Herr Roetzel, it is an honor for you to join!
Let me be the first to admit that your book changed my life (I know this sounds incredibly corny, but I'm just being honest). I actually have read your book cover to cover, and I keep returning to it. It is a complete delight.
Admittedly, a few things here and there could use a bit of an update - but not many. Very few actually. Even the section on men's cologne hit most of the classics on the head. It's as if you had a bout of ESP while writing the book!
Indeed, it is still the only book in its class and, not to disparage the other giant in this genre, but Flusser's tome, while useful, simply does not compare. I will not even comment on some of the other works cluttering the field, as they appear even more laughable when stacked up against your masterpiece.
Your nuts and bolts approach is geared at men who are ready for the next step, who simply have no use for the crap that the masses of men wear.
And the personality, wit, and experience you brought to the table rounded out the work completely.
Kudos to you! Please don't be a stranger, and be sure to keep the insights coming.
Mr Roetzel,
Your book rocks. I hope you publish many more. Tell us about some good German makers or custom shoe makers.
Haven't read the book, but I will now. To date, I've enjoyed Keers' book the most. Though I know it's somewhat "light", I appreciate his treatment of iconic items.
Mr. Roetzel, your book arrived in the post last week. I am looking forward to spending some time with it.
Thanks for you welcome! It is my pleasure.
Cloths do differ, even when the come from the same mill. If one wanted to replace a pair of trousers two or three years later one would probably see and feel the difference even if one ordered the "identical" cloth. In that respect cloth is like wine.
Lessers make good cloths for tailoring like most of the English weavers. Most of the Italian cloths are intended for manufacturing. Tailors usually complain that especially the lightweights are very difficult to shape. I fear that we will have less and less cloths in the future that are really suitable for tailoring.
I love Paul Keers book. I still remember the day when I found it by chance in the bookshop of the National Portrait Gallery. Still very recommendable.
Mr. Roetzel. I wanted to ask your opinion of hacking pockets, why you chose to get them on at least some of your suits and what this detail means to you.
If I could ask another question - there are some ready to wear brands you don't mention in your book, such as Borrelli and Vacca. Any opinions on these? Generally, are there any ready to wear brands you've discovered since you wrote your book that deserve mention?
Roetzel's section on blazers is particularly good.
Roetzel managed to preserve blazers as legitimate style.
...and show how they can be worked.
The other "literature" out there on men's clothing describes blazers as novelty items.
TV
I have personally met Mr.Roetzel and he is a very pleasant gentleman and with very good taste.
By the way we Germans all love hacking and ticket pockets. Sometimes I think it's very German not English!
Having Bernhard Roetzel appear on this forum is an event worth coming out of lurking for.
I'm a great fan of your book, Mr. Roetzel, and I do hope that you will publish another in english. I was fortunate enough to discover it on a trip to New York, in the book store of the Met. It was my first book about men's clothing, and I have to admit that it sparked quite an obsession. To this day, your book remains my favorite.
John Coggin only carries Lesser books when he travels to Germany. He always says there's no need to look further than Lesser for standard material such as plain blue and grey or pinstripes at whatever weight.
Hi everyone,
sorry for my long absence but I was busy on Saturday with a course that I held for fashion professionals in Düsseldorf.
So let me anser some questions. The car does not belong to me. It is a Mercedes 600 and we used it for the photo shot (a homestory for the Japanese magazine GENTRY).
I like hacking pockets both for the look and the slightly easier access to pockets. But it's mainly the look. German do love them a lot because they think they are English. I recommend hacking pockets on db suits and blazers too. I had see that years ago on an off the rack suit at Crombie's in London.
Many things affect the quality of cloth. Climate, quality of food for sheep etc. Finishing is crucial. I have visited an English finishing company in Huddersfield and it seems to be one of the last areas in modern textile production where feeling is important. Basically finishing means washing the woven cloth in soapy water. Of course the quality of the water is important. That is why one cannot transfer cloth making into any area you want. You need water like have it in Huddersfield or in Biella.
There are many ready to wear companies that I haven't mentioned in my book. Some I did not know then, some I don't know today, some I omitted on purpose, some I forgot... I know that everbody who likes a particular maker opens a book like mine to look it up and will be disappointed if he can't find his darling. So please forgive me. You may have noted that I have added Eduard Meier in the recent edition of my book (page 154).
German makers, shops, tailors? There are some good outfitters, a few decent tailors, no excellent bespoke shirtmakers (let me know if you know a real BESPOKE shirtmaker from Germany who delivers top quality), a few custom shoemakers. Benjamin Klemann is quite good (www.klemann-shoes.com) and a very nice man. He works near Hamburg and visits some German towns regularly.
Tailors are difficult to judge. Some offer very good workmanship but a style that is not everybody's cup of tea. If you like English, Italian or French tailoring than stick with it, you won't find it in Germany. If you are open for a different style than give it a try.
Heinrich's and H. B. Möller in Hannover are good shops, also Möller & Schar in Frankfurt, Ladage & Oelke in Hamburg offers a type of English style that is very German (but not very English), still a nice place. Conrad Hasselbach's Shoes & Garment in Hamburg is more English in the English sense but not very German. Eduard Meier in Munich is a lovely shop owned by a lovely and very knowledgable man and his sister, it offers and interesting mix of Scottish, English, Bavarian and a few Ivy League influences and of course superb footwear.
Any questions I forgot?
Sadly I am obsessed with 'Ivy League' Style...
Anything you might say about the influence of this style in Germany would interest me greatly.
Thank you -
David
Mr.Roetzel,
Have you had any experiences with Zum Jockey Club in Vienna?
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2007-02-22 18:58:56)
Mr. John Coggin is making me a double breasted suit in plain navy blue with slanted pockets and pink sapphire lining. I just can't wait for the first fitting.