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#1 2007-02-08 10:45:46
- Matt
- Ivy Original.
- Posts: 332
MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Club collar shirts aren't for everyone, but a number of us have been seeking a good source, for some time.
At one time, there was a group on another forum that was trying to put together a combined order, to get Dave Mercer to make some. Apparently nothing came of it.
If you are interested, you might want to check out the BB web site, and click on "Select" special order dress shirts. You will find that you can put together the exact MTM, with a club collar, if that is your desire.
Even after crossing off the "no iron" fabrics, they still have a decent fabric selection. The oxford cloth selection is fairly limited, but blue and white were fine with me. (They were out of pink, but life is full of bumps in the road.)
By coincidence, I believe that Coolidge and I both ended up with an order about the same time. I don't speak for him, but the ones that I got were superb. Thread count seems about like Mercer. It was great to get the MTM features that you desire, such as 31" sleeve, no pocket, no gauntlet button, etc., at about what Dave Mercer charges. (Something under $100 with an introductory offer.)
Not for those that are interested in instant gratification, mine took about a month to make.
Many people have written off BB, however, this might be worth a look.
Last edited by Matt (2007-02-08 12:43:26)
#2 2007-02-08 10:50:24
- Coolidge
- Member
- Posts: 1192
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Last edited by Coolidge (2007-02-08 10:53:14)
#3 2007-02-08 12:34:12
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Very interesting!
I've followed the cult of the club collar with interest.
A bit like the pull-over shirt there's been a lot of muddy thinking on the subject on the whole...
But not here and not in Mr. Cooly's AAAC work.
Opinions on the Tab Club & the Pinned Club?
They belong in the Ivy cannon for sure. Paul Keers boosts the Tab Club as an ultimate Ivy League Style I think (I'll check & report back).
I like what Press are doing with Clubs and non-Club Tabs. Their Club looks a little too short to pin though, but that could just be my old eyes...
A pinned Club with a dark silk knit tie under your choice of Sack Jacket or suit would really sort out the Ivy League from the Junior League, IMVHO.
Anybody's thoughts on this are welcome.
t.
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#4 2007-02-08 13:25:09
- Coolidge
- Member
- Posts: 1192
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Last edited by Coolidge (2007-02-08 13:30:40)
#5 2007-02-08 13:35:25
- Che
- Member
- Posts: 29
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
I am not farmiliar with what the club collar looks like. Can you explain more specifically or show my a picture of said collar?
#6 2007-02-08 13:36:58
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-02-08 13:42:00)
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#7 2007-02-08 13:37:56
- Coolidge
- Member
- Posts: 1192
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Last edited by Coolidge (2007-02-08 13:38:29)
#8 2007-02-08 13:42:43
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
With less spread that would pin OK.
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#9 2007-02-08 13:46:51
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Just re-checked the Brooks 'Golf'. Very pinable if you pulled those points in. Bet they could tab it too for a few dollars more.
Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-02-08 13:58:57)
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#10 2007-02-08 15:04:30
- Matt
- Ivy Original.
- Posts: 332
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
The club is not for everyone. For those not familiar with it, the photo that Cooly posted is an excellent example.
The club has always had great appeal to me for the following reasons that may or may not have general validity:
1. It is very retro, ivy/trad. Most people that see it vaguely recognize it as something that grandfather used to wear to the office. (Grandfather's collar was detachable, however.)
2. Incredibly neat looking.
3. Very contrarian, absolutely no one in the area where I live wears one. ergo, when almost everyone else wears the same OCBD that everyone else wears, it furnishes a way to be a bit different, without appearing to be flashy, or showing off.
4. Finally, they are almost impossible to find, therefore it is not likely that the currency will be inflated. That's why I was hesitant to share the secret that Cooly and I discovered,but I hope that you won't broadcast it widely.
I would beg to differ with Cooly on one minor point. It seems to me that the club collar cries out for simplicity, as is a plain oxford or broadcloth, with cuff and collar the same color as the body of the shirt. When you challenge the simplicity and elegance of the collar with contrasting cuff and body patterns, it comes across as a bit Gordon Gekko, to me.
#14 2007-02-09 01:02:30
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6433
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#15 2007-02-09 02:29:36
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#16 2007-02-09 03:21:03
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6433
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
By the way, I assume that Brooks is making their MTM shirts in the Garland factory? Or is somewhere else?
Edit: I just checked out the site: they should allow you to put the monogram below the waist, out of view, should you want one. I guess you have to go into the store for that, provided they can still do it that way.
Last edited by Horace (2007-02-09 03:24:52)
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#17 2007-02-09 05:45:33
- Matt
- Ivy Original.
- Posts: 332
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Horace, I got the impression that you could put the monogram wherever you wanted. If the site doesn't allow it, my experience is that the people at the BB center are very knowledgable, and can acconodate the monogram wherever you desire.
On some of the other points, it is all a matter of personal taste, as Cooly states. There simply can't be a right or wrong approach to the club collar.
However, FWIW, it has always seemed to me that the quintessance of the club collar is understated elegance. Since it is quite unusual, it will draw attention. Ergo, contrasting collars, and pins only go to spoil the understated elegance that the shirt generates, in my view.
That said, it all boils down to what you like, and goes to show the versitility of the shirt. Years ago, there were eyelets in the collar, so that you had to wear a pin. The current version allows you to change the look, each time you wear it, by wearing a collar keeper, or not.
The contrasting collar and cuff is also a matter of personal taste. As Cooly says, you can always do everything else in a subdued manner, which tends to mute the GG impact of the contrasting collar.
Nevertheless, a great garment, IMO, that allows a lot of versitility, as the posts above demonstrate. Certainly no right, or wrong answers.
Back to the question of the group on the other forum that approached Dave Mercer. I believe that it was Harris, and I just don't think that Dave could handle it. I certainly would have joined the group.
My impression of Mercer, even though every non cllub I have is from Mercer, is that his "workroom" consists of 4 retired lobster fishermen working in a quonset hut, on foot operated sewing machines. An order for 200 club collar sirts would have blown out a lot of circuits.
#18 2007-02-09 15:17:19
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6433
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Last edited by Horace (2007-02-09 15:17:37)
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#20 2007-02-09 20:10:19
- jsprowls9
- Member
- From: Denver, CO
- Posts: 250
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Just to be a pill...
'Club' collars were so named as they were considered sportswear typically worn to the country club for a game of golf.
Discuss amongst yourselves...
#22 2007-02-10 01:41:45
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-02-10 02:08:43)
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#23 2007-02-10 06:19:47
- Shirtmaven
- Member
- From: NYC
- Posts: 50
Re: MTM Club Collar Oxford Cloth Shirts
david mercer does not have retired lobstermen making hs shirts. His shirts are not made in Maine. though there are plenty of ladies who ued to work for hathaway who he could hire.
make sure the club collar is not fused, that J. press collar looks a bit to hard for a club collar. I have made them with fused collars. I think they looked best unfused.
Carl