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#76 2007-01-24 20:04:02
- bull
- Member
- Posts: 321
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
Pleats definitely provide room to sit. Flat front trousers generally require...um...."picking a side" (for lack of a better way to put it), and that can get uncomfy by the end of the day LOL...
Cheers.
#77 2007-01-24 20:08:20
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#78 2007-01-24 20:51:45
- bull
- Member
- Posts: 321
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
Not me. I generally pick the right in flat front front trousers but wouldn't be caught dead voting that way.
My father likes to say, "I'd vote for Satan over a Republican." I'm not quite there, but close!
As for braces and flat front trousers, definitely try it. It definitely works. Plus if you go for thick-rimmed glasses, cardigans, and open-neck shirts with large collars - you can go for the Chicago Jewish gangsta look, LOL. Don't know how they do it in New York, but the Jewish gangsta look is very common here, particularly at Manny's Deli and of course the Standard Club for lunch.
(Hope this doesn't get swept up by the FNB version of the Malinda goddess and thrown into the FNB equivalent of the "Interchange" 
- there's a reason people like this MB :0 :0
Cheers.
#79 2007-02-21 00:07:07
- bernhardgermangentleman
- New member
- Posts: 9
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
Thanks for the pictures. Beautiful workmanship as far as I can tell by pictures in that size. But I agree with Mr Bull. It's all very nice until we see the suits on you. I don't want to say that I have any doubts that they fit beautifully but for me that is the most important thing. So please put them on.
The back without centre seam is a strange thing. How does he manage the hollow in the back?
#80 2007-02-21 00:57:30
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#81 2007-02-21 10:37:55
- doc_muller
- Member
- Posts: 70
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
Marc,
Just read this thread and all the jackets and shirts are very beautiful.
May I ask what kind of cut on jacket you prefer?
#82 2007-02-21 10:57:27
- doc_muller
- Member
- Posts: 70
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
Marc,
I just looked carefully at your seersucker pants photo and found the adjuster and pockets are all machine sewn if I'm not wrong. In my humble opinion that's not acceptable if the pants are bespoke.
#83 2007-02-21 11:33:17
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6433
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#84 2007-02-21 12:14:47
- stylestudent
- Member
- From: michigan
- Posts: 205
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
From the odd trouser ready-to-wear department. The Oxxford flannels I'm wearing today don't have hand-sewn pockets. The Borrelli twills worn yesterday did have hand-sewn pockets. I'm not losing that much sleep but I don't begrudge others their concerns.
Regards,
Steven
#85 2007-02-21 16:32:24
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#87 2007-02-21 16:57:31
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#88 2007-02-21 17:05:21
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#90 2007-02-21 20:10:57
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#92 2007-02-21 20:26:02
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#93 2007-02-21 21:26:18
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
Quick story of my brief fling with decorative hand-stitching. A few years ago, I had a blue blazer made, with a very modest, understated amount of such stitching, which is my tailor's preference. While wearing it one day, I saw an exceptionally well-dessed Italian gentleman whose own jacket was replete with stitching, but what caught my eye, in particular, was stitching around the edge of the sleeve of the coat near the buttons. Fascinated, I returned to my tailor and, against his best wishes, pressed him to duplicate the same hand stitches around the edge of the sleeves. He warned me the coat would look too "Kiton" and that neither he nor I would like it. LOL. Bull-headed person that I am, I pressured him for the stitches and after a couple weeks, I became disenchanted with the new stitches and returned to my tailor, asking him to remove them. For me, less is more. I deserved for him to say, "I told you so," but he's too much of a gentleman. So, in the end, it's a matter of personal taste.
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2007-02-21 21:27:51)
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#94 2007-02-22 04:02:37
- doc_muller
- Member
- Posts: 70
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
Marc,
My understanding about the very top end bespoke pants is that only the straight side seams, the back sit seam, the back darts and the zip fly should be machine sewn. Some corner cutting tailors also have machine sewn in pockets but all elses then must be done by hand, particularly those outside appearance stitching across the fly front, pocket edges, and side adjusters, unless of course request otherwise by customers.
As for durability, a good old dedicated tailor once told me there's good hand stitch work and there's bad hand stitch work and in fact good hand stitch wear and tear better than even good machine made work.
#95 2007-02-22 05:03:45
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#96 2007-02-22 06:51:21
- doc_muller
- Member
- Posts: 70
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
Marc,
Does your tailor normally put hand stitch on the edges of the vents at the back of the jackets?
#97 2007-02-22 17:24:59
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#99 2007-02-22 18:46:25
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#100 2007-02-22 19:18:42
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: Raphael, Corvato.
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde