At least according The Telegraph, and as an ex-loyal customer throughout the '90's I hope it's true:
http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG8972667/Mencyclopaedia-Gieves-and-Hawkes.html
I would not get too excited yet. That piece was typical PR bullshit that bears no resemblance to reality. G&H has, over the last year, retrenched with the concessions (with the exception of Selfridge's) being shut down. The range in Savile Row was reduced substantially following the City clearout (90% discount) at the beginning of the year.
"Designers", however, still rule despite the PR puff. The RTW blocks were altered by an Italian idiot with no understanding of the physical differences between Italian and British men. The snooty salespeople have been reduced to begging customers to try a size up and then pay for alterations.
Of course, virtually nothing (apart from Carreducker shoes) in Number One is made in the UK. Take a look on the online store. Everything is half-price because they can't shift the over-priced, badly-tailored, foreign-made tat. G&H is no longer British and is a sick parody of its former self, a plaything of its property billionaire owner. The sooner it goes bust, the better.
Edited to add that I am wearing G&H twill trousers and sports jacket today.
Last edited by Bishop of Briggs (2011-12-25 05:23:39)
And even the DT thinks that it is solar topee instead of sola topee/topi. Shucks.
Anyone wanting a bit of that Gieves and Hawkes tradition should look no further than Gillian Long. A lovely lass who trained on the Row, and often visits London for appointments (M2M and Bespoke).
http://www.cockofthewalkbespoke.co.uk/gillian-long
Last edited by Oo Bop Sh'bam (2011-12-26 01:27:28)
Aye, that's the girl!
Working at Gieves with some of those "snooty" sales people in the late 90s taught me everything I needed to know to have a great career in luxury retail and tailoring.
Those people in my opinion were actually the companies best asset.
Last edited by meister (2011-12-27 16:58:58)
Heppie, re the demographic not existing, sometimes the thing to do is to create demand. Not easy. Or take a crudely formed pen5t up demand and articulate it in a look or style.
My point above about G&H staff relates to those who work or worked in the main sales area, i.e. selling RTW suits and coats. Even when wearing a G&H sports coat and twill trousers, the staff try to make you feel as if you don't belong in the store. You can't even look at a coat without a hauty interruption.
After the takeover, G&H employed pretty Eastern European women to work in the front part of the store. Their knowledge of tailoring or even RTW appears to be close to zero. I asked if a sports coat was fused or half-canvassed and got a blank look back. I will make a rare trip into London this week and report back on whether there has been an improvement in recent months.
I finally made it into St James's and Savile Row yesterday. Number One is much improved and the Eastern European totty was nowhere to be seen. The young Englishman who served me was very polite and helpful. He agreed that G&H had big block problems last year which have now been addressed.
The assistant showed me some sports jackets that he said had been brought in specially for the sale. The tags indicated that they were made by Bladen, a brand of Wensum and part of the same group. The price had been reduced from £600 to £420. A quick search on the internet this morning found Bladen jackets with the same or very similar designs for £300 to £350, e.g. A Hume of Kelso. Gieves & Hawkes must think that their customers are naive or stupid.
How much do they charge for a bespoke suit?
Their head cutter is leaving. An extremely self-indulgent friend has just had her make an opera cloak (!) Apparently, he does actually wear it to the opera. Goodness knows what people make of it. I've decided that, next time I telephone him at his club (he otherwise lives on a converted narrow boat), I shall ask for Count Dacul