You are not logged in.

#1 2007-02-21 04:31:14

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

For discussion's sake this one really, but comments from those with a lot more in-depth info than myself would be welcome, so here goes :

Of course I entered this thing via a Mod angle and Chris H has already spoken his mind on a few subjects via another forum re- the London Mod-Ivy connection in the early '60s ( think Charlie Watts, Eric Clapton et al ), but to my mind there still seems to be a bit of a discrepancy when it comes to slimfitting as opposed to more loose Ivy League dress.

From what I understand the looser approach as pictured e.g. in the "Musings" thread is very basic and sporty in a sense, but also very much the undergraduate take on things if you will...... when I dabbled with this very take myself some years ago BTW I found that it made me 'look older' so I must have done something wrong apparently.....? With hindsight I can think of a thing or two myself, but that aside. I do like to experiment as some may know.....

My first impression of The Look however was that of a slim silhouetted style, even described in some pieces I read as 'cramped' or 'ill-fitting', as in the minimal Cool Jazzers approach..... perhaps that one could be seen as a stage presence sort of thing that suited the early London Stylists for example....

Now I can read in-between the lines needless to say and I'm inclined to mix and match myself anyway, but still I'd appreciate some comments that would shed some more light on the subject at hand. Thanks a lot in advance, it's been a long time since I started a fresh topic like this on any forum, so I'm looking forward to what some of you gents will have to say.

Alex

P.S. I found it helpful in this vein what was being said about the sack suit and how it could still be fitted.

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-02-21 04:35:46)

 

#2 2007-02-21 05:07:33

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

I think the 'silhouette' of The Look has been in a constant state of flux.
It's been a very fitted look or a more loosely cut one depending on what point of history you're looking at.

Many of the college boys we see in old photos could be wearing hand-me-downs from older brothers too.
I've a thread on GI style I'll try to find & bump for you Alex which may be of interest in the way The Look has been worn.

Good thread. Good topic.
It leads into what The Look is all about - Is it cool and smart or is it scruffy and down-at-heel?

And the answer is.... Both!

t.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#3 2007-02-21 05:43:19

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

 

#4 2007-02-21 08:18:16

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

I think you've hit on the great thing with Ivy League - The style was so many different aspects and differences in emphasis that can move the look from Modernist to Traditionalist and still fit in youthful Preppy and sussed Skinhead.
I've got room for it all when done well.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#5 2007-02-21 09:16:13

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

What about Kevin Rowland's take on The Look on this album ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dont-Stand-Dexys-Midnight-Runners/dp/B000083GOA/sr=1-3/qid=1172073538/ref=sr_1_3/026-3178413-8106022?ie=UTF8&s=music

He did speak about "the great lost look" ( re-Peanut ) in "The Look" ( the book ) in a passionate way. Some might say it was merely a commercial move he made to sell his album, but I found it interesting seeing as he seemed to know his stuff as for his essay on Skins. Mind you I wasn't really that sure when I first checked the booklet, if the outfits you see in the link above indeed had an edge, but it was done well within a certain context I suppose...... too squeaky clean perhaps.....? Certainly no 'Hard Dandies' IMO anyway ;-)

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-02-22 02:38:24)

 

#6 2007-02-21 10:30:45

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

I don't know how chatty KR is - I suspect not too much - But I'd love to know more about his slant on all this.
He was great in Mr Gorman's 'The Look' & Gorman's sleeve notes to 'The Best of DMR' are of interest too. KR seems to really open up to him.

The 'squeaky clean' thing interests me no end because it's so subversive. I used to try to play with that too. It's not 'Hard Dandy' as you say, but more to do with Style Warfare (!) - Taking a square look & making it hip for those ITK, but ONLY for those ITK.
It's an aspect of The Look that has fed into my 'living a double life' fantasies forever!
When you're an accountant you have to get your jollies somehow... wink

t.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#7 2007-02-21 15:04:40

Chris_H
Ivy Original
From: Watford
Posts: 1669

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?


https://www.facebook.com/groups/hardyandjohnson/

 

#8 2007-02-22 00:53:42

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Good point, Chris.
The wardrobes for certain films - Love with the Proper Stranger, Breakfast at Sir Winston Churchills Flem spoon.'s, Sweet Bird of Youth, etc., all the usual ones - were big influences on me as I first tried to find out about Ivy League style in London.
99% of my inspiration was from Film/TV/LP covers/Magazines. Only 1% would have been from seeing Americans around town back then. Later when I was old enough to get into clubs the balance changed, but not very much.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#9 2007-02-22 02:58:12

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Thanks for the reply Chris, more than a guess I'd say re-mixing and matching, but stressing the fact that a big part of the influence came through films is an important one I think.

When I was dabbling with preppy I liked the subversive element at first, but that was more to do with my Punk background if you see what I mean......people were shocked by my new image which was amusing, but that sort of fun can only last for so long so it was back to seriousness after a spell ;-)

As for being playful with the Look I find TSC did a much better job with their characteristic British slant on things, continental influences and all that. At the end of the day that suits me better also. As a matter of fact I'm planning to use some Ivy influences again for this Spring/Summer.
I had a nice 'throw on jacket' in mind among other things and FNB has been really helpful so far. I've even rented some films with Steve McQueen to get the feeling just right, "Point Blank" was another one albeit a less inspiring one sartorially.....cheers anyway,

Alex

 

#10 2007-02-22 03:41:14

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

 

#11 2007-02-22 06:16:08

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#12 2007-02-22 06:45:55

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Good post David, enjoyed that.....so would you say Preppy differs  from Ivy in the same way that e.g. Mod differs from Modernist ? It's getting hectic at work as usual on Thursdays, but will PM you with some questions that are a bit off topic within a few days.....

Oh, some more filmtips like the ones you mentioned earlier in this thread would be nice for a start though......TIA,

Alex

 

#13 2007-02-22 07:22:01

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-02-23 04:59:24)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#14 2007-02-22 07:57:23

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Thanks a lot. Might as well bring this one forward because somebody else may know the answer straight away :

What's the title of the accompanying track ( and who's it from really ) to the "Fighting Back" scene in "The Thomas Crown Affair" ( as in the DVD version, saw it the other day and this track blew me away. Starting to buy more jazz CD's of late anyhow btw ).......?

Alex

 

#15 2007-02-22 17:17:16

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

For me, I've always had a negative association with the word "preppy", having grown up during its height in the mid 80s.  I've always thought of preppy as being a more manufactured image whereas "ivy-style" I've always thought of having a cultural root (probably why "trad" and classism sometimes go hand in hand).  Ironically, though I've disliked "preppy", it was more for the everyman, whereas "ivy" wasn't....if it weren't for the British re-interpretation of "ivy style" and sending that back to the states, a fella like me would never have found any interest in it.

This is a good thread, as I've felt the same thing as Alex.  Head to toe in authentic ivy gear makes me feel like an old man, even tho that style was originally for a younger set.  Maybe it's because old fogeys have redefined the mental image of "traditional ivy style", but regardless, I still can't get past the image of an old guy when I think of khakis, tweed jackets, and loafers being worn together.  I guess I'm a "spot ivy style" appreciator, where one or two pieces invoke the ivy style, but not head to toe in it.  and never loose fitting, I feel uncomfortable in loosely fitted clothes.

 

#16 2007-02-23 02:04:22

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-02-23 02:14:16)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#17 2007-02-23 03:35:51

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Thanks again for the replies lads..... basically I think the pure Ivy League style is too conservative for me, if that would be a fair way to put it. Also I'm with Jason in that I like The Look a lot when done to the nines on another person who wears it with pride and passion alike....

What I'd very much like to is to discuss this thing over drinks seeing as I'm not the most rapid of typists and tend to take my time before posting.....

I'm definitely in the mood to put a lot of effort in taking the next step David was referring to. That's what I'm all about sartorially speaking of course, but in order to do it right I should probably visit the Smoke and talk through the finesses with those ITK....

I'm scanning the shops already as for suitable stuff which I always enjoy and if I think I have a result I'll be willing to discuss it on-line naturally.

I've already posted about an outfit including a waisted, herringbone tweedjacket, turtleneck, straightlegged classic HL jeans and chukkaboots which I did with all of this in the back of my mind. Funny thing is that Jason called it Mod which I appreciated only because it was him that said it. One thing any Stylist would dislike is being sussed by someone not ITK ( as it implies failure )....

Anyway, enjoying this a lot and wish some more people would join in. Updating the Look is the most fascinating thing I can think of when it comes to discussing clothes.

Alex

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-02-23 03:37:11)

 

#18 2007-02-23 05:11:00

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#19 2007-02-23 07:37:52

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

 

#20 2007-02-23 07:46:56

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

 

#21 2007-02-23 07:54:23

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Negative is fine.
You see an 'Allen' future for the style?


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#22 2007-02-23 08:00:09

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

 

#23 2007-02-23 10:38:29

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

That's very well spotted. Are they re-positioning themselves do you think? And, if so, why?


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#24 2007-02-23 11:06:46

stylestudent
Member
From: michigan
Posts: 205

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

I suspect that the currency imbalance prevents them from marking up British goods to the extent necessary to maintain profits. The CCC Southwick blazer is sold at $800+. Here's a Southwick blazer from another retailer at $500 and suits at $695: http://ecom1.bermanbasics.com/berman/men_southwick.html

Regards,

Steven

Last edited by stylestudent (2007-02-24 06:22:15)

 

#25 2007-02-24 04:20:47

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Discrepancy within Ivy League ?

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-02-24 04:30:53)

 

Board footer

Powered by PunBB
© Copyright 2002–2008 Rickard Andersson