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#26 2011-01-18 02:26:36

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: When bespoke works right

Anotherinterestedobserver's observation is interesting (no pun intended) and on the money.

A jacket is the result of 3 elements: Styling, Cutting, and Tailoring.

You can think of them as 3 circles in a Venn diagram. Cutting lies between Styling and Tailoring and overlaps both. Styling and Tailoring do not overlap.

My perception of the first jacket is that it was tailored very well. It shows the hallmarks of good needlework, ironwork, and fitting practices. Something you very, very seldom see posted online, in the first place.

There were some problems with the cut, but the tailor did a good job with what he had been given to work from. I do not like the styling, and also think it does not suit the wearer, but there's a lot of subjectivity involved. It could have been that one person was responsible for the 3 elements, which isn't right or wrong per se.

 

#27 2011-01-18 03:44:46

meister
Member
Posts: 1141

Re: When bespoke works right

sicilian suiting


http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/travel/2010/0911/1224278602091.html

Last edited by meister (2011-01-18 03:45:27)

 

#28 2011-01-18 07:23:31

Sammy Ambrose
Member
Posts: 3649

Re: When bespoke works right

Last edited by Sammy Ambrose (2011-01-18 09:13:03)


If you aren't seeing through all three eyes at once day and night you are up shit creek without a paddle. The Shooman

 

#29 2011-01-18 13:14:58

Grossgrain Silk
Member
From: The Inner Bar
Posts: 877

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#30 2011-01-18 14:42:13

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke works right

Last edited by formby (2011-01-18 14:43:44)


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#31 2011-01-18 15:29:42

Grossgrain Silk
Member
From: The Inner Bar
Posts: 877

Re: When bespoke works right

He's made himself a better jacket than he made Manton. I think the sleeves are fat and he's done the drop shoulder thing again, and draped the coat. But the lapels are proportionate, the button placement is good and the pockets are in the right place. It also suits him.

 

#32 2011-01-18 16:19:33

dandysauage
Member
Posts: 31

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#33 2011-01-18 20:16:55

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1502

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#34 2011-01-19 00:10:49

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#35 2011-01-19 05:19:50

dandysauage
Member
Posts: 31

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#36 2011-01-19 07:00:53

Big Tony
Member
Posts: 5478

Re: When bespoke works right

He must shop in the Brooks Brothers Boy's department!


"What sort of post-apocalyptic deathscape is this?"
"I don't want to look like a cock hungry sailor after all !!!"
"When it comes to infidelity, broken families, and reckless fatherhood, the underclass are amateurs."

 

#37 2011-02-12 13:11:52

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke works right


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#38 2011-02-12 13:44:17

Gilgamesh2003
Member
Posts: 1383

Re: When bespoke works right

Thumbs way down on that pocket square.

 

#39 2011-02-12 15:32:45

Grossgrain Silk
Member
From: The Inner Bar
Posts: 877

Re: When bespoke works right

It fits, the button placement is good. The sleeves look fat and long to me and I think the shirt tie combo is too smart for patch pockets, but that's simply a personal view. The handkerchief in the pocket is trying so hard that its arse is out of the chair, its hand is waving madly and it's saying 'please sir' in a tone suggestive of acute constipation.

 

#40 2011-02-12 16:11:05

Big Tony
Member
Posts: 5478

Re: When bespoke works right


"What sort of post-apocalyptic deathscape is this?"
"I don't want to look like a cock hungry sailor after all !!!"
"When it comes to infidelity, broken families, and reckless fatherhood, the underclass are amateurs."

 

#41 2011-02-12 17:29:17

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#42 2011-02-13 03:36:51

Grossgrain Silk
Member
From: The Inner Bar
Posts: 877

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#43 2011-02-13 08:56:01

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#44 2011-02-13 10:58:44

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#45 2011-02-13 11:10:10

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke works right


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#46 2011-02-13 11:23:23

Gilgamesh2003
Member
Posts: 1383

Re: When bespoke works right

Down. Pinchy waist makes it look like womenswear (and exaggerates the hips), costume fedora is distracting, and the pocket handkerchief is a) ugly and b) trying way too hard. Jacket sleeves look a scintilla short. Tie is NG with the jacket. Jacket looks a little long, too, though it's hard to tell without seeing the legs.

 

#47 2011-02-13 11:24:35

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: When bespoke works right

 

#48 2011-02-13 11:30:06

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke works right


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#49 2011-02-13 11:30:14

SimonC
Member
Posts: 89

Re: When bespoke works right


"For our new boots, we wanted the hide of something vicious and bloodthirsty and that devoured all before it in an orgy of rampant ferocity. But Margaret Thatcher wasn't dead yet."

 

#50 2011-02-13 11:35:16

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: When bespoke works right

 

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