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#301 2010-09-17 15:52:56

fritzl
Member
From: Gmunden, Salzkammergut/Austria
Posts: 849

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne


"I'd give all the Champagne I've ever drunk to be playing alongside him(Eric Cantona) in a big European match at Old Trafford." George Best(1946 -2005)

 

#302 2010-09-22 20:39:34

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-09-22 23:57:12)

 

#303 2010-09-22 21:40:41

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

The cordwainers hate my Vass shell cordovan shoos, they say they look like cheap grain corrected rubbish. Many shoe sellers and makers have said that.

 

#304 2010-09-22 22:06:22

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

 

#305 2010-09-22 22:17:33

JDelage
Member
From: Seattle, WA
Posts: 673

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

 

#306 2010-09-22 22:39:07

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

lt's easy for shell to get all frosty and dull looking, it needs more regular maintainance than calfskin. Shell always needs wiping down and brushing for it to look really good. Shell can easily look like crap (dull) after just a few hours, but shell can also look rich and luxurious when really well polished

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-09-22 23:55:49)

 

#307 2010-09-27 04:46:22

Journeyman
Member
Posts: 17

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

 

#308 2010-10-01 04:21:40

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-10-01 04:36:46)

 

#309 2010-10-03 22:11:20

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-10-03 23:39:11)

 

#310 2010-10-04 16:07:10

fritzl
Member
From: Gmunden, Salzkammergut/Austria
Posts: 849

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne


"I'd give all the Champagne I've ever drunk to be playing alongside him(Eric Cantona) in a big European match at Old Trafford." George Best(1946 -2005)

 

#311 2010-11-03 00:32:28

Jaypee
New member
Posts: 1

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Hi
I was jsut wondering if Bruce was Sydney based?
Would you be able to provude (PM) contact details?
Kind regards

 

#312 2010-11-03 04:22:27

meister
Member
Posts: 1141

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Shooey empty your box! Look at this mate: http://www.deerstyle.blogspot.com/

 

#313 2010-11-03 05:26:43

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

 

#314 2010-12-01 02:49:06

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

 

#315 2010-12-01 02:50:34

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-01 04:45:50)

 

#316 2010-12-01 03:06:34

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-01 03:09:17)

 

#317 2010-12-01 03:45:23

fritzl
Member
From: Gmunden, Salzkammergut/Austria
Posts: 849

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne


"I'd give all the Champagne I've ever drunk to be playing alongside him(Eric Cantona) in a big European match at Old Trafford." George Best(1946 -2005)

 

#318 2010-12-01 04:27:26

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Mr X is also going to show me how to antique leather like the professionals. Woot. smile

Another thing we talked about is Kangaroo leather. He said Kangaroo is fine grained and can be high quality, but it is quite different to normal fine calf. Calf has some give and take and can stretch in certain directions and can be manipulated well, whereas Roo has a tight grain all over; this means that in combination of a fine grain and an extra tight grain, it (roo) is really best for highend sports shoos and sports balls etc, its toughness and stiff grain can withstand those types of punishments best. (l think that's what he was saying).

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-01 06:39:56)

 

#319 2010-12-02 01:54:27

wrigglez
Member
Posts: 99

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

as if finding supplies in aus wasnt hard enough you introduce us to keep leather, i cant find anything on it anywhere...
Mr. X sounds like an exclent find thats for sure!\
edit: hows long is he planing of sticking round in vic for if you dont mind.

Last edited by wrigglez (2010-12-02 02:19:34)

 

#320 2010-12-02 04:24:41

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

 

#321 2010-12-02 04:30:57

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Very soon the ability to get a proper bespoke shoo in Australia will be finished. ln Victoria the ability to get a bespoke shoo will end next year. There may be an old bloke up Sydney who can do a pair, but i'm not sure yet. l will try finding out though.

Hopefully Mr X can show me how to put orthotics into my own shoes so l can keep up with having significant win. wink All l need to do is copy what he does...put the orthotics in the same places, shouldn't be too hard.

-----------------------
l haven't forgotten about the Mc Loeds factory tour. There's no point going yourself and just turning up, let me organise an event for a bunch of us Melbourne guys, i'll get the lads at Mc Leods to show us various shoe making processes including some machine stitching and hopefully even one of the lads gluing back some gemming and hand stitching the welt back to the gemming (that would be good). lt would be good to make it for a Friday. You can pick us up in your BMW. smile

Mr X speaks well of the Mc Loeds factory. lgents rubbish them for there shoos but they forget that they are only making for a marketplace. They are quite capable: they can make patterns, measure feet, hand stitch welts and make shoes. Shit kicker shoe-men don't get work at that factory. Mc Loeds have a reputation to uphold.

There is only two people at the factory full time. Joe (from lnvicta, 80 years old) also works there part time now. l've seen Joe do amazing things...seen him copy a shoo that was identicle to the original, could not tell them apart.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-02 05:15:01)

 

#322 2010-12-02 05:48:30

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

 

#323 2010-12-02 05:55:01

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

All of the cordwainers i've met prefer blake stitched shoes, they prefer the softness of the construction. Mr X feels the same way; he doesn't wear `goodyear' shoes, only blake constructed shoes. The Melbourne shoemakers never understand why l like welted shoes so much, but Mr X naturally does wink , he is also the only guy l know that has never been disgusted with my shell cordovan budapster. Mr X does rise above them all.

Mr X says that the best dressed people in ltaly only wear goodyear welted and handmade shoes, never blake. Mr X also has a fine appreciation for good clothes too, he loves to dress up in nice suits.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-02 08:17:29)

 

#324 2010-12-02 07:24:59

interested observer
Member
Posts: 65

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Shooey:

The problem with the RTW industry is that many of the people in the business don't really know the first thing about how shoes are actually made.  Today, the industry is mainly comprised of designers.  The lastmaking and manufacturing is frequently outsourced.  Of course, the companies do employ some experts.  The pattern makers are generally very experienced, since they are having to convert the designers' drawings into actual shoe patterns, so they get alot of experience very quickly.

As to 'lasting,' the reality is that factories typically machine last the uppers, which is a very different process from hand lasting.  Also, the way the upper lays on the last is a function of the pattern making, so your shoe maker's criticism of the lasting is really a criticism of the patterns.  If the pattern doesn't lay down on the last, it has to be lasted with force.  Also, the initial 'fit' of the upper is a consequence of the actual shoe style; some styles are almost impossible to design so that they lay down on all parts of the last.

Further, lasting properly takes some, but not all of the stretch out of the leather, which is a good thing for long term durability of the shoe.  Finally, in general the bespoke trade does not 'wet last' their shoes.  So, your expert's approach is at odds with the trade in general.  Wet lasting is easier, but it may lead to other problems.

BTW, where is your blog (link?).

Cheers.

p.s. It's 'blake-,' not 'black'-stitched.


"Any formal attack on ignorance is bound to fail because the masses are always ready to defend their most precious possession - their ignorance. "
— Hendrick Van Loon

Better to be thought a fool than to speak and remove all doubt.

 

#325 2010-12-02 08:12:07

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Bespoke last maker - Melbourne

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-02 08:24:05)

 

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