Marc
Hi Marc, would you say that such a balance problem is set at the cutting stage, with little hope for correction later on? If you noticed the flaw at the basted fitting, would this be something that can be taken care of by a competent tailor during subsequent fittings? Seems like in your case, Mr. Morgan just disregarded your observations during your fittings. Thanks and sorry that it didn't turn out well for you.
...
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2006-12-13 17:13:28)
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2005/11/30/efsavile30.xml&sSheet=/fashion/2005/11/30/ixfashright.html
http://www.vogue.co.uk/Shows/Reports/Default.aspx?stID=32394
http://www.time.com/time/asia/tga/article/0,13673,501031020-517793,00.html
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2006-04-08 00:55:56)
Tailoring firms that are represented by "Creative Directors" are - as a general rule - best to be avoided, especially by bespoke neophytes.
Whenever I think of a one-button jacket, I think of John Steed. But is it possible to do one in a sack? I cannot see why not, since I don't agree that the 3-to-2 roll is non-negotiable for sack jackets.
I do like the one-button silhouette and so was interested to hear the views of a tailor on SR last week who told me that he would sooner recommend a two-button on the basis that the one-button was, in his opinion, too casual. I've also heard the same views from others regarding the SB/peak configuration - ok for evening but not for business. I'm not sure I agree with the former at least but it is interesting to hear nonetheless.
Tony beat me to mentioning Steed, my input being if you get to work with Dianna Rigg I want one.
one, or two cojones?