A touch of the Peter Moss, perhaps, in their sharpness?
It seems pretty clear that the best of 'mod' lies back in the period - when, 1957-60? - the time when our JS was travelling to the South of France to hear jazz and Vespas were zipping around Soho. But what about the teddy boy-modernist crossover phase, as alluded to rather nicely by Elms? Conjures up pleasing images of Roger Mayne's photography, Colin Macs' observations on the scene, coffee and milk bars; some mixing - which even happened in this little town - of American rock and roll (maybe more Cochran and Vincent than Presley) with Dankworth and Hayes, Brubeck and Chet - and the clothes, altering from Eton Clubmen to the Italian look - the winklepicker? Not strictly Ivy, I grant you, more classic Americana/continental - but fascinating to many of us. There's an old boy living here who happened to be in the cafe round the corner where I live (now a travel agent) run by Suzy Kendall, and where he heard the news come over the radio Eddie Cochran had been killed. The old boy talks of raised seems, and they seem to have been, more or less, teds who dug jazz and rock and roll. But - and here's the rub - Ivy means (and meant) nothing to him, anymore than it does to the original skinheads around here. They just haven't a clue what I'm talking about. More to it than meets the eye, I'm thinking. London had Austins, Davids and Gee, followed by Clothesville and the Ivy shop, but the old boy and his mates went to the local tailors. Maybe Liverpool and other ports had a totally different look to here in the Midlands, and different again to London - and even parts of London. Skinheads around London circa 68-69 didn't all look alike, did they?
I'm thinking perhaps only after the revival period, so early 80s, a somewhat growing interest in the IL style was developing outside of London, too. i.e. Via those individuals that wanted to find out about the roots of Modernism. Again I'd say numbers must have been relatively small, pockets rather than crews in more than one respect, so to speak....
John Simon tells us that the The Ivy Shop was originally opened in 66 to cater for young professionals, ad guys, commercial artists etc. and got a big surprise when be found the shop was full up with young skinheads a couple of years later.
But not as surprised as Charlie Davidson must have been when, in the early 50’s, he found his WASPy Andover Shop full of Black Jazz Musicians. Remember that racial segregation was still in place in many States and this was ten years or more, before Martin Luther King.
RH
The Queen Mary was the Transatlantic liner that had an orchestra lead by Geraldo. Nicknamed "Geraldo's Navy" that used to feature some great musicians like Ronnie Scott, Pete King, Johnny Dankworth, Joe Harriot, Bill le Sage and many more. They earnt some cash, got to visit the best Jazz Clubs in the World, when Bebop was kicking off. Bought records and clothes that were rarely available in the UK.
Ronnie Scott was a very snappy dresser and falls into the early Modernist mould.
RH
There are great stories about Ronnie arriving home with twenty shirts a go.
From the BBC:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/britishstylegenius/content/21871.shtml
^ Mr. Kirven & Mr. Hewitt recall two very different times & aspects of all this.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/britishstylegenius/content/21868.shtml
Ronnie Scott did that sartorial change from the Cary Grant style suit with the chalk stripe and big lapels to a more Ivy/continental look - maybe like you see Jimmy Guiffre and combo in JOASD.
Spot on - The 'Cunard Yanks' did the same thing too from what I can see.
It was all about having the latest thing - When Ivy was hip they wore Ivy, before that they wore something with a lot more shoulder.
Post Ivy they moved on again.
Jim, what kind of style was it the Empire Windrush guys brought over with them? Zoot suits? Check the pictures of the early arrivals against the Roger Mayne photographs in the mid-50s: stingy brim hats, sleeveless pullovers, trousers worn high up the leg - far less exotic, far more functional. The West Indians always had that keen sense of style.
A bump because I'm thinking about Mr. Gibson Gardens today -
We share very different backgrounds, which met up on Richmond Hill and Russell Street...
... And then there's the way in which we both moved on outwards from there into the wider world: Italy for GG, One or two streets in Paris for me.
Same impulse from different directions given focus by John Simons to go on to explore further.
Ivy is the core of it for us both. But then we kept on looking...
Last edited by Russell_Street (2010-05-23 04:30:03)
Richmond Hill...
Ronnie Scotts...
Rodex...
Fruit of The Loom underwear...
Well worth digging this one out.
To my way of thinking, there was more excitement when guys like Richmond Hill were posting. Names like his were what drew me onto here in the first place. This thread is great because of the many ripples it creates, and is essential 'London Ivy' stuff: Soho the destination for, basically, lovers of black music and east coast style whether they were US military or hip kids lapping it all up. Sadly, now only memories.
What's contemporary?
Keeping the OLD tradition going.
Richmond Hill is still posting here. He's often on FB, too....
Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2011-08-29 18:05:49)
The cup of coffee or the glass of wine?
Vote now !
Coffee for now...
Ask me later about the wine, please!