DWFII comes up with the goods again on oxford shoo fit and making adjustments to the instep area of the last.
http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=3659205&postcount=12
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?108696-My-New-Alfred-Sargent-Handgrade-Shoes!
An Andyite orders some handgrade Alfred Sargents. He sticks to a relatively conservative design (medallion-toed wholecut, in black), the shoes come out looking lovely, and he posts a bunch of interesting photographs of the factory. I was shocked that an iGent didn't select a black suede and #8 cordovan brogued double monk/spectator.
A post from lvy man Patrick.
http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/patricklakeville/Fall%202010/vaguetp.jpg
Uppercase slaughters the iGent's sacred cow, the soft shoulder, on home territory, the London Lounge, - http://thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9857&p=52780#p52780.
"Is it time to reassess the soft shoulder? The soft shoulder can look childish, almost prepubescent. Round and not yet formed. Or elderly. Self effacing, tentative, uncertain as if the wearer wished to melt in the background with a surfeit of modesty, apologetic. It does sloped shoulders no favor. Nor bullish torsos. So few can wear it. Or should. The soft shoulder is slovenly for a suit. It is not serious. It is not elegant. It is not meant for a suit.
"The soft shoulder, as tailored today, is often a gross exaggeration, a complement to the overstuffed shoulder, it bathes its wearer in roundness, a surfeit of cloth, both the antithesis of sprezzatura as both are sartorial conceits, each guilty of self consciousness though at opposite extremes. Indeed, I would call them a fashion, though a fashion followed by the bespoke crowd. No, what is needed is a hard headed assessment of what looks good on each of us. As much as we may want to wear a particular silhouette, we just may not be able to. Face it manfully."
Last edited by 4F Hepcat (2010-11-02 13:42:16)
Uppercase writes that the soft shoulder enjoys an "iconic status". Only in the microcosmos of the online clothing forums, that is.
Frank Shattuck, "Old Henry", has posted in support of Uppercase. The amateur iGents think that they know better.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2010-11-03 03:34:11)
^ 'See Naples and die!'
So you guys are saying it would be better to visit New Jersey than Naples?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hky53gXyjX0
Jersey would probably be better if you are a Liverpool football fan:-
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-merseyside-11595865
When it comes to business, Italians are the Arabs of Europe.
Last edited by 4F Hepcat (2010-11-03 13:17:39)
Is the physically impossible iGent dogma of the high jacket collar that remains stuck to the neck regardless of arm movement and neck extension finally being challenged in their own territory? Or am I getting him wrong?
http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=3767145&postcount=1448