Don't get me started. My aggravation at the 'it's a big knot so I can leave my top button showing' approach is a sign of my advancing years.

The tie knot should cover the top button/stud.

The knot itself should be tight. First, a dimple should be a dimple - not a fold of cloth bifurcating the tie for 60% of its length. Secondly, the knot doesn't sit properly unless it's tight. Thirdly, a big knot is out of proportion to a decent suit jacket where the proportions of the lapels, pockets, amount of shirt on display, collar width and spread and amount of pocket handkerchief (if worn) showing are all restrained. Unless you are channelling the 70s, a huge knot disrupts all of that. Anyway, I like a tight knot.

Also, have you seen the state of the streets today? And young peoples' behaviour is appalling. Bring back the birch. Etc, etc

Its the shirt collar tightness I have problem with. After many measurements, in various poses, I am still only a 16 or 41 and yet, I am no longer comfortable in this size collar. I must move up a size or feel strangled. Why is this? I dunno', its only when I wear the shirt full buttoned up ready for a tie.

I have moved up a shirt size and yet, physically not changed.

Weird, anybody know why?

Mr. John Simons tells a great story about having lunch with Mr. Lou Austin & the fact that Lou couldn't stand a tight collar & would wear his shirts too large to avoid feeling strangled...