Ok lets think late 50's very, early 60's and the looks in those New Wave films clearly not Ivy a lot of the time, or natural shoulders, Trad English leaning? Certainly not Italian close tailoring. What were Malle's, JPG, and JPM's protagonists wearing?
Shoulders were certainly bigger. A Cod 'American' look from the Noir films?
This is what I was kind of thinking, but there really was a bit of a UK feel to some of them to, I'll hunt some photos down, definitely a huge American influence in JPM's 50's films.
I'm not sure if this is from Doulos but after Serge Reggiani's character gets shot, he is wearing the coolest looking top I've ever seen.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20385372@N02/1984728297/
Last edited by Oo Bop Sh'bam (2011-09-29 14:17:50)
There seems to be a distinct period between the wide-shouldered 50s suits and the more Italian carnaby-inspired look. A lot of boxy 3 button tweed suits with very rounded shoulders. ^ Maurice Ronet was always well turned out, great suits in Feu Follet and very American button down and high rise chino in Chabrol's La Femme Infidele. Also in Rivette's Paris Nous Appartient there's an "American" writer who is dressed in full-on ivy league - button downs, buckle back chino and hooked vented linen jackets. That was 1961, the Minets were still a couple of years away non? Or maybe not? je n'en sais rien!
Last edited by Guy The Bore (2011-09-29 14:43:14)
Yeah 64 I think, but I suppose that's when they got a name, no doubt the Modernist influence kicked in world-wide and in France with Miles and co. taking the look abroad. I agree though the boxy tweed seem to be in heavy supply round 1960.
There's a good scene in one film, i forget which, maybe Godard's 'Deux ou Trois choses que Je sais d'elle' or 'Week End', shot in a clothes shop and it's full of heathery shetland crew necks and pastel tone button downs, prime Minetwear (though i think it's actually a women's shop). ^ Good original post though, i've always been attracted to that early 60s french look. It's quite hard to pin down but it's uniquely French.
The chapter on the Mins in that fat book down in John's basement is worth a flip through, Guy. The cult existed for a while before the name was coined with their Ivy obsession being at a peak maybe in '62.
"Pickpocket" seems to pay some attention to costume.
I'm not actually convinced that's the best photo ever, but I am eager to undertsand why, so I can appreciate why it is.
Just consider it for yourself Hepcat you don't have to agree. The gangster cool allure is not normally one to win me over, but to me that photo sums up all that is cool about the FN genre. Yeah it fantastical, and make believe, and no one is really about to get harmed, but it is just a fucking cool photo to me. Tarantino would've cut off his right arm to get such a cool looking still from one of his films.
Last edited by Oo Bop Sh'bam (2011-09-30 12:36:04)
Put a hat on him and it might be from "The Pink Panther".
All a part of my Ivy archives !
Best -
Jim
this one, eh?
http://www.amazon.de/History-Mens-Fashion-Farid-Chenoune/dp/2080135368
damn expensive!
Check it on US & UK Amazon & really watch the prices soar !
Actually - Bugger! Prices have dropped!
The were waaay up there once. So was 'Jocks & Nerds'.
Supply & demand, I guess...
... but still...
I'll go check at the JS basement when I make it there.
Hopefully before my thesis is done....
Or can somebody send me a scan, at least of the Minet chapter, and everything on Ivy and "Continental Drift"... Pleeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaase!!!