Recently posted on the English Cut website -http://www.englishcut.com/2011/03/29/the-new-old-way/#comments
"As from July you’ll initially be able to make an appointment with myself where you can choose your cloth, style details and then be measured. We’ll also have our full rage of sample garments in the basic sizes. To compliment your full set of measurements we can try the clothes on you so we can both see the type of look we’re aiming for. After this stage we’ll meet again with a completed suit which we can fine tune as necessary. The entire process will take about six weeks from start to finish and the cost will be approximately £1400.00 for a two piece. Before you receive your suit everything will be finalized and checked here at the hall, the home of English Cut.
"In simple terms you’ll own a hand made garment that’s been made by craftsmen who love their work. The style will be soft and natural, exactly as we make here in our own workshop, Paul and I will make sure of this. They’ll be cut using patterns designed by yours truly and quite simply there will be nothing to compare in made to measure tailoring. Remember, this is unique, we’re not using one of the three factories that everyone else uses to machine produce soulless garments that all look the same. These have been redesigned from the paper pattern right through to the final pressing technique."
Note the final dig, presumably at Cheshire Bespoke and Wensum. His earlier comments on the lack of English trained artisans are illuminating.
I wonder how the quality will compare with Steed's offering - http://www.steedtailors.co.uk/semi_bespoke.htm
"Our semi-bespoke suits are cut and constructed to your specific measurements and requirements allowing you to select the style, fabric and personal details
"These suits are tailored using many of the traditional Savile Row methods usually associated with bespoke suits and take about 6 to 7 weeks to make."
Steed's standard prices are 30% cheaper than English Cut's - http://www.steedtailors.co.uk/semi_bespoke_price_list.htm
There is a Spring special offer - http://steeds-view.blogspot.com/2011/03/steed-tailors-mtm-dinner-suit-sports.html
"Spring Special Price:
3-Piece Suit would be £825
2-Piece Suit would be £675
Sports Jacket/Blazer £480
Trousers £210
3-Piece Dinner Suit £960
2-Piece Dinner Suit £770"
Half English Cut's proposed prices.
Anyone tempted?
Last edited by Bishop of Briggs (2011-04-02 03:34:16)
I remember that in an issue of "The Chap" magazine there were two similar offers, at least one of which was in India. Seemed like it got a passable, if not rave review.
I think a major problem with tailor's is that they know who they are cutting for in terms of cultural or social circles. That's why saving money on a suit may not be any where near as smart as getting one from Dege and SKinner if everyone you work/meet with goes there. Even if the fit isnt there, (I am not suggesting it isnt there, btw), the cultural signals the suit gives off will anoint you as one of the herd.
Have you tried these tailoring services, are you planning to?
Or is this more about insinuations you feel Mahon is tacitly making about other clothing companies?
If Mahon's observations are correct, it is likely that British tailoring prices will continue to rise. I have noticed a general upward trend, well above CPI and RPI.
One factor could be that Tony Lutwyche has cornered the English-made MTM and RTW market. Cheshire Bespoke makes for Huntsman, Richard Anderson, Bernard Weatherill and Chester Barrie as well as Lutwyche's own brands. The RTW prices being charged by Weatherill and Lutwyche are mind-boggling - £1600 to £2300 for a sports coat! Wensum's factory in Mauritius makes for Gieves & Hawkes, Richard James, Austin Reed, Ede & Ravenscroft and other brands. A fully-canvassed MTM starts at £1500. I think that the third factory is St Andrews in Italy which I believe has been renamed Saint Andrea.
English Cut clearly sees MTM as the only way it can substantially increase the size its business. The trend on the Row (driven by skill shortages, rising costs and therefore higher prices) is very much towards MTM and RTW. If the final MTM product is close to a bespoke garment, it may be the only affordable high quality option for those who are not (or, following the recession, no longer) very wealthy.
Last edited by Big Tony (2011-04-02 10:14:56)
The problem with these businesses is that they are nearly impossible to scale. Their value added comes specifically from the fact that the experience is one-on-one, and the brand can only stretch so far beyond that.
I did ask Mahon on his Website quite bluntly what the difference was between his £1100 RTW and £1500 MTM and Bespoke at Sims or GB kicking off at £1K.
Sadly I was met with a discreete silence. Hence I will be sticking with Sims.
I have no problem in giving these retailers £1K+ for RTW and MTM but please tell me what the difference is
Made in India: caveat emptor.
Last edited by meister (2011-04-03 07:16:42)
Durian smells amazingly like putrefied meat. It's a wonder to me that it's considered a delicacy anywhere.
Thanks for the information about the MTM program. Prices will certainly continue to rise. Just the other day, I saw a list with Savile Row prices from 1996 . A two piece Henry Poole bespoke suit costs 1200 GBP - a huge difference (even considering general inflation) to what they charge nowadays...
Where are Steed's "semi-bespoke" made? India, too?