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#26 2006-04-08 19:12:20
- kenperes
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- Posts: 584
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
Last edited by kenperes (2006-04-08 19:12:52)
#28 2006-04-08 20:00:02
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
- From: Devil's Island
- Posts: 9345
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
This is more like it. But I want more.
What type of shoes do they like in the Neopolitan school? I mean besides E. green of course!
#30 2006-04-09 00:39:27
- Incroyable
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Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
I was at the opening party for the Luigi Borrelli shop in San Francisco and almost every male there had on some variation of their aesthetic prototype; of fairly short jacket and very consipicuous pick-stitching and other more or less contrived bits of hand-work. The pick-stitching was especially noticeable and inelegant; it had the cheapness of desperation.
Borrelli seems to favor the very open quarters look, which tends to be the characteristic impression of most Americans of the so-called Neapolitan style.
Last edited by Incroyable (2006-04-09 00:40:42)
Jukebox Babe
#33 2006-04-09 08:50:54
- Panzeraxe
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- Posts: 146
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
Ken,
Great post (and pics). One thing I should point out is that I have seen some Neapolitan suits with no padding whatsoever in the shoulders. I had initially thought this to be impossible, but quite a few La Vera and an Attolini I have seen have a pure 'cardigan' shoulder.
I asked Raphael about this a few weeks ago, and he confirmed that there are a few tailors out there that hate even the smallest amount of wadding in the shoulder. Not a good look in my opinion - just seems to highlight the imperfections of the human shoulder.
Speaking of Borrelli - I think their bread n' butter product (the shirts) are reasonable in terms of construction, but the prices they charge are horrible. I can get 2 of my preferred Dege pseudo-bespoke shirts for one Borrelli MTM. The Borrelli collar, however, is quite beautiful.
Panzer
Last edited by Panzeraxe (2006-04-09 08:54:19)
#34 2006-04-09 09:14:34
- kenperes
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- Posts: 584
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
Last edited by kenperes (2006-04-09 09:15:49)
#35 2006-04-09 10:06:19
- Panzeraxe
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- Posts: 146
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
Ken - I think you're right in stating that a completely unpadded coat is not one originally meant for business wear. However, I think some of the tailors have started offering these in formal business fabrics - the La Vera's that I saw at Kempson's were definitely more Wall Street than the Hamptons. The Attolini was a pure bespoke product so its entirely possible that the owner specifically requested no padding.
I agree with you in that its not a good look for business wear.
Panzer
#36 2006-04-09 12:23:05
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
- From: Devil's Island
- Posts: 9345
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
More photos of Neopolitan style please!
More of the tie makers and shirtmakers as well please.
#38 2006-04-09 18:31:33
- Junior Astaire
- Moderator
- Posts: 271
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
Some great information here.
Are there makers in New York City who carry the Neopolitan style?
#40 2006-04-09 19:18:44
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
- From: Devil's Island
- Posts: 9345
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
Someone in the know recently told me that my tailor's lapels were flat, and that indeed all American tailors lapels are flat. Apparently its an American thang. Even Southern Italians who come here will flatten the lapels within six months. I wonder what encourages us to lose the curve or curl to the lapel here?
#42 2006-04-10 01:02:21
- Incroyable
- Member
- Posts: 2310
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
There is a distinct tendency for upper-end American clothing makers to adhere to "Protestant" notions of simplicity of which a flamboyant lapel roll might run counter to.
That might explain it, partially anyways.
Jukebox Babe
#43 2006-04-10 07:22:31
- Hermes
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- Posts: 83
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
Surely there's an American tailor who makes lapels with stupendous bellies for afficianados of "high Church".
#46 2006-04-10 12:54:06
- kenperes
- Member
- Posts: 584
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
What is nice about this thread, and what separates it from most Neapolitan threads on other forums is that it shows elegant men wearing clothes that fit and not gangster wannabes. I have noticed many of the former in Naples and few of the latter.
#48 2006-04-10 13:22:28
- Super 150s
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- Posts: 84
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
This is a very informative thread. Can Hermes rename this to include the discussion of neopolitan dressing?
#50 2006-04-10 16:04:32
- Cruz Diez
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- Posts: 1950
Re: Neapolitan Style Thread
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-04-10 17:03:40)