I see that Duchamp have just announced that their flagship store in Regent Street is closing/closed? No new address yet, but Marc informs us its business as usual on the internet shop in his open letter.
Looks doomed to me. Indeed, the new look was a desperate attempt to find a demographic of a clientele with disposable income to spend on cufflinks and the like. It's going, it's going, gone.
I wager there's trouble ahead, anyone got access to D&B reports?
I bought some of their cufflinks a couple of years ago, when I briefly flirted with my own iGent fixation, but it only lasted about 15 months. Then one day, I'm typing an email at my desk and the steady chunky-chink of the cufflinks on the keyboard and the inevitable damage and scratches on them made me realise that this was a style that was going to be defeated by function and everyday reality.
The shirts and ties I would never touch with a barge pole, 'orrible garrish things. I think Etro it in its early days when they were focused on a William Blake Autumnal palate did it much better. Although, I though the new tweeds and the raincoats from Duchamp were a move in the right direction. That posting by Marc on the rap and pop stars was the death knell for me, it signified the clutching for a client base, anyone, anywhere, lets try the kids!
A couple of years ago, and maybe even now, Elvis Costello seemed to sporting the Duchamp look. And it worked for him.
The problem their look has, outside of a few select industries its not going to be accepted as business attire. There's no way I could turn up for a meeting with one my clients in a jacquard shirt and peacock tie not to mention some of their jackets and clinch the deal or be accepted. It just isn't going to work.
Their demographic is probably too limited to permit rapid expansion beyond media luvvies and the few industries were rampant individualism and eccentricity is seen as a valuable commodity. And in saying that, a lot of creative industrial artists and the like, are satisfied with a white button-down, they let their work do the creative talking.
Indeed, I was exaggerating somewhat, some of the ties, yes. But most of the shirts are not business in my opinion and yet, that's how up until very recently, they marketed their products, at least the jackets and some of the shirts as suitable for work. Which in conservative industries they are not.
I have boring ties and fun ties (the latter including several Georgia Tech ties, a history of Mickey Mouse, my old high-school tie and one with shamrocks)
I figure the rest of my get-up is sober enough that a silly tie now and then cannot hurt.
I'm sorry to hear Duchamp might be in trouble. I think it is partly a consequence of their marketing - too many images of "Duchamp men" dressed head to toe in the stuff, and together it's really too much. A lot of men obviously can't isolate the individual items and use their imagination to picture how they might compliment more traditional designs.
I like what Penrose is doing. I noticed they were stocked in Selfridges last time I was in London and I bought a pocketsquare which I often wear with a pair of Duchamp cufflinks.
Last edited by Bishop of Briggs (2011-09-26 04:35:31)
Last edited by Bishop of Briggs (2011-10-15 13:02:35)