http://www.bernhardroetzel.de/
Before I click, what should we know in advance. What's Mr. Roetzel's angle?
Well it seems the book was one of fun about brits as the man loves brits as does dear Claudia.
His website seems rather friendly in tone. Its sincerity makes it a refreshing change from the imperious attitudes of the message boards as well as Flusser's somewhat inflated Custom website.
Also, it seems you can contact him directly which is relatively rare for most authors.
However, some of his casual attire is not to my taste.
Last edited by Incroyable (2007-02-14 20:09:28)
I don't care for the abundance of hacking pockets on his suits but maybe it's his trademark?
Based on the fabric that looks more like a country suit though.
Also notice how he is wearing rings on his fingers--surely a sign of a pimp and gangster as according to the Rules Police!
I own this book and while i've never bothered to read it cover to cover (the lifestyle aspects just don't interest me, i use a norelco, not a bowl of shaving cream and a straight razor) i actually obtained legitimately useful information from it while browsing one day. Toward the end, somewhere in the 300's, he describes how hangered suits in stores have extra stitching in their shoulder seams so that the seams do not come apart from the thin wooden hangers they rest on while racked (thin so more suits can fit on the racks). Prior to reading this I had already noticed that the shoulders of a couple of my suits were starting to raise/pucker a bit in the middle - not absurdly drastic but noticable, at least to me. I had been hanging both of the suits on thin wooden hangers, one that came with a suit from Paul Stuart and another that an alterations tailor had supplied when he returned a suit i submitted to him. As someone who switched from an interview suit to several suits recently i had no idea that the hangers used have to be broad. Maybe i should have figured out, but i didn't. Hangers just aren't something i would ever think about. I think it's kind of egregious for a decent store and a tailor to give you hangers that wreck your suits, but you get what you pay for i guess. Long winded and boring, but i had to give props to this book; i can't say i learned anything useful from the new flusser book, despite actually reading it.
Hi everyone, thanks to Marc I noticed the interesting discussion about my suits. I was amazed how much some of you folks seem to be interested by rules.
I think bespoke suits are more about individuality than rules. I find my suits pretty classic. Who has said by the way that ticket pockets are not to be worn on town suits (although my tweed suit is not a town suit by English standards although I do wear it in town)?
I travel a lot and I literally move between the worlds of fashion. Italy, London (not England), USA, The Netherlands, Germany, Poland etc. are all very different. I try to wear a style that works everywhere although most people describe my style as very English. My tailor (John Coggin from Savile Row) has always encouraged my to create an indivual suit. German tailors are usually much less liberal, that is why I don't use them (except for one occasion which as disappointing).
P. S. My reaincoat is not a Burberry. It's from Eduard Meier in Munich (www.edmeier.de), my supplier of shoes in recent years. It is made in England though.
Best regards
bernhardgermangentleman
Hallo Herr Roetzel, it is a great pleasure to see you posting here. Your book is the best contemporary reference on style that I've read and keep a copy handy in my own library.
I think individuality always wins over the rules, I completely agree with you.
Viele Grüße.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2007-02-14 01:29:21)
Hi Mr. Roetzel and thank you for responding to my email to introduce yourself to our forum. The Rules Police to which we allude is an inside joke referring to a gaggle of sartorial simpletons on the Internet with rigid limitations on self-expression, and so here, in contrast, your individualism is celebrated. Hope you'll check in again.
I have indeed poured myself a drink, a beer to be precise. You may not be interested in beer but nevertheless I would like to point out that "Tannenzaepfle" from the blackforest is currently my favourite. And everytime my tailor John Coggin visits Germany he enjoys the beer part of the trip very much. John has become a very good friend and fittings have become a very familiar affair. The fittings for my last suit (the light grey glencheck sb suit with one button) took place in my dressing room (first fitting) and his guest room (second fitting). We always take care that the fittings take place before the beer tasting! John usually brings port or malt whiskey in return. Now who can say this about his tailor?
Tommorrow I will drive to Munich because I will interview a gentleman about his shoe collection. This will be part of a story for CAPITAL. The subject is men with huge shoe collections. If anyone knows of someone (in Europe) with a really HUGE shoecollection that lives in beautiful dressing room please let me know. He would have to agree to be photographed for the magazine.
P. S. From my experience with tailoring I would never agree to having a suit or anything else that claims to be "bespoke" or "custom made" to be finished without a fitting. Any craftsman who suggests this is either not serious or not interested in quality (or tired of travelling to do fittings or tired of having to wait even longer for his money). Every serious craftsman I know agrees. My wife had a pair of shoes made at Lobb's in London and they said no fitting is required. As I we were too inexperienced then and under the influence of Champagne (Mary Demet from Green's Restaurant) we agreed but it was a mistake. They fitting alright but not perfectlry. Always insist on a fitting unless made-to-measure is okay for you. The only exceptions are shirts as the fabric is usually to thin to make a difference.
What do you think about this?
Mr. Roetzel, it is an honor to read you on this website. Welcome.
Indeed, Mr.Roetzel, it is very lovely to have you along.