Yeah, the more British term is DB lapel (as opposed to SB lapels). Angus Cundy calls them winged lapels. However, I have seen the phrase "peaked lapel" in print in mid-century British texts (in fact I was just browsing at a 1950s Tailor & Cutter/London journal today when I encountered that phrase). All American texts consistently use the phrase "peak(ed) lapel" from the earliest Victorian texts I have seen, going right through the 20th C.

I remember a while back when a UK newbie showed up to SF or AAAC and asked a question using the phrase "DB lapel". The Americans were all over him, chastising him for using incorrect terminology until I had to intervene to defend the guy. He replied that "DB lapels" was the only term he had ever heard and that's why he'd used it.

On the other hand I have noted the phrase "Tuxedo" creeping into British English - even amongst SR tailors. I guess they have a lot of American clients. Could it be that the use of the term "peaked lapel" by English tailors represents as similar trans-Atlantic import?

Last edited by Sator (2011-08-06 06:57:20)

I think a "custom tailor" in NYC would have been just as puzzled if you'd walked in and asked for a "bespoke button-one lounge with winged lapels".

It's loose, soft and sloppy only if one wants it that way; "e-cognoscentes" as you define them likely have in mind a stereotypical, I daresay vernacularized, image of the style, that may or may not correspond with the real thing. Have a look at the photos posted by Carpu65, anything sloppy there? Since Naples is one of the last places where you can find tailors that do the job according to the tradition, without using sizing and cutting methods derived from 'confezione' industry, an educated customer can ask them what he wants. Included a crisp anglo-italian style of course.
As for the tailoring diaspora, do you hint that the best italian tailors would be outside Italy? Interesting.
RE Milan tailors, have you any direct experiences to review? I'm a bit disaffectionate with local tailors, but I'd be happy to change my opinion in this case.
Cheers,
D.

Last edited by Daniele (2011-08-09 03:17:45)

I have to disagree with the firs statement.
But "suum cuique", as the Forefathers used to say..

Yeah, it was always gonna be a shit style as soon as the working classes started having suits made there. Fuck em, wait till they find out I've bought some Vicuna.

Please, no more Formby.

And whats with all these bits of rope, ribbon and elastic bands I keep seeing on blokes on clothing forums?