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#77 2011-01-13 16:03:39
- formby
- Member
- From: Wiseacre
- Posts: 8359
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin
Souvent me Souvient
#79 2011-01-13 16:50:13
- tteplitzmd
- Member
- Posts: 345
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
I don't know a lot about shirting cloth. That said, the English cloths seem inferior next to the Italian/Swiss mills. The "classic" Acorn shirtings in particular. They're just generic poplins by and large.
#80 2011-01-13 17:00:19
- formby
- Member
- From: Wiseacre
- Posts: 8359
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin
Souvent me Souvient
#81 2011-01-13 17:06:24
- formby
- Member
- From: Wiseacre
- Posts: 8359
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin
Souvent me Souvient
#82 2011-01-13 21:31:47
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
I never pay attention to yarn numbers because they tend to be misleading regarding a cloth's actual drape, comfort, luminosity (that subtle, silk-like sheen that separates good cotton fabrics from the rest), and durability. For example, I've seen some 80s cloth from a reasonably decent mill looking faded years earlier than the really good 180s stuff.
#83 2011-01-13 22:10:30
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
The traditional way:
1-Measurements are taken
2-Pattern is created
3-Muslin try-out is assembled
4-1st fitting is conducted with the muslin
5-Any necessary adjustments are drawn onto the pattern
6-Shirt is cut
7-Fabrics and interlinings are sponged and treated prior to the making
8-Shirt is sewn
9-2nd fitting is conducted with an actual shirt
10-Any necessary adjustments are transferred to the pattern
Steps 1-6 and 9-10 are always done by the same person
Steps 7-8 are always done in-house
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2011-01-13 22:19:48)
#84 2011-01-14 03:33:28
- NJS
- Member
- Posts: 2358
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
Well, Budd does everything inhouse and I even remember Sarah Webster's punctilious father being in charge and they didn't mess around with muslin 'try-ons'.
Talk about frigging around.
It's a shirt, not a scientific instrument.
#88 2011-01-14 05:43:41
- formby
- Member
- From: Wiseacre
- Posts: 8359
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin
Souvent me Souvient
#91 2011-01-14 08:26:15
- Grossgrain Silk
- Member
- From: The Inner Bar
- Posts: 877
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
Last edited by Grossgrain Silk (2011-01-14 08:26:58)
#95 2011-01-14 15:26:49
- formby
- Member
- From: Wiseacre
- Posts: 8359
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin
Souvent me Souvient
#97 2011-01-15 03:12:53
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2011-01-15 03:15:13)
#99 2011-01-15 13:26:24
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2011-01-15 13:27:06)
#100 2011-01-15 14:17:58
- tteplitzmd
- Member
- Posts: 345
Re: Sartorial Resolutions for 2011
I have to say that the only shirts that I have that truly fit, are the ones where there was a muslin try on.