Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-10 04:06:53)
Firstly, if your tailor is reading this thread then he ain't got much work. Is he really, because the comment sounds a little too much like my brother's bigger than your brother to fit into two adults talking?
Second, If a well-cut collar really makes such a difference to fit then every decent tailor would appreciate it. You don't have to be able to execute something perfectly to acknowledge it. You said this meant a high collar - which is obviously doesn't. Then, when challenged, you said that wasn't what you meant but that a well cut collar was a proper cut collar. Wow - what insight.
If your tailor reads this thread then why don't you ask him to define a well-cut collar and to say what he achieves that no one else achieves. Otherwise, you've posted one ugly jacket which makes its already square owner look even squarer. And that's it.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-12 18:02:44)
i'm considering pulling the trigger on one from the tailor in question, he has done work for me on an overcoat and did a very good job indeed. but the waiting list time and the price is what kills me , i'd be looking at 4 chans for the same price. and although they may not be as good, there pretty good.
I had a chance to inspect a W.W. Chan personally and there is nothing special about it (especially the collar construction), although it wasn't that bad either.
Sorry I meant to say that the tailor mentioned is very good (i would assume better than chan), but I’m bias because towards Chan because I’m young and a uni student and hence, poor, haha. Although I haven’t had the privilege of observing Chan’s work they have had a few good recommendations, all be it on the internet but I’ve found some good sources on the internet. and seeing the work of the tailor mentioned i'd have to say its very good stuff indeed. Luckily, being young, it means i have a lot of time on my hands to sample some of the excellent craftsmen’s work Australia and the world has to offer over my lifetime.
This business following Phat whathisname at SF and others to Chan is something I don't really understand when there is such depth of local talent. It's very average work, not terrible but not inspirational either. I could cut a coat better than that. I guess it's their price, but don't expect a genuine high end garment. However, what's the point in railing against forum group think? I just end up wasting my breath.
Last edited by Sator (2010-12-13 23:19:52)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-14 01:20:47)
Last edited by Sator (2010-12-13 23:40:24)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-14 00:48:20)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-14 02:15:13)
In most cases, it gives the tailor a chance to double his prices when he encounters an iGent. If it increases the value of tailor's work because people value what tailors do more, it is all good in the big picture of things. Sometimes even non-iGents can be overbearing clients too. None of this sort of thing is entirely new.
So that's why I think there should be more iGents. I hope SF spawns a whole gaggle of them in every city around the world.
Shooey - I'm with sator - I think the more iGents the better. More demand, supply of tailors is limited therefore prices up or tailors more discriminating what customers they take on. More work = more profits=more apprentices or self taught tailors. In general a healthier industry for the future.
Remember too that not all iGents are pushy jocks and bullies, many will just go in a take the tailors advice and be happy. I'm betting more lurkers get suits/ jackets made than posters do. Lurkers come on - sniff around - make a decision based on evidence - dismiss whingers and bullies - get their tailor or suit and never post.
I disagree with sator on the wine. Or partly agree.
I agree there is a lot of cognitive dissonance with bespoke / tailor made, or buyer's rose coloured glasses or simple old rationalisation of purchase.
However rather than calling cask wine a Grange being the main problem I see that the elephant in the room is that most of them (not us of course) cannot see that often, more often than they expect, a $10 cleanskin, say a relatively inexpensive RTW, can taste, and be, better than a hyped up $40 brand name bottle, say a "approved" tailor made.
Oh shooey - I forgot to mention today I had a quick squiz in an op shop - there was a suit by your secret guy (or someone with same surname) for $25. - I'd say it was around a 42L. But I only slipped in the coat.
I only just thought - it might be worth buying to take apart and have a butchers? or send to sator or jeffery
Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-12-14 17:39:31)
The sewing machine is a tool, just like sheers are a tool. It's not better if a tailor cuts with his teeth or with a Neolithic stone tool.
A machine stitch tends to be tighter, and crisper. A lot of things do look a lot sharper if you machine it. Basting is the bit that is done by hand because it is about moulding the cloth into the shape you want. Once the shape is set you then go over it with a machine if you need a clean finish, or with selective type of hand stitch that preserves the shape where this is required. Just doing it by hand as an end in itself is silly. It's what you do with your hands that matters - not the fact that you have done it by hand.
Last edited by Sator (2010-12-15 01:33:00)