Graydon Carter is Manton, right?

I think that pasrt of it is that the very crusty olduns retired and then they lost Thomas Mahon (who took Per Anderson's shears with him) and they just don't have the top notch staff anymore. They rest on their laurels, for the time being but the film people (whatever they think they know) still go there and the Rowland family can easily bankroll the place anyway so it chunters on, turning out droop.

Remembering always that HM The Queen is laughed at and called 'Brenda' behind her back by the true English aristocracy.

Very middle class.

The funniest A&S thread was one on Style Forum. Manton posted pictures of his A&S sports coat in a London Lounge Cloth Club tweed to prove the A&S "haters" wrong. The coat was awful - poorly cut and tailored. Manton eventually agreed that there were serious faults and tried to get A&S to put it right. IIRC Hitchcock snr told him where to go and Manton joined the ranks of the haters.

Another A&S iGent disaster was the awful suit that was made for Simon "Freebie" Crompton. It was a boxy pile of crap but Cromps was obliged to pose in it (with the young apprentices who made it) on the Savile Row "sheep grazing" day. Tom Mahon and Hitchcock jnr (ironically) are the main beneficiaries of the A&S decline.

Junior, why don't you post some pics what you regard as good fit?

Typical 'sloppy' A&S coat. Their DB seem to be better than their SB if that's any consolation.

Colour is a bit bright, Linen?