Last edited by Cruz Diez (2007-04-05 21:39:23)
Agree with your points on pattern matching.
One thing that I dislike about the pictured shirts is that the seam inside the shoulder is visible as opposed to being done in a more hidden manner like handmade shirtmakers do it. I don't know the right terminology, but it is a richer look to me.
The comment that the shirts are 100% machine-made came from the same individual writing that shoulder pads are a boon to "diminutive" men as they create the illusion of height.
Cruz, thank you for your thoughtful and insightful post! The Siviglia collar looks absolutely wonderful.
Any thoughts on shirtmakers who arrange the stripes into chevrons over the back of the shoulders to draw attention to the split back yoke (If that's the term)?
Not a look I'm fond of.
Nice shirt FNB.
Some people are fans of the split yoke with chevroned stripes, because they like to display geometric compositions over their shoulders. That's fine with me. But to say that split yokes are a sign of higher quality shirts and that they can be used to improve the fitting, that's baloney.
FWIW, when I asked my tailor about pattern matching on the sleeve-shoulder intersection, he grinned, knowingly, as though this issue had been raised before with him. Granted, he's not a shirtmaker per se, however he knows a thing or two about pattern matching, in general, and his comment was that it's not a priority with him when it comes to shirts that he owns: Some shirtmakers do it (if feasible), others do not. As noted earlier, the priority should be proper fit. If you look at the pics of the plaid coats made by Raph that I had posted, you'll see that in some areas the plaids don't sync up perfectly, such as from arms to body. Reason is my body is not in perfect sync, as is the case with most people, and lines will not be perfectly straight and in total alignment. If one shoulder is slightly higher, the plaid will be higher, as well, than the rest of the body. This doesn't necessarily apply to the shirt sleeve-shoulder stripe alignment issue, but it's another example of why patterns with custom-made clothes are inherently imperfect. In contrast, my Oxxford MTM coats have stripes at the horizontal shoulder seam in perfect alignment, a result of the emphasis being on that alignment rather than proper fit. To be fair, the limitations on a MTM coat, be it an Oxxford or any other manufacturer I know of, result in an imperfect fit.
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2007-01-24 19:20:28)
Besides pattern matching and split yokes, what other trojan horses of marketing are regularly foisted upon us in which mere stylistic gimmicks are passed off as hallmarks of superior quality?
This might be a good topic for a separate thread.
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2007-01-24 19:00:50)
The nuances of mother of pearl shirt buttons are also very much besides the point. Good-quality MOP buttons are expected in a fine shirt, however you needn't go crazy over anything beyond that.
Cross-stitching on buttons: Some say it's stronger, but I, personally, feel parallel stitching is more elegant in its simplicity, and it seems to be equally durable
Sleeve placket buttons.
From Bentley promotional literature...
Upholstery and trim traditional - Bentley skills and human judgement oversee laser-accurate execution -
Much of the character of a Bentley comes from the ambience of the interior. A keynote of this is the tactile and olfactory delight of hand-stitched full leather trim covering every surface, made using the finest grade leather. But even on the best quality hides there are tiny flaws and minor imperfections, and the judgement of the men and women in the Crewe upholstery shop is critical to ensure that each matched set of hide is as consistent and smooth as possible.
Previously at Crewe, the individual panels were cut out of the complete hide using a press and cutting forms, which were positioned by hand to make best use of the material. In contrast, for the Continental GT the hides are cut using a computer-guided laser cutter. However, human judgement is still critical to the process; craftsmen and women use fluorescent tape to mark the areas of the hide that contain flaws or graining imperfections, and the laser cutter automatically computes the optimum use of the hide to cut out the differently-shaped and dimensioned panels whilst avoiding the marked areas.
The result is that whereas the previous system required up to 15 hides to create a set of hide trim and upholstery for just one car, the new technology enables the same quality to be achieved for just 11 hides per Continental GT.
Complete upholstery sets are still made the traditional way using sewing machines, and some of the most intricate parts of the hide trim are still created by hand. A Bentley steering wheel's immaculate hide cover, for example, is double-stitched by hand using two needles simultaneously, and the craftsmen and women who perform this task have their own specially designed stations for this exacting and detailed work.
Last edited by jsprowls9 (2007-01-24 20:57:00)