http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Js24QFVQg0&mode=related&search=

An Anglo-Modernist take on Paninari from the 80's.

Preppy-esq... -ish!

t.

Taken from a post by Daniele on AAAC ( I thought I'd read it on here, but was obviously mistaken ) I hope it is OK by him to use this, it proves the halfhearted nature of those so-called movements as I see it. e.g. We had the 'Kikkers' in '60s The Hague emulating the British Mods I suppose. Apart from perhaps the odd individual it wasn't that interesting either I think. Also their soundtrack was weaker than that of the originals. No wonder the British subcultures had a more lasting effect since they take their stuff a bit more seriously IMO.

Anyway, here's the quote, will hopefully add some more substantial comments myself during the weekend :

Re: Paninari- I remember we happened to fight them every now and about, typically on Saturdays afternoon, and generally ended up chasing them till their stronghold, a burger-bar in central Milan (hence the name, 'panino' meaning 'sandwich' or 'hamburger'. Flattering, eh?:-)
Paninaro, basicly a Milanese phenomenon, was kinda caricatural preppy wearing some good things in the wrong way, resulting quite vulgar and exxagerated. Example: Lacoste polo shirt (good), burlington argyle socks (good), Levi's 501 (good) BUT...with flower-printed patches on the pockets (bad), heavy Timberland yellow boots (utterly bad) and orange Moncler sleeveless quilted ski windcheater (totally bad:-). Believe me, the outcome was a punch in your eye.
In the same period (early-mid 80s) in Italy took over a more proper preppy look, much closer to co-eval American models, and that was fine. I bought my first pair of Sebago pennies at a now long bygone 'prep' shop that stocked button downs, sack 3/2 blazers, nantucket reds, argyle tops etc. The 'proper' prep look seemed to me (even if wasn't yet fully aware of all the links, the Modern jazz/Ivy League connection, etc) more suitable the Mod 'philosophy' than the streetstyle approach many local soi-disant 'mods' adopted in those days (sneakers, sweatshirts, white socks, narrow jeans and target-patched fishtails parkas also in the hot weather).
Backing to the topic, paninari's outlook watered down and disappeared by the late 80s, but with the add of Italian designer items (mainly Armani at the beginning) contributed to create the basic mainstream teenage look that counts so many followers nowadys (with slight variations season after season). Nothing to be proud of, actually...;-)
As for Casual influences, I wouldn't know... they used to worship Continental and Italian brands like Fila and Ellesse, that here were confined to their original role of sport gear. We had to wait till early 90s, with the Acid Jazz influence, to see tracking suits' tops in clubs and around.
Cheers,
Daniele

A thought:

As London Modernism is to bad late mass Skinhead Style, so Milanese Modernism to Paninari?

t.

Show me the other website that has all this!

I tend to look more at what certain leading figures are/were doing if you will, when we're talking the '80s for instance, that's what I like about the SC, I can see what they were doing with those continental influences in relation to the already existing Stylist tradition in the UK. Of course they had all the time in the world to contemplate matters, seeing as it was part of their career really. Perhaps most ordinary kids are confronted with the realities of everyday life a bit sooner than people like PW and other priorities take over...

I lived through it all myself without taking too much notice either, seeing as I was still living out my R&R dream back then, but had I been a part of it I would have taken it as seriously as my own musical career, or I like to think so anyway.....

The point I'm trying to make is that indeed the further away from Soho there seems to be a lack of that traditional angle which is passed on through working class ranks from generation to generation in the UK. On the continent I don't think the whole class thing is such an issue, resulting in a different take on things. The British are a more traditional kind of people compared to those on the continent I think, as in a certain respect for the past. Oh, and there's a lack of passion outside of the UK as well when it comes to subcultures, music, clothes etc I find.......generally speaking, but still.

Mind you I'm a bit of an Anglophile and aware of the 'grass is greener' attitude I tend to display here.....it is nice though isn't it, all this depth of style and image talk? More to follow....

Alex

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-02-15 09:50:39)

Check this when interested in Paninaro styles on the back of the British football lad during the 80s ( early casual styles also ) :

http://www.designerclothing247.com/Classic-retro-clothing.htm

Edit : hasten to add that some early Casual styles were pretty cool IMO whereas the Paninaro style does nothing for me. The dressed down style prevailing in Scouseland during that time and the mountaineering stuff etc does little for me also. The 90s were interesting again with a return to more classic styles, they'd a better 'vibe' about them anyway far as I'm concerned....

A

Last edited by Alex Roest (2008-09-25 02:55:59)